Legendary package tray installation on a 68 442
#1
Legendary package tray installation on a 68 442
I am trying to install my Legendary Interior. The door panels fit and look amazing, but I can't figure out how to install the package tray. It seems about three or four inches too wide and has a tapered edge with a big notch in the center of each side. The one I pulled out was quite a bit smaller and does not have this shape at all. The original is very deteriorated so it is difficult to tell for sure. I could not get this one in place without folding the sides in some fashion but there is no perforation to indicate that would need to be done. Legendary has no on line instructions for package tray installation that I can find. I would post pictures here but my last few attempts have failed. Any suggestions?
Chris
Chris
#4
Some remove the sail panels before installing the package tray. I trim the ends off so there is enough material to slide under the sail panels. The quarter liners are off. I lift up on the center of the tray and tuck the ends under the sail panels. You can then allow the panel to lay flat and slide under the rear trim panel for the rear glass. Once the panel is positioned, you use adhesive or black duct tape to secure the foam and vinyl where the rear seat back fits.
#5
I havn't used the legendary package tray, but Ed Carpenter's advice seems right on with the one I got from fusicks.
It had indentations to bend it in the right spots.. might add I didn't need any adhesive/glue, its nice and flat back there. Good Luck.
It had indentations to bend it in the right spots.. might add I didn't need any adhesive/glue, its nice and flat back there. Good Luck.
#8
I've been wanting to replace Teepos's package tray (and get that friggin build sheet out of there while I'm at it, lol
), but have read on other threads that they don't fit right, and you have to practically disassemble the whole rear area, like take off the arm rest thingys and such, and I'd hate to have the ceiling liner material get wrinkles or something in it if the sail panels have to come off the sides and stuff. Or is that lining glued down throughout the car so it wouldn't get bunched up and wrinkled? So I have hesitated to do it or have it done.
I was going to order one from Fusicks.
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#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
A package tray is not hard to chanage. Sometimes the rear lower seat to remove can be a pain. However, to do it right it will take a day or a weekend. I am thinking there is only one company that makes the rear package tray and that is REM. The quality of the mesh tray is great, but the plain tray is usable.
#11
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Is that the carboard one that is color matched to the car? If it is it's probably due for replacement anyway Sandy. Mine has 3 ugly holes in it. 2 for rear speakers (done at a sound shop back in 82 - hack job at best) and 1 for the rear defogger. The new package tray I'm putting in is mesh. I like the look of it better and it seems to be heavier (more sturdy) construction.
#12
Yep it's the original green one. It's starting to "flake" in a few places. She doesn't have rear speakers or defroster. The mesh one wouldn't be 'correct' for her would it, since she has a plain one from the factory??
#13
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Sandy, I don't know that you can even find those old pressed cardboard ones anymore. My original was cardboard too. Don't think it makes much difference for the type of shows we go to. Not like you're being judged for concours resto or survivor, right? I'm going with what looks good and works well.
#14
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Joe, can you shed any light on why they made the different package trays? Doesn't make sense to have a mesh one and also a cardboard one. Any info would be appreciated.
#15
The mesh trays were used on cars that had a factory rear speaker, and therefore seen in most 442's and supremes. But if there was no rear speaker, then, it got the plain tray. If its not a "W" car, then, I would install the mesh tray as they are thicker than they cardboard replcements. Also, if your car only had the rear defroster, then, it still only got the plain tray for 1970 as the defroster used a grill.
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Thanks Joe,
I'm installing 2 rear factory 10ohm speakers and the rear defogger. The speakers have a grille that goes over the mesh anyway - think the holes are already in the metal of the rear deck and just have to be drilled through the mesh? I like the look of the mesh compared to the plain tray.
I'm installing 2 rear factory 10ohm speakers and the rear defogger. The speakers have a grille that goes over the mesh anyway - think the holes are already in the metal of the rear deck and just have to be drilled through the mesh? I like the look of the mesh compared to the plain tray.
#17
AllanR, The Mesh ones have holes for the speaker under the mesh, so you don't have to put a grill on top.
I was very happy with the Legendary mesh tray, I put some Fatmat down around the speaker holes, replaced the speakers and put down a heat deaden-er and then the tray.
I was very happy with the Legendary mesh tray, I put some Fatmat down around the speaker holes, replaced the speakers and put down a heat deaden-er and then the tray.
#18
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
AllanR, The Mesh ones have holes for the speaker under the mesh, so you don't have to put a grill on top.
I was very happy with the Legendary mesh tray, I put some Fatmat down around the speaker holes, replaced the speakers and put down a heat deaden-er and then the tray.
I was very happy with the Legendary mesh tray, I put some Fatmat down around the speaker holes, replaced the speakers and put down a heat deaden-er and then the tray.
So, from the factory, you just put a flat head bolt /washer on the top part of the speaker and tightened up a nut from below; eliminating the need for covers? These things look great BTW, and the studs on the 4 corners line up exactly with those old 6X9 10ohm speakers. Just need a nut from below to fasten them down. It would be a one man job real easy.
#21
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Sandy, don't forget his is a fastback, and yours is a notchback. You have sail panel lights and wiring to deal with if you take them out - he won't. The fastback will also have a larger parcel shelf than the notchback. I think I know what you're getting at though. Are you thinking of replacing yours with a carboard one or a mesh one?
#22
Crap. You're right. I forgot! If I replaced mine, I would probably use the cardboard one like she has. But I don't want to get into all that taking out the lights and stuff and risk messing up her nice unwrinkled lining and such. That's why I haven't done it yet. I'm afraid someone would mess something up in there if I take it to Don Sitts or somewhere. Crap...crap..crap.
#23
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You might be able to get the old one out without too much issue. Just cut the old one (square cut) where it goes under the sail panel. Then gently ease the tabs that are under there out. Cut the new package tray tabs somewhat shorter and follow the directions from permalink 4 and it should be ok. It would be so cool if your build sheet actually came out without a fight, and was intact.
I don't think you actually have to pull the sail panels, you can loosen them a bit. They should be held by a plastic dooey thingy that you can press them back into. It would give you enough wiggle room to work with the parcel shelf tabs I think. I saw a picture of the fastener - think it was in a CSM. Have to double check and get back to you.
I don't think you actually have to pull the sail panels, you can loosen them a bit. They should be held by a plastic dooey thingy that you can press them back into. It would give you enough wiggle room to work with the parcel shelf tabs I think. I saw a picture of the fastener - think it was in a CSM. Have to double check and get back to you.
#24
Allan...The rear speakers use a Tee headed bolt that fits from underneath the shelf and thus there is no visible attatchment showing up above on top of the mesh...nice and clean
therefore you could remove and replace the rear package shelf without removing the speakers...
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#25
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Allan...The rear speakers use a Tee headed bolt that fits from underneath the shelf and thus there is no visible attatchment showing up above on top of the mesh...nice and clean
therefore you could remove and replace the rear package shelf without removing the speakers...
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#27
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You mean (gasp!) that not all Supremes were supremely equipped? I guess I've just never seen one that didn't have the sail panel lights. thx for the tip on the ILT Tstuds. I like ordering their stuff - they have been good for me.
#28
The 71 supreme that I owned had Ralley pack, Ralley steering wheel, posi, FE2 suspenesion, SS1 wheels, ralley mirrors, am radio No rear spesaker, power windows, power disc brakes, and a ram-air hood. The orginal owner was a doctor...
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