Dash Butchery Repair
#1
Dash Butchery Repair
This is what was lurking behind the faceplate of a "professional" stereo shop install.
Anyone care to share some ideas on repairing this gaping hole? This isn't a concours build so I'm open for some "creativity", lol. I'm also open for suggestions on a sound system as well.
Anyone care to share some ideas on repairing this gaping hole? This isn't a concours build so I'm open for some "creativity", lol. I'm also open for suggestions on a sound system as well.
#4
Thanks scrappie I'll keep that in mind. My initial thought was to make the hole dimensionally "square" and fab a filler plate and then bond it in place with a backer then cover with the "radio delete" insert.
BTW, love your build thread.
BTW, love your build thread.
#6
A standard automobile radio body size. A DIN radio (single DIN) measures 2x7", while a double DIN measures 4x7". When factory radio/CD players are replaced with after market units, the DINstandard ensures compatibility; however, new or altered dashboard trim may be required.
there probably was a single din radio in there.
there probably was a single din radio in there.
#8
You can likely get a lower dash panel from Scrappie on this forum
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/parts-sale-11/cleaning-out-stuff-148557/
H & H can likely supply you with a “solid” wood grain that has no radio hole cut in it. It can be cut carefully & a trim bezel will provide you with a nicely finished hole & no gap to a modern DIN chassis radio.
www.hhclassic.com
EDIT - Ooops, just noticed Scrappie checked in & I didn’t see it.
———-
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/parts-sale-11/cleaning-out-stuff-148557/
H & H can likely supply you with a “solid” wood grain that has no radio hole cut in it. It can be cut carefully & a trim bezel will provide you with a nicely finished hole & no gap to a modern DIN chassis radio.
www.hhclassic.com
EDIT - Ooops, just noticed Scrappie checked in & I didn’t see it.
———-
Last edited by bccan; September 10th, 2020 at 08:04 PM.
#9
Thanks everyone for the replies and interest.
I decided to attempt to repair the hole as stated previously.
Kinda, "what do I have to lose"? I've already roughed out a piece of aluminum for the filler and will fab the backer plate this weekend. The lower dash insert (radio delete) is on the way. I'll take pics as I go and post them when I'm done if anyone is interested.
I decided to attempt to repair the hole as stated previously.
Kinda, "what do I have to lose"? I've already roughed out a piece of aluminum for the filler and will fab the backer plate this weekend. The lower dash insert (radio delete) is on the way. I'll take pics as I go and post them when I'm done if anyone is interested.
#10
This is what was lurking behind the faceplate of a "professional" stereo shop install.
Anyone care to share some ideas on repairing this gaping hole? This isn't a concours build so I'm open for some "creativity", lol. I'm also open for suggestions on a sound system as well.
Anyone care to share some ideas on repairing this gaping hole? This isn't a concours build so I'm open for some "creativity", lol. I'm also open for suggestions on a sound system as well.
The chrome strips are mostly still intact so use a good sharp file to make the hole perfectly rectangular and then you can cut a piece of ABS plastic the correct size and attach it (weld or glue) to the dash, then cover with a new wood grain piece (if available).
As for a new sound system, what is your expectation? Decent listening? Small disco? Symphony quality? The sky is the limit. Just like the old saying, "speed cost money, how fast can you afford to go?" the audio corollary is "sound cost money, how loud can you afford to go?" If you just want good listening, a quality pair of 6X9 speakers in the rear panel with a quality high-powered deck can give very acceptable results. If you want front fill, the kick panels with built-in speaker mounting can allow for even better sound. Quality speakers is the key! They are ultimately what reproduces the sound. Good quality installation is second. Knowing how to get the speakers mounted solidly so there is no loss to loose panels or speakers to vibrate. Putting the right kind of damping material around or behind the speakers to reduce vibrations. Making sure the wiring is installed in such a way that it doesn't become damaged or short out over time. If you want a street-beater then all bets are off and that can require all kinds of vehicle modifications.
#11
Thanks for the reply cj.
For anyone following this thread, I'm almost finished with the repair. Here's the process, I'll try to be succinct.
I thought it best to keep as much "parent material" (the plastic dash) as possible so instead of touching the dash structure I made an aluminum filler plate to fill the hole that was there.
First was a thin cardboard template, then transferred to the aluminum. Fine tuned with files and it fits pretty tight. Next, a 16 ga. steel backer plate slightly bigger than the hole. I chose 16 ga. for rigidity and to accept threading. I laid out the holes to attach the backer to the dash and threaded to #6x32, used #6x32 flush s/s allen's. Test fitted the aluminum and tapped 4, 4x40's to attach the aluminum to the steel. Drilling the 50 year old dash was a bit unnerving.
Radio: I'm not an audiophile so I went simple. A Retro Radio, a 4 x 10 in the factory dash location two 6 x 9's in the package tray.
I applied the replacement dash insert yesterday. I have to point out the replacement dash insert I bought fit "ok" and had to be "fine tuned" and the finish isn't even close to OEM.
For anyone following this thread, I'm almost finished with the repair. Here's the process, I'll try to be succinct.
I thought it best to keep as much "parent material" (the plastic dash) as possible so instead of touching the dash structure I made an aluminum filler plate to fill the hole that was there.
First was a thin cardboard template, then transferred to the aluminum. Fine tuned with files and it fits pretty tight. Next, a 16 ga. steel backer plate slightly bigger than the hole. I chose 16 ga. for rigidity and to accept threading. I laid out the holes to attach the backer to the dash and threaded to #6x32, used #6x32 flush s/s allen's. Test fitted the aluminum and tapped 4, 4x40's to attach the aluminum to the steel. Drilling the 50 year old dash was a bit unnerving.
Radio: I'm not an audiophile so I went simple. A Retro Radio, a 4 x 10 in the factory dash location two 6 x 9's in the package tray.
I applied the replacement dash insert yesterday. I have to point out the replacement dash insert I bought fit "ok" and had to be "fine tuned" and the finish isn't even close to OEM.
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