hello everyone,

any suggestion on what set up I can use for the cooling lines for 1968/442 I would like to replace the olds lines and replace it, and what size are the cooling lines, threads to the radiator and to the transmission, if in case I decide to make my own..


thanks guys,

 

I wish I could find it on their website, but Summit makes AN hose kits that work perfectly for transmission cooler lines. The fittings into the transmission cooler are inverted flare. Make sure you don't use Teflon tape. You will need an inverted flare to AN adapter. I'm not sure but I think the fittings on the transmission are NPT.

 

Actually, the trans case itself has NPT threads. There are two adapter fittings that screw into the NPT threads to provide the inverted flare for the cooler pipes. The lines themselves are 5/16".

Frankly, I wouldn't waste the money on braided stainless lines. Keep in mind that they are just rubber tubes with a stainless outer braid. You can't get them pre-molded, so the radiator hoses won't fit right. The cheesy overbraid that goes on stock hoses looks very JC Whitney. The trans lines are better off being hard line than flex hose. Spend the money on a performance improvement, or get stainless lines from one of the tubing vendors and polish them if you want bling.

 

I put braided AN hose on my 71 for the transmission cooler lines and the fuel pump to carburetor. I think they work great. Now, all I need to do is get some AN wrenches so I don't damage the fittings.

FWIW, I agree that the stainless steel braided sleeves look cheesy. I saw an otherwise perfect red and white 57 Olds 88 with a continental kit and J2 intake at the car show this weekend. The owner had installed tastefully done chrome parts on the 371 and redone the interior to look immaculate. The braided stainless steel sleeves in the engine bay looked out of place. I should have called him out on it... oh well, that's not what right looks like.

 

Body off or on? If it is off and I had unlimited funds, I would get stainless tube, good tools to bend and flare and make them. Kinda tough with body on.

 

He's only talking about the trans cooler and radiator lines, not the brake/fuel lines.

 

Check with Right Stuff Detailing, they make pre-bent trans cooler lines. You can buy their parts thru Summit Racing.

 

All of the pre-bent line vendors sell them.

 

thank you for the heads up, you guys are great...I will go with the stainless steel. Also, ill go to another subject... just got the new transmission today, (TCI/TH-400 streetfighter) and I will be installing it by myself. where is the safest place to position the jackstand. would like to leave the car on the jackstand for at least 2 weeks so I can clean up underneath the car while the transmition is out. would like to know where the best placement for the jackstand so i don't stress chassis. also, any recommendation on what is easiest transmission jack to work with? ie...or an adapter type?

thank you again,,,,

 

I have made my own out of copper/nickel 5/16" brake pipe tubing, easy to work with and lasts forever.
Anyone with a tube flaring kit would have no trouble doing the same.

Roger.

 

Here's another good thread with a diagram on where you can put your safety stands.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...64-f-85-a.html

Usually, I will lift the transmission on a floor jack a few inches so I can bolt it to the engine. You can use a piece of plywood between the transmission pan and floor jack.

 

Check Inline Tube. I know some here are not fond of them but I changed all the brake lines on the 71' to SS and with some minor muscling, they fit perfect. By minor I mean the usual flex this way push that way just a little more effort with SS.

 

I would put the jack stands under the lower control arms, right under the shocks. That way they are out of your way. If you want to support the rear, place them spaced out under the rear differential.

 

Front stands go under the reinforced parts of the frame behind the front wheels, where the frame kicks out to the rocker panels. Rear stands go under the reinforced parts of the frame where the lower control arms bolt to the frame.

I got this exact jack from Harbor Freight about a decade ago for $149 on sale. No complaints whatsoever, however I've never used the tabs in the corners of the plate. I just rest the trans pan in it directly, otherwise the trans it too high to get out from under the car.

 

I disagree. If the stands are under the sprung part of the suspension, the car will bounce when bumped. Put them under the rigid part of the frame.

 

thank you again, ill be starting the removal this weekend....

 

Bumped how?

 

It usually requires some persuasion to get the trans unstuck from the dowel pins on the block. Why add an unnecessary degree of freedom? Plus, the bottom of the LCAs isn't flat, so the jackstand won't have the best surface to interface with.

 

just and update on how it went today...with the help of my brother, we got the tranny out with the help of a trans jack (thru craiglist), we had to take out headers (only driver side), so we will have room to wiggle the trans out,,,, starter and also distributor was also removed., it does make a big difference of not having all these parts around when removing the tranny. ill be changing the original column shift and install a hurst quarter stick shifter. I will install quarter stick shifter into a 1968 442 console shifter, with a little fabrication I'm sure it will work. I will post pictures of the process. in the meantime, got to get dirty and go underneath, clean and carefully paint brush por 15. again, thank you for the much needed pointers....you guys are the best..

 

Good to hear that you got the transmission out. We look forward to seeing pics once you install the Hurst shifter.