I'm going through the process of a pseudo frame-off on a '65 Cutlass Convertible (rotten frame replacement and rust repair). I would really hate to have all new fresh paint, mostly new interior, etc, and have a cracked steering wheel. The price to get my repaired seems to be high (500-700) and I was thinking about trying to do it myself. Has anyone had any success in doing this on their own wheel? Worth it?

 

Is it the woodgrain type? I do those. Usually can restore one between 200 and 250.

 

I don't know what a 65 steering wheel is made of, but many of us have found success fixing cracks in Bakellite steering wheels with JB Weld.

 

I recently restored the original wheel on my 64 Cutlass. It had assorted cracks and splits. I used a knead-able 2 part putty type epoxy for plastics. Start by drilling a small hole at the end of each crack to stop them from continuing. using a cone shaped Dremel tool, open up the edges of the cracks so the epoxy will key into them. Once hardened, smooth out and contour to match. I used a spray paint from the Parts Place that matched my PUI interior.


or color.

 

I had my 65 custom deluxe steering wheel, (half wood grain half the color of the interior of the car} done by Koch's steering wheel restoration in Acton Ca. He has the molds for these wheels, he strips them down to the bear metal and recasts them with new plastic, fantastic job, did mine for















I had my 65 custom deluxe steering wheel {half woodgrain half the color of the interior} done by Koch's steering wheel restoration here in Acton Ca. He charged me $450 to completely re do mine. He has the molds for most steering wheels, and strips them down to the bear metal and recasts them in the color needed, it looks fantastic real workmanship. It's a brand new wheel. II priced getting mine repaired, but I got prices all the way up to $1200. It takes him 3-4 weeks to do one. I didn't opt to have mine repaired, because being old plastic it might crack elsewhere. For anyone interested he is listed on line, great people to do business with.



















445

 

Big Daddy Spo,

Thanks for posting. how wide were the cracks in the steering wheel? were they larger than 3/8 in? i plan to follow your process but want to see if my cracks are too big. Also i assume you painted the wheel a few times after the bond dried?

Thanks,
Ed

 

Hi Ed, I don't believe that any of my cracks were that big. The largest might have been a 1/4" in some places. The epoxy will work on a 3/8" crack, just make sure it has something to bite to and is mixed well. One other thing to do before filling is to use a small drill or Dremel tool to put a hole at both ends of each crack so it will not continue to spread. I did spray about 3 coats to cover the wheel. I used the PUI color matched paint from the parts place. I then used a matte finish clear for a little more durability.

Spo

 

I've done a few wheels but all were for 50's era cars and trucks and were no doubt Bakelite I used PC 11 as my epoxy and a Dremel tool to open up the very small cracks. After a super good cleaning I added powered Styrofoam to the cracks and soaked it with Super Glue, sanded any dribbles then applied my epoxy over all that . Sanded that to a smooth finish Primed with a plastic primer (XIM) then sprayed the wheel with a single stage finish coat with hardener. Came out great.

I found on my first attempt that spray cans don't hold up for me. I think I sweat paint remover as the wheel finish became soft and started to peel after a year or so. Your mileage may differ.... Tedd

 

Has anyone ever restored the faux wood finish on a steering wheel insert? Below is a pic of my insert and a pic from the internet of a similar insert from a 72 Olds 98.

My plan has a few options since I cannot find this insert anywhere:

1. Prep the insert with a cleaner, light sanding, tape off raised edge aluminum bar in center and prime in a light color to accent under the stain color
2. Stain the insert with a close color that takes well to metal finishes, ex, ZAR brand stain. Their color availability is limited. I'm guessing I'm attempting to recreate Rosewood?
3. Use a wood grain tool(s) to brush faux grain
4. steel wool the raised aluminum bar
5. Spray poly or otherwise lacquer or varnish. Somebody here might tell me the pitfalls of each

Option 2

1. apply a rosewood automotive interior decal (or make a water slide decal) over top the insert. Issue here is that it will be near impossible to decal over the insert and not the raised aluminum bar in the middle. I'm not that good

And, if anyone has another idea, I'm all ears.

 

The steering wheel in my 71 98 is identical to the 2nd picture. The faux wood grain is starting to wear at the edges. If I were to attempt to restore it I would try to locate the faux wood applique and recover the center piece. From my understanding, it's a sticker. Not a water slide decal or painted. You might have to use a razor and trim the applique around the raised parts of the center piece.

Here's a good Hemmings artcile. I don't know how to get the OE applique, or if it's even available anymore. Apparently, Di-noc is a supplier.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/di-noc-siding

 

No luck finding an appliqué online. I have a roll of rosewood decal paper coming in the mail but, it sure would be nice to find an appliqué to buy.

 

Apparently, the Di-Noc mentioned in the Hemmings article I linked is made by 3M. I don't know where it can be purchased. Maybe a store like Lowes or Home Depot?

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...94857497&rt=r3

 

I picked up some vinyl from Home Depot. It’s used for lining cupboards and drawers. It was cheap and so is the glue on the back so I used 3m spray glue and it set good. Not to sure how it will stand up but it looked good in my truck for the dash trim. It turned out pretty good.

 

I’m actually restoring the identical steering wheel now. I’ve started some posts on my build. I was thinking of going with the vinyl or now that I have it stripped I might just polish the aluminum and go that way. Here’s my instert.

 

This looks really good, especially the corners. Did the corners lay down easy enough? Do you have the Depot sku #?

 

Your insert looks to have been in better condition to start than mine. When I laid down the vinyl, there was no discernible edge to trim along the aluminum... so, I just covered the aluminum bevel for now. Ultimately, I might need to find a better condition insert to start with. I used a darker brown vinyl but, have bulk rosewood vinyl coming. The vinyl for cars I used does not lay down well over curves and the Depot stuff pictured a few posts above looks pretty nice.

 

You have to use some heat from like a hair dryer to allow it to stretch in some areas. This vinyl is prob a little thinner than the stuff you ordered if it’s not laying down on some areas. I decided just to throw a piece on mine and I did it in 5 min with no heat or 3m glue just utilizing the glue on what I think they call Mac tac? The color has faded quite a bit in my car but I took a pic close to the glove box and it’s pretty close to original.

 

They have a selection of different stuff. It’s cheap enough that if it doesn’t work it’s not a lot of money wasted. I think this stuff was the cherry wood but there’s oak light or dark. Below is a quick link to check out

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Kitchen-...s/N-5yc1vZc3xh

keep in mind for a more permanent hold use a light coat of the 3M spray adhesive on both surfaces and let set up before you apply. Heat it up to get around tough corners and to remove any tiny air bubbles.

 

Cruiser88, that polished aluminum steering wheel insert looks pretty good. I see that you covered it though. Do you have a finished pic?

 

I just put that on quickly to see how it would look. With no 3M spray glue on it it comes off easily. I’m still debating on going with a modern look with the aluminum and get rid of all the faux wood in the interior. Not sure yet.




I just finished painting the wheel and parts. I’ll prob start a new thread or just add to my build thread so I don’t hijack this thread.