johnnyhawthorn

The ignition lock cylinder on my 1970 Cutlass Supreme has completely worn out after 43 years. I'm looking to replace it, and it seems the AC Delco D1402B ignition lock cylinder is readily available. Two questions: first, will I have to also replace the door lock cylinders? I've read in a few places that the key included with the D1402B cylinders will work with any of the four GM key configurations. But I don't quite believe that. Second, will the part mentioned above work with the key warning buzzer? All of the locks on the car are original, which means the ignition and door use a "J" key and the trunk/glove box use a "K" key.

joe_padavano

The letter on the key refers to the configuration of the grooves on the sides of the key blank. They do not interchange - in other words, if you use a "J" ignition key, you will need to change the door locks to "J" configuration cylinders as well.

What exactly is "worn out"? Often, it's the key that wears, not the lock cylinder. I can cut a new key from the code on the lock cylinder. PM me for more info.

johnnyhawthorn

Worn out means the teeth on the key are dull, and the cylinder is so worn it can be turned without a key in the ignition slot. The car is a 1970 and has the original keys, so both the ignition cylinder and the door lock cylinders use a "J" key. The problem of course with buying a replacement cylinder is that I wouldn't know which key code cylinder I get until it arrives at the door.

Fun71

You may be able to get new pins for your existing ignition cylinder (the same as re-keying it but keeping the configuration the same). I have done this with door and console locks but not with an ignition cylinder so I don't know if it's possible or how difficult it may be.

johnnyhawthorn

Thanks for the tip Kenneth. I figure a good locksmith can tell me if the original can be re-keyed. Since the tumbler spins without a key in it, the key warning buzzer no longer works (I think that stopped working somewhere around the year 2000), and the cylinder is slow to spring back to the "On" position after the car is started, I'm assuming that the entire assembly is pretty worn and needs to be replaced. Just assuming, as I've never had to repair/replace one of these before.