69442C

Allan, I placed an order with Fusick last week and received my order within 2 days of placing it. They are prompt and I've been pleased overall with their service. But I too think their shipping prices are getting out of hand. Same $3 handling and insurance on my bill and then the shipping is also marked as shipping and handling, just like you mentioned. I've noticed this for quite some time as it's been on past orders too.

The kicker....my order from Fusick arrived in a recycled OPGI box full of crumpled newspapers. If it were me running that place, I sure wouldn't be advertising for my competition by recycling competitors boxes and using it to ship my orders. But it did say Fusick on the label.
Brian

Allan R

Jeepers, by comparison dealing with ILT was incredibly pleasant. Everything I ordered arrived in a custom ILT box and well packed. All the small parts were bunched together into one heat sealed plastic pouch. The brake hoses are period correct = I need to borrow some crimpers for those special clamps.

The difference in shipping from ILT? Not only is everything professionally packed and boxed with their corporate identity, they will FLAT RATE ship as much as I can order into ONE box for the ONE FLAT FEE. Chuck even threw in a current ILT catalogue.

I wish they had more stuff available - I'd buy more from them.

No doubt about whose product this is. The corporate name all over the box. The ends were held together with those huge staples that are impossible to remove....my guard cat sniffed it and meowed approval to open it. Hmm, would make a great scratching post when I'm done with it!


I can hardly wait to play with the goodies inside. The PS hoses have the proper crimp clamps. Not sure why they didn't come clamped on the one end though. The PS hoses are double priced in their catalogue. If you mention that you saw them on the picture catalogue instead of the written catalogue, they will give you the lower price 55.00 vs 65.00; you just have to say something. Chuck took my order - dealt with him before. Total professional. Very patient and even helped answer some questions on the spot.


Can you say 'Bolloxed'? maybe even 'Screw up'? Yup, I ordered the wrong dang fuel sender. Tony......good thing ya live in Montreal bud. I'm thinking I can just crimp the 1/4" line and put a rubber plug on the end. Should work as good as the sender with just one tube. Duhhhh, I feel so bad. Not worth ordering another one - I'd just have to pay shipping both ways to return this and get another. If anyone needs one of these right away LMK. I paid 55 for it. If I can unload it fast, I'll just order the right one from Chuck.


I noticed the ground wire is soldered on 'opposite direction' of the OEM and the ground wire is about 3" shorter.

oldcutlass

Allan your up to some serious work there!

oldzzy

My cat would use that as a tunnel!

Allan R

Just don't know when to quit. Momma always said life is like a box of choklits - never know what you'll get inside....Move out Forrest, I don't need dumbass lessons!

I was looking at the stock market today and the $C is trading at .026 over the $US. So I talked to the Mrs. and said it would never really be a better time to order stuff that I can use later. She agreed - no argument at all. Guess which company is going to get a big order from me probably tomorrow or Thursday? Hint: it rhymes with Lie Bell Me. Gonna fill one of them boxes with all the stuff I can. That would be great to take advantage of shipping heavy stuff like brake drums....

Most shipping to Canada from Rock Auto sucks. They don't combine shipping and charge by parcel weight AND dimensions. Ok, I've been a little upset with shipping and customs today, can you tell??

Great idea! Ever notice how cats will always jump into a box even if it's the wrong size?? My fat cat will still try to get into a box that is obviously too small. Her butt sticks out the end of the box, but she thinks she's all in Why spend money on cat toys when all you need is a cardboard box and a string? Oh, laser pointers drive them nuts too!

ah64pilot

Allan, if I lived close to you I would bring over a 6 pack of beer and crack one open for ya. Sorry you had a bad experience! But you are making progress Keep it up!

jensenracing77

i think inline tube and Fusick are both great but i also find Fusicks shipping a little high even living in the USA. i had a real large order drop shipped here from inline tube for a chassis i was working on for a guy. i was very pleased with there quality of parts.

oldsguybry

So Allen , what part of the sending unit has to do with the gas guage ? I was wondering because I'm tired of my Buick's gas guage always stuck on 1/4 tank .... or does it have nothing to do with that ?

