pogo69

not sure if i made a mistake... put on a wix 51243 instead of a 51258 filter cant seem to see much of a difference the 51243 is bigger which i want but sacrifice about 4 microns in the ''comparison listing'' and no anti drain back which i dont think is important... anyone else use the 51243?

quaddriver

All the anti drain back does is shorten ever so slightly the amount of time that the engine will run at high rpm, cold, with sparse oil flow. roller cam? not so much a problem. synthetic oil? not so much a problem.

On a straight up and down filter, not as big a deal that if the filter is on its side or tipepd over.

my personal preference is: bigger is better, not so much for the extra tiny oil capacity (assuming we are not talking PF25 type filter vs the monster 1.5qt truck filters or even the more reasonable pf35) but for the larger filter media surface - less pressure drop, less time in bypass.

Im not so enamored with the COTS tiny filters available now mainstream for olds engines, so I was thrilled when I got a couple cases NOS PF24 equivalents...

pogo69

I like the pf-24 always used them before but just wanted something bigger so i decided the wix 51243 might fit the bill even though it is listed mostly for commercial john deere and OMC applications

I agree since the olds filter is a vertical mount anti drain back is not as important

joe_padavano

I made the switch to Wix/NAPA Gold when the AC filter production moved south of the border and quality went in the toilet. Top plate thickness decreased dramatically, for example.

My442

Baldwin B9


It's a full 1 quart filter.


Cross reference is WIX 51049

pogo69

that sounds like a good one but a little smaller than the 51243 but a little higher on the micron.

I do realize that this is just an oil filter...just seeing what others use

Fun71

Wix 1049 / NAPA Gold 51049 since the 80s.

pogo69

yes that's a good one, and little better that the 51243 with a finer micron

70-442-W30

They build the WIX filters just down the road from me. That's generally what I go with.

davebw31

Wix would be the last filter I would use along with a Fram. Baldwin B9 is the best. K&N is a very good filter also, but pricey.

As the Fleet Manager of the fourth largest school bus fleet in the USA (2,500 white fleet vehicles, cars and up to 80,000 lb. 18 wheeler low-boys, both gas and diesel, and 2,000 diesel school buses) I hired an independent company to test the filters we were using, (oil-fuel-air-water/fuel separator-coolant), which was just about anything that came in "low bid". I did this to convince the "School Board Members" to add a clause to our bid process to be "Brand and performance specific". I also wanted to have vendors bid "extended life oil and fuel/water separator filters" since the oil we were using could easily go 15,000 miles (I had the oil tested). We were at 5,000 miles intervals.

Brands like Wix-NAPA-Fram were showing a high percentage of these filters going in to by-pass mode at around 5,000 miles and failing the amount of microns for the filtering test.

I use in my 180,000 mile 97' Honda Accord EX car, 130,000 mile 2001 Ford 7.3 diesel truck, and 8.1 lt. motor home, either Purolator Gold, Fleet Guard, Baldwin, Motor Craft, or A/C Delco (when I can find them USA made). In my race car K&N.

BangScreech4-4-2

Somebody answer me this: I drive my car about 500-1000 miles a year and every fall I put it away with fresh oil and a brand new filter. How much does it really matter what brand of filter I use?

quaddriver

oil and filters are like religion. (heck there is even a website 'bobistheoilguy' that thrives many years after he passed....)

if you want jihad in this world, you can either draw cartoons of the prophet, or use the wrong type of oil and filter.

yes I am being facetious. if you have that many annual miles and change that often, live long and prosper. heck, shop at walmart.

70-442-W30

I think what Dave B said about the 5000 mile issue probably doesn't pertain to the majority of those who have these older cars. In fleet, yes the scenario he mentions makes perfect sense if you are going 15,000 miles but who here is doing that? Who even does 3000 miles between changes? Probably not many. I would bet that guys that put so much time into these cars and so little mileage probably do it much earlier than 3k.

pogo69

are the baldwins still all made in the USA? i have read that they come from mexico and china, but not sure

davebw31

pogo69: I just bought Baldwin filters last year, in May, 2015, for my motor home's Allison trans. and Gold Marque 7,000 watt Onan generator, and their web site said "USA Made".

70-442-W30: To be more specific for my 70' F-85 W31, I change the oil (Penzoil 10W30)and A/C Delco 1 quart filter every two (2) yrs., and add 4 oz. of PDZZ additive. I drive it at least 15 to 20 miles a month minimum (sometimes more for car shows or as a grocery getter). I "get on it" a min. of three (3) times to 6,500 rpm in each gear to get water in the exhaust system out! The worst thing you can do is just start it once a month and let it idle. I live in Florida which has high humidity every day of the year. Moisture and fuel dilution is the enemy of the engine/oil and water/moisture left in the exhaust system. Also, not to mention the moisture in my trans. and rear end.

