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Seat Trim cap Removal

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Old May 30, 2014 | 11:42 AM
  #1  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Seat Trim cap Removal

I need to know the secret to this because I see a seat cover replacement coming in the near future.

HOW do you get those chrome trim caps off the seat trim without damaging them? I tried on 2 CS's that were in the bone yard but it was horrible and I ended up damaging the upright side trim too. Does anyone know the secret to this? I've tried gently prying them up and away but that doesn't work. Using a set of pliers will only wreck the finish.

Here's a pic showing the thing in question circled in red
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Old May 30, 2014 | 03:47 PM
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442Harv's Avatar
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From: Tracy Ca
Did you try a notched trim removing tool?
Old May 30, 2014 | 05:11 PM
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Allan R's Avatar
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Yes, I tried that first on the 2 cars with A65 seats. It had very little effect. I haven't tried anything on my car yet simply because of the problems I had with the 2 71 Supremes. They were somewhat weathered however and maybe that would make a difference. I also don't want to wreck those caps because I don't know where to buy replacements.
Old May 30, 2014 | 05:21 PM
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Allan,

It's the same type of clip that is used to hold wagon wheels onto the axle. I took a 69 bench seat apart years ago but I don't believe I cared about the caps on the ends and exactly how I did it. Something tells me a the claw end of a hammer was used but I also know I didn't care if I ruined the caps or not. Obviously, you need to save yours? Do you have an auto upholstery shop in the area. Wait a minute....WTH am I saying....you need to get the car back together still.

Brian
Old May 30, 2014 | 05:26 PM
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You mean these bad boys?


http://starlocks.wordpress.com/2011/03/
Old May 30, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #6  
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Yes sir, that's the ones!! Nasty little buggers to get apart!
Old May 30, 2014 | 05:34 PM
  #7  
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Had to remove them all the time. Older laser printers were full of them
Old May 30, 2014 | 06:33 PM
  #8  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
So I still need to know how the cap comes off. I get that the fasteners are a PITA, but how do I separate the chrome cap without damaging it? THAT is the meeellyun dollar question.

LOL Brian - the car actually IS back together, just not quite roadworthy. I'm sure that if I pour a couple gallons in the new tank and prime the fuel pump it'll fire right up like it's always done in the past. Just that I'm starting to take something else apart now - the cooling system. So look for a new thread soon. While it's apart I'll check the timing chain and replace if needed. Going with an HD cooling system as I noted the car has been running hot when it was last on the road. Could be a partially plugged rad, as the timing is proper, but I'm adding the whole meal deal with 6 blade fan/clutch, shroud, HD pump, and all the masticated air flow shields.
Old May 30, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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From: Austin, Tx
I use a tierod removal fork tool. Just put it between the back side of the seat arm and the bottom seat section and hit the fork and it will pop the cap off without damage.

Henry
Old May 30, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #10  
Allan R's Avatar
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Ah, pickle fork to the rescue. I'm thinking that you also put some cardboard or cloth against the other seat trim to avoid scratching?
Old May 30, 2014 | 07:11 PM
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I fold the seat back foward and place the pickle fork from the back side between the arm and the lower seat base. No trim to scratch there. Could put some tape on the fingers of the tool if you wanted.
Old May 31, 2014 | 06:21 AM
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I'm pretty sure Ames sells those repro. Yeah...I see them in the catalog 3.00 each.
Old May 31, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #13  
Allan R's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mrolds69
I'm pretty sure Ames sells those repro. Yeah...I see them in the catalog 3.00 each.
Link to their site please?
Old May 31, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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Here ya go Al, looks like they cater to poncho folks mainly but I'd imagine it's the exact same piece.

http://www.amesperf.com/
Old May 31, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #15  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Can link to the site ok, but what is the part number or description they use???

EDIT: Hang on, just found the downloadable catalogs

EDIT 2: Eureka! Found it! How come this isn't on any of the Olds vendors catalogues??? I notice they say this is only for 64/65 bucket seat cars though. Is it the same rod dimensions used on 70's bench seat cars?

Last edited by Allan R; May 31, 2014 at 01:09 PM.
Old May 31, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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I can't say if it's the same. I just knew I had seen them before. Ames is about 10 miles from my house. Their products are excellent, they have things you can't get anyplace else. I had 4 GTO's before, I've been buying from them for 30 years or so. Started buying parts for my 442 from them about 15 years ago. I'm going to check my Buick cats, see if they have them at a Buick supplier.
Old May 31, 2014 | 06:41 PM
  #17  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Any chance you can find out what size the rod is those caps fit over? I'm wondering if GM did something smart and kept seat components uniform over the years. Appreciate anything you can find out on this. BTW I have that link saved to my favorites now. Is it me or do the Pontiac parts seem to cost less???
Old May 31, 2014 | 09:34 PM
  #18  
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Randy C.
 
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From: Albany, OR
I bought those same caps for my '68 bench seat. They worked perfect and look exactly like the old ones I destroyed trying to remove.

Randy C.
Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:38 AM
  #19  
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I guess that's your answer...they should work. You really should get an Ames catalog. They pioneered a LOT of stuff for GTO that will fit other Abody. Like...the right size MOLDED bucket seat chrome piping. It helps if you know what fits what. Years ago, they would give me a hard time when I said the parts were for an Olds. But they have changed now. I'm always sending the Buick guys there for parts!
Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:40 AM
  #20  
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The trick to removing these is .... an offset flat blade screwdriver. http://www.bingtools.com/products/of...ver_p3051.html You need the one who's blade in perpendicular to the shaft. You push it in under the lip and locate the edge of one of the flanges and push that corner up. Do the same for all the flanges. Always the same corner. You've now made a helix that you can carefully unscrew.
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