Tony72Cutlass'S'

That little half moon in the middle of the unit is actually a potentiometer that goes between something like 90 (E) and infinite ohms (F).

Allan R

I'm finding that a fair number of folks voicing the same observations. If ILT had the rubber parts I wanted, I would have bought everything from them just based on the great customer service I've received from them on my last 3 orders.

It's the potentiometer Tony mentioned. It is 90 ohms. See the connection with the yellow bushing? That's the part that sends the float info to the gas gage. If your ground isn't properly hooked up, that will peg the gage to past full - ∞ resistance.

On your Buick, it sounds more like the float is stuck. That will give a constant resistance and false reading. I checked O'Reilly's (used 93 Buick Century 3.3??) This is what I got: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...21s%21assembly
Hope it's the right part for your application - check before you buy.

Lady72nRob71

Kinda like how some of us southern folks can entertain ourselves for hours with a sheet of bubble wrap...
Of course it is a bit pricey though. I had to order $200 worth of stuff before I actually got a full sheet.

ah64pilot

But only while wearing a speedo, right Rob?

Allan R

Gee Steve, I think Speedo's look quite attractive even in the full body version


Of course there's always the other version that comes with PFDs.


OK OK, I know what you mean. So I don't embarrass you guys, I cut off the heads so no one will know which one of you is which.

oldsguybry

Thanks , I have the 3.8 (3800) same as the Grand National , except not as fast lol

oldsguybry

Whoa , I sure hope that last photo is not a couple of you guys hanging out lol

Allan R

How hard is it to remove the drive shaft? Not very. Just have to be prepared for a bit o mess.

The first thing I did was index the drive shaft to the differential. These marks are temporary until I can mark them with a drill. I learned that from Brian. I'll be doing the same with some of the other parts coming off.

The 4 yoke bolts are 7/16" and are (not surprising) on there pretty tight. Once they break loose they come out pretty easy. When all the bolts and collars were off the universal is held in there by about 40 years of friction/light rust.



I put a piece of flat iron in between the universal and used it like a pry - nothing. Almost nothing, a small clip fell off from the universal. Not sure what it does or where it goes back. One of the little tabs on the end is missing so that probably contributed to it coming off.


Picked up a hammer and gave the uni a couple of good hits. It came loose. Next I pushed the shaft into the trans about 2" - enough to get the drive shaft loose from the uni. I was surprised at how well the uni worked - no sign of failure here. But I'll prolly replace them for good measure anyway.


Now when I was discussing this with Brian he said there was a chance I could lose some tranny fluid when I pulled the spline out of the tranny. He as RIGHT! Soon as the shaft started coming out the trans fluid started leaking. Good thing I had anticipated this and had a piece of OSB and cardboard + a small plastic container handy. Only lost a little more than a pint.


So now the shaft is out, ready for clean up and rebalance.

Allan R

The factory weights are on both ends of the driveshaft.




Under that coating of crud on the shaft are the markings from the factory. Have to look it up, but IIRC there should be a purple stripe 1" wide about 30" from the front of the shaft. I was surprised how light the shaft actually is.

Next came the brakes from Hell.
The rear drums did NOT want to come off. Even if I had adjusted the star drag they weren't coming off. So I did what any self respecting gearhead would do. Picked up a BFH and whaled on them. That broke them loose enough that I could use a lighter hammer to tap around the edge of the drum to get it off. It took over 20 minutes per side just to get those rotten drums off. Should have seen all the brake dust and crud that dropped out!!
Anyway this is what the inside looked like after 40 years. The wheel cylinders are OEM.

I'M WORRIED that beating on the drums may have damaged the wheel bearings. When I turned the axles it wasn't smooth - felt like a bearing was loose? Can this happen from beating on the drum? (That just sounds like a bad song title)



They are in remarkably good shape


So it didn't take long for them to end up looking like this.
Ready for clean up. BTW that rear drum brake tool is incredibly handy. Bought it off ebay for about 12 bucks



Back in a while, just got called for din din.