After I deplete my supply of Penzoil I will be going to Modil 1 10W30. I drive about 500-1000 miles a year. I have had my oil tested twice during two (2) cycles of oil/filter changes once a year and the lab. says "continuing using". So instead of changing oil/filter every year I went to every two (2) years. If you store over winter time I would not change the oil/filter before storing, as the inside of the engine will have acquired moisture in it during that time. In spring is when I would change the oil/filter. Run the engine a few minutes to warm, let it sit for a 1/2 hour, then drain oil. This will "capture any moisture" and drain out with the oil. When I lived in Chicago/Lansing I would remove spark plugs and spray light Military grade oil in the cylinders and crank the engine over for 5 seconds. I then would lightly tighten spark plugs. To keep the cylinders/pistons/rings lubed I would crank engine once a month for again, 5 seconds. Disconnect positive cable end from battery.

Also, buying brands like Royal Purple, Hemmings oil, Lucas, and Bradly, although are good oils, they are not "cost effective". Whatever oil you use "know where it came from". Crude oil from the upper Northeast states, like Pennsylvanian crude, are the best! Research the brand for amount of hydrocarbons (low), sulfur (high), ash (low), and if it contains the chemical additive malibdate, sic (allows the oil to "cling" to metal parts). I save 1/3 the cost, using off the shelf, major brand quality oil, and by adding the PDZZ additive (I buy in bulk which is cost effective instead of buying one at a time).

A very good source of info is the API (Automotive Petroleum Institute) manual on oils. It is a very good resource book and I used it a lot!

quaddriver

I kinda want my oil low in sulphur..... just sayin

davebw31

Sulfur is a lubricant, but bad for emissions. Yes, in order to protect the environment. global warming, etc., low sulfur oil. In new diesels exhaust systems with a re-generation catalytic convert muffler, since it's enactment of the Fed. Emissions Std. of 2004, not so bad. For my 2001 Ford diesel I add a Supplemental Lubricity additive to my fuel to compensate for low sulfur fuel to lubricate the very expensive electronic high pressure fuel injectors!

coldwar

Brad Penn - Absolutely the last word in oil for what is desirable for our vintage engines. The oil I like is the former Kendall 20W-50W racing product now sold under the Brad Penn name.

http://www.amref.com/Default.aspx

"....Brad Penn Brief History

In 1997, American Refining Group, Inc. (ARG), a privately held energy company headquartered in Philadelphia, PA, purchased the Kendall/Amalie refinery located in Bradford, PA, from Witco Corporation. As a result of the sale by Witco, of the Kendall® and Amalie® brands to a third party, a new name was given to the products produced at the site: Brad Penn® Premium Pennsylvania Grade Lubricants. Founded in 1881 at the height of the domestic oil boom, the Bradford refinery is the only refinery processing 100% Pennsylvania Grade crude oil. It is also the oldest continuously operated lube oil refinery in the world. Due to the consistency of our feedstocks, the quality of our products can be traced from the wellhead to the finished packaged product. ARG’s refinery and blending and packaging operations are ISO 9001:2000 certified. The Bradford refinery was the first in the United States to carry the ISO 9002 certification.

The term “100% Pure Pennsylvania Grade Crude Oil” has long carried with it an industry connotation for being one of the best sources of high quality lubricant base stocks in the world. Our BRAD PENN® refinery, the oldest continuously operating lube oil refinery in the United States, still refines 100% Pennsylvania grade crude oil. PA grade crude oil is a very thermally stable paraffinic crude oil which contains no asphaltic constituents. This makes it an ideal choice from which to refine premium quality base oils. Because we use only one crude stock, our refined products are of consistently high quality and performance.

BRAD PENN® brand products are truly “MADE IN THE U.S.A.” American Refining Group’s Bradford, PA refinery is the home of “The Green Oil®” that racers, engine builders and enthusiasts alike have all come to know and love! The unique green color and outstanding performance of our Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils set them apart from the competition.


BRAD PENN® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils are formulated using a unique base oil cut from our tower, which gives our Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils exceptional film strength. This unique base oil causes our Penn Grade 1®High Performance Oil to cling tenaciously to engine parts to minimize wear during high engine torque loading and/or periods of heavily stressed operation such as those experienced during competition. This same oil ‘cling’ helps prevent ‘dry-start’ conditions to minimize wear even after the engine has been sitting idle for extended periods.


BRAD PENN® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils also contain highly effective detergent and dispersant additives to guarantee exceptional engine cleanliness as well as oxidation and foam inhibitors that offer protection against thermal degradation and air entrainment.


In addition to our unique base oil cut, increased concentration of “zinc” (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate a.k.a. ZDDP) provides outstanding anti-wear/anti-scuffing protection for engines employing either ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams. BRAD PENN® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils have been evaluated by a number of premiere camshaft manufacturers with tremendous success. Many are now recommending our Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils to provide outstanding protection for their ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams...."

droptopron

Last change I got a Hastings filter. Anyone have any experience with them?

quaddriver

Yessir, it was good in diesel fuel and its removal dropped a few hundred thousand big trucks on the side of the road. in motor oil however, i takes up some of the carbon bonds and its inclusion causes excessive oil shear. not as much fun.

Burd

I used to use a longer AC filter back in the day when you could still get it, I think it was for a AMC. Like a PF 51 or PF59.

Destructor

With a name like Fram it has to suck.

Burd

those are good filters

Burd

I did this a while back, sorry for the photoshitbucket pic. As you can see the PF24 has changed through the years. Hers 4 diff versions I have.