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You, Sir, are doing some fantastic work. Hats off to you!
You probably already know this, but just in case. 69 442's don't have the Oldsmobile script emblem on the driver's side lead edge of the hood. Cutlasses and F-85's did, but 442's didn't. At least the two 69 442's I've owned didn't. Didn't want to see you get the hood in primer and then have to go back and weld the holes shut. Keep up the good work!
Yep I welded those up couple weeks ago. This October marks the one year anniversary of this project, today I got 2 coats of epoxy on it. Next I’ll spray 3 coats of high build and start block sanding.
Oh boy! My favorite! Block sand till you think your arms are going to fall off then sand some more. But seriously, it has to be done and then it will look amazing. You're doing great!
Nick,
You are going with the trim tag colors... code 69 Platinum n black gut?
SS1, SS2, poverty caps, Cragar SS...trying to get the visual at the end.
Gotta see this thing in person when its done.
We re taking it back to factory, platinum with black hood stripes and black interior. As for wheels I have 2 sets, 1 set of 14x6 NOS SS1 s with Goodyear Polyglass tires and a set of 14x6 steels with NOS poverty caps with Redline tires. Was planning on using poverty caps at Lansing and Olds National shows. SS1s for local shows.
Quick update I’ve been block sanding since Sunday, should have first round of sanding done this weekend then I’ll start working on working the fill in the low spots. After that 3 more coats of high build then start process all over again. I used PPG Omni epoxy then 3 coats of feather fill and I’m gonna use rage gold for the filler.
Pro tip....mock up the upper stainless trim to make sure it runs down the body straight. It has an arch to it that needs to "flow"
It's the fender-to-door alignment that looks like schzit if it's off. It is a problematic spot and was rarely really nice from the factory. IMO its the toughest area to get right on 68-69s.
Pro tip....mock up the upper stainless trim to make sure it runs down the body straight. It has an arch to it that needs to "flow"
It's the fender-to-door alignment that looks like schzit if it's off. It is a problematic spot and was rarely really nice from the factory. IMO its the toughest area to get right on 68-69s.
Thanks for the tip sir, my passenger side fender does need to move down a fuzz were it lines up with door. I mocked up all the trim a little while back everything lined up pretty nice. I will say that my NOS fenders were tough to get adjusted, more so by the doors to get them to follow the shape of the doors. I’m using paint sticks as blocks. I wood glued 3 sticks together and have them in lengths from 3” to 20”s. I’m also using a 1” dowel rod ab 8” s long for the areas on top of the door and on the hood. Guided the car then blocked it with 80 grit , guided coated again then blocked it with 150 grit. Fixed all the low spots with Rage Gold filler. The plan this weekend is to get a couple of coats of 2k primer on let it sit couple days then block it with 220 grit. My goal is to have it apart and on the rotisserie at the beginning of December. Here’s a couple pics I took before I sanded the last of the low spots
Also I noticed this weekend that my passenger door was a 68 door, I have 2 other 69 passenger doors so I was able to modify my 68 door into a 69 door. I noticed the difference sitting on a stool staring at the car. I do that from time to time to see if anything sticks out that I’m missing. It works for me I’ve caught few things by doing it.
Quick update tonight I put another 2 coats of 2k on and will let it sit till Saturday then block sand with 400 grit, as long as everything sands out good the next step is disassemble car and put it on the rotisserie
I’m actually a union carpenter by trade, but in the process of building this car ultimately I’m gonna be judged by my Oldsmobile peers and I want everything to be as close or a little better then from the factory. I really do enjoy the body work side of it though, there still a few things iron out but it’s getting closer.
Last night I cleaned my inner fenders with some gas then wet sanded them with vinyl cleaner and 800 grit and 1000 grit. Once they dried out I wiped them down with Chemical Guys tire shine here’s a couple before and afters
I got a little bit of progress done over the holidays, the car was completely wet sanded the front end was taken off to prep core support and inner fenders for primer. Along with underside of hood and trunk. Also got the call from machine shop that everything was completed and ready for pick up. This week I’m gonna try to paint the underside of the hood and core support. Getting closer to getting the body on a rotisserie.
Got underneath the hood painted black and core support too,I used GM restoration satin black paint. I like it more than Eastwood chassis black satin. Eastwoods satin still seems to glossy to me. Also got the body separated and getting ready for rotisserie
Another big step this weekend i got the firewall and dash painted, also got this baby on the rotisserie finally. Started to feel like it was taking forever to get to this point. Here’s a few pics let me know what you think.
Another big step this weekend i got the firewall and dash painted, also got this baby on the rotisserie finally. Started to feel like it was taking forever to get to this point. Here’s a few pics let me know what you think.
Great work. Looks allot like what I just did to mine just a few years ago.
I got the underside of the car painted this weekend and primed the trunk. Everything is seam sealed so I’ll paint trunk black this week then clean everything. I have a few things to do on the chassis, brake line and fuel lines. Then body goes on the chassis. It will be at the paint shop the week of February 17.
Was thinking while you have access to spots you will not have access to once you start bolting it together, you may want to think about LPS3 Krown Fluid Film etc.
Under the dash, trunk drop offs, inner rear wells, front fender dog legs floor braces, in the cowl, and all the other inner seams etc.
I use Krown Fluid film and LPS 3. All 3 simply stop rust. Even if you live in Phoenix.
I got the underside of the car painted this weekend and primed the trunk. Everything is seam sealed so I’ll paint trunk black this week then clean everything. I have a few things to do on the chassis, brake line and fuel lines. Then body goes on the chassis. It will be at the paint shop the week of February 17.
I’m taking the car to our vice president of of our olds chapters body shop, he s gonna let me use his paint booth and teach me how to paint. I’ll be with him every step of the way. He wants to be apart of the build and I’m willing to learn anything peo-le have to offer.