Allan R

Now I need to disconnect the e brake cable. Sounds simple enough. The cable fits through the back of the backing plate and is held in place by expansion fingers on the inside of the backing plate. To get that sucker out, you need to compress the 'fingers' and slide it back through the hole. This was not an easy task. Took all of 10 minutes on one side and about 20 on the other. I thought about cutting it and replacing it but it really doesn't look to be in bad shape. It will clean up ok. Just have to detach it from the brake cable clip and pull the whole thing out.


The shocks came out next. Whoever put them in last did a butcher job cross threading the lower nuts. I REALLY HATE the upper shock mount design. 1/2" wrench on top, air ratchet below made short work of them though. I can't imagine how frustrated Tony must have been when he did his car. These ones came out in about 1 minute each.


The shocks (like the front end) were just along for the ride. They had no real damping effect when I pushed and pulled on them. So new shocks will be on the list. With all the changes to this rear end, plus the stuff done to the front last year, this car is going to be TIGHT!


The springs were going to be next out so I took pics of how they were seated.

Allan R

Forgot to mention in the brake teardown. The wheel cylinder will be replaced. It's time. Nice to see it's labled as a 7/8" instead of me having to guess if it was 13/16".


I lowered the differential down so the jack was not holding it anymore. The Left side spring came out with no effort at all. But the right side one needed a pry bar under it to lift it over the lip on the top of the diff. So now both springs are out


Now here's something really nasty. This is what was on the top of the r/s spring. I don't think it had been properly installed when they were last done in 84.


The other side looked ok. I have replacement rubber mounts hidden somewhere in one of my garage drawers....


I'm pretty happy with the ride height on the car so I'll keep these springs. I measured them and they are both exactly the same.

Allan R

After removing the brake hardware, the right side looks like there may be a leaking seal. Prolly I should just rebuild this from the get go and not spend time worrying about 'what ifs'.



Well much as I wanted to get the diff out today it didn't happen. Tomorrow I'll get the upper brake hose, lower control arms and upper control arms and it should be a done deal.

I plan to let Alberta Driveline empty that horrible smelling diff fluid. When they put in the limited slip, they won't be buttoning it up because I will need to take out the axles to get that backing plate off and clean it up. After I'm done cleaning the diff, it will get a nice coat of paint and I'll put in the gear oil after I put that nice W27 finned cover on.

Anyone replaced a vent tube? I'm thinking I MAW do that too since I'm also planning to put a new brake line on the diff too. The good thing is I can see the project stages in my mind. Just hope the weather cooperates for the next 5 or 6 weeks. I really think it will come together fast when the reassembly starts.

oldsguybry

wow , the drums were that hard to come off . sounds like they may have been adjusted to tight perhaps , but now I see you said that the star was loosened all the way and they were still tight . How are the backing plates that the wheel cylinders are sitting in ? check for play . I remember a 78 Buick regal I had that kept blowing wheel cylinders , and it turned out that it was common on those cars because of bad design . I had to rip the whole rear end apart to get the shafts out just to remove the backing plates . That went terrible , the gears were shot from PO doing neutral drops or something . I went to a garage at that point , and they got me a new rear end which turned out they made a mistake and gave me a hurst rear end by mistake . the little 305 had some ***** after that Then the garage called saying they made a mistake and wanted their rear end back , and i said ...... " NOT A CHANCE IN HELL !

Lady72nRob71

Uh, no. I was wearing black soccer shorts that day, so no confusion...

Nope - not even Eric would want to be seen like that!

Mile looked worse, after probably being installed at the factory!

Looks like it to me. If you are replacing the gears, MAW replace the bearings and seals as well. And repaint the whole thing of course.......

hookem horns

Funny, I did not know springs ad shocks had to come out to change a gas tank . Enjoying the thread and wondering if the MAW's include boxed control arms and sway bar?

Allan R

Dane, you obviously haven't met me in person.
Even changing oil on the car to me means cleaning the whole bottom as much as possible and pressure washing the engine bay.

LOL - YES! It's Mandatory to remove springs, shocks, differential and do rear bushings when dropping a gas tank. Why have a little fun when you can have a LOT of fun?? This is a little known FACT similar to the Buffalo theory of Beer on Brain Cells as expostulated by Cliff Claven! Doesnt everyone know that?

Seriously though, this was just on my to do list down the road, and since the tank was out it just seemed logical to go ahead and only have to do all this once. The MAWs DO include a full FE2 suspension: body braces (cleaned up and waiting), boxed control arms, and sway bar. That's back on a previous page.

Glad you're enjoying it!

oldcutlass

Nooooo, I would not be caught in a speedo!

Wow, you have the original Ujoints still in there. You are going to need a propane torch to get those plastic pins out of there.

Those rubber isolators are still available that are on top of your springs.

Beating on the drums did not hurt your bearings, however, it looks like you have an axle seal leaking. Weren't you changeing your gear set any way? You Maw go ahead and pull the axles and redo bearings and seals while your there.

Rob I fit into the catagory on the bubble wrap entertainment!

Allan R

That's exactly what I said when I looked at those uni's too! The still move flawlessly and show no indication of dried out grease or binding roller pins. Would you replace them or just leave them if they're not broken??? I'd really like to know what the clip that was on the rear uni was for.

Got the isolators - no problem there.

Just talked with Alberta Driveline. They are changing the carrier/ring/pinion on Monday. I asked them to leave the axles/backing plates off when finished to make my life easier on the bearings and seals. Also it will be coming back dry so less mess to worry about doing clean up etc. So, does changing out the gear set also include installing new axle seals? If it does, I'll just ask them to give them to me and I'll do that later when the axles go back in.

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Rebuilt differential.

New suspension.

This is what allan's driveway is going to look like once it's all installed.

oldsguybry

Man Tony , that thing has some get up and go . That's awesome !

Highwayman

If the u-joints are still good you just as well run them. That car isn't going to get any miles on it anyway because it spends most of it's life tore up in the garage.

Allan R

Man I wish I had a driveway that long Tony. Gotta resist the urge to pppppooounnd that sucker! You just know there's gotta be SOME experimentation. Can you imagine what that would be like with a 455 and 3:42's? I'd have to buy tires every 3 weeks

Oh ye of little faith.... I do plan to have it drivable by the end of Nov. It's only been 'apart for a little over a year' though. It was diagnosed with MAW syndrome in July of 2011 when the master cylinder cratered on the way to a car show. Since then it's been a constant source of amusement and playtime.

I have a feeling that it's going to work out just fine. So you would keep the OEM uni's? Just out of curiosity, why? Other than they seem to still be in good service. Don't know what the life expectancy is for uni's. Maybe you could offer up some words of wisdom there.

I like to work at my own pace, which is considerably less than a production shop where time is $$$$$$$$. Besides, this is a great learning experience for me.

sammy

Hey Allan
I think that clip on the uni was to hold the caps in place while assembling-nothing worse than those caps falling off.
The clip would go from cap to cap from the backer pinion side.
MTC, replace the seals and I would replace the u joint, just depends if it ever comes out of your garage again

Looks great Allan!

Ted

Allan R

That makes total sense. I'll slip it on in the meantime to keep the caps from falling off. Thx.

Huh? MTC is a new one for me. What's it mean? Seals, bearings and Ujoints were in the plan. Oh Ted....I feel sooooo hurt.....^^^
Don't worry, I'll get it done. But it's still going to stay in the garage waiting for the nice days! Can you imagine what that new rear/suspension would be like in rain/snow??? I'd be driving sideways more than forwards!

Allan R

I should have been working on the car, BUT my wife said "Would you take me to Costco?" I said sure and waited the honorary wifetime 'ready in a minute' thing.....

I also figured that if I went with her we wouldn't spend as much. You know how REAL MEN just get in/out and back at it, right???

So there I was waiting for her to pick some clothes for Graeme and I decided to go get some more work gloves. Dammit! They don't have any so I'll have to get them from Canadian Tire or something. Just as I reached the end of the aisle, this red thing caught my eye. Duh....WHEN did Costco start selling Snap On tools? Crap, they had a gorgeous tool chest and this 'other thing' that I've been looking to buy for a while. New in Box Snap On 20lb air compressor. Couldn't believe it! Most of the 20 pounders I've been looking at were around 450 - 600 bucks. This one is 219.00 (+tax). So for 230.00 it was MINE!!

Got it home, unpacked (read the instructions too BTW) and assembled. Added compressor oil and plugged it in. Shazzam - in less than 3 minutes it was full and shut off! You know the upper and lower control arms aren't going to know what hit them!

That's my old Porter Cable 3 gallon pancake job in the background. A very good little compressor that I've seriously abused during the last year. Has dual outlets that will likely never get used at the same time. Got another 50 ft of new hose in the cabinet just to the left in case I want to try though.



This corner of the garage is my power outlet center - can you tell by all the dang chords?


Well, I think it's time to go see how it works! TTYL

Highwayman

What do you mean the end of November? A couple of weeks ago you said 2 months, that would be the end of October. Now it's pushed out another month? At this rate you'll be snowed in for the winter before you're done!


About those u-joints. If they're still good and have grease, they'll last a long time. Plus it isn't a big deal to drop a driveshaft when the time comes. It isn't like you log a lot of miles either. But you'll end up changing them because they're there. You know you will, so why ask? Besides, I know you want to see how that plastic boils out of the little holes like little plastic worms when you heat it. And you know you're going to want to see how long of a patch you lay down on the asphalt and don't want to do that on a 40 year old joint.

That, and I wanted to mess with you.

oldcutlass

I would replace both the axle bearings and seals, they are done together. And I would definately change the ujoints. They are cheap and easy, hey wait, I know that girl.

Looking good Allan!

oldsguybry

ALRIGHT! Yeah mine was $230 for a 25 gallon Porter cable compressor , and I'm happy as heck with it . Like I said it's a bit weak for blasting , but will rip paint off like nothing ..... BUT my sandblast gun was clogged and that's why it was not working well . NOW it even takes off the heavy rust scale , but takes a few passes to do so . I updated my thread and I'm going to add more later + pics from today . I also took liberty to take photos on what needs to be removed and cleaned in order to have those tools working at their best . It's just that I have been real friken busy working and doing chores , because my .... AHEM , I mean wife found another part time job , and it looks like we will have money now , and even enough extra to pay my debts off now . YAY !



This corner of the garage is my power outlet center - can you tell by all the dang chords?


Well, I think it's time to go see how it works! TTYL[/QUOTE]

oldsguybry

lol sorry , I kinda combined my response mixed in with what you said on accident

OK , I fixed it a little ( I hate Computers grrrrr )

sammy

MTC=My Two Cents

Ted

ah64pilot

Allan, is that compressor made in China? I didn't think you could get Snap-on except for out of a truck. Craftsman started selling in different stores (besides sears) and now the hand tools are being made in China...

I used to buy them because they were made in the USA...now I don't know what to do, I'm OCD with tools so they all have to match, but I don't want to keep buying Chinese Craftsman tools. What's a girl to do?

Allan R

Busted! Well last year it ended up being mid November. I think the target date is still achievable regardless of weather. Besides, the almanac says we're gonna have good weather till Dec this year! Messin wit me is ok! You know I'll take it the right way Ya wanna hop in the car with Clint and drive up to help??

I decided that I'll have Alberta Driveline change the axle bearings when the diff goes in on Monday. Much easier for them and faster too. I'll have them leave the axles out and just button up the cover to keep inside clean. Then I can do the rest at home. Brian (69442C) mentioned this to me also and I'm taking his advice.

No worries Bryan! You no tell, I no tell

Sadly yes it is. But I needed something and the price was right. Much as I wish I could buy something made in Canada or USA, I just don't have that kind of disposable income any more. And what I do have to play with is rapidly getting eaten alive by this car.

HA! You'll love the next post....