Ok - still messing with my carb/timing. Shut the car down and smell something burning on passenger side of motor (see smoke). So I run over and take a look, a couple drops of oil landed on the exhaust pipe. The oil ran down the side of the filter before it reached the exhaust pipe.

There is oil pooled on top of the filter, but since the oil filter is kicked in toward motor (angled due to the design of the adapter) I can only assume the gasket is bad on the filter.

Anyone else have this problem? Should be known that the filter is a Carquest brand and not the normal Wix that I use. Good thing I was planning on changing oil anyway.

d1

 

this will also happen if you over-tighten. it will twist the gasket.

 

Probably my luck, I thought I actually installed this filter looser than I usually do. I normally install them by feel, but this time I followed the directions on the filter. Oh well, I will be getting the Wix/Napa Gold filter tomorrow and I should be good to go.

 

Make sure the old gasket isn't still there

 

Yep. If you remove the old filter, but it leaves its gasket on the flange, and then you spin on the new one, it will not seal, and you'll tear your hair out trying to find the problem.

- Eric

 

Carquest filters are made by wix. they do have a cheaper filter that is red. but i do not know who makes them.

 

Hand tight is all you need on an oil filter.

 

Remember to put a little clean oil around the entire circle gasket on the filter with your finger, as this also helps to prevent leaks.

 

Clean oil or used oil? I used to use the clean when I first started doing my own oil changes, but I watch my mech do it and he always uses the old stuff. I haven't had any problems *knock on wood*

 

When you take the old filter off check where the oil filter housing bolts to the block too. I hastily replaced a gasket on one once and didn't quite get all the old gasket off and it leaked oil the same way you describe when i got back together. This was in my younger days when i wasn't too paitent by the way Just something to check for or may have gotten over looked if you had that apart.

 

Whenever you change the filter you should check for leaks when you fire up the engine afterwards, any manufacturer can make the occasional bad one.
I have often used carquest filters for a wide range of vehicles of various makes. Not because I have a particular fondness for that brand, I normally have a shopping list of service parts for my friends American cars when I visit the USA and the manager of the store where I stay is very helpful in making sure I have exactly what I need - it's a long trip back if something is wrong!.
Never had a bad one yet.
Roger.

 

Just put the clean oil on the gasket, I understand the old oil is working for some but that just makes no sense to me considering you have the clean oil right next to you.

This is your car so do it right. The shops will do anything to save a fraction of time - no matter how mindless it is.

 

I orginally thought this was the case, but figured the oil would leak down the oil filter at the side closest to the motor. Mine is on the opposite side and starts at the very top of the filter. I will look at it tonight.

d1

 

I once had a mismarked filter. Years ago, I did an oil change on a GF's old 70's Firebird. Spun on the new, but didn't confirm that the filter was identical to the old one. Looked OK, it fit, spun on fine and snugged up like it should. Fired up the car and by the time I made it around to check for leaks, it had pumped a bunch of the oil all over the ground and more by the time I shut it down.

The gasket size was slightly off from what it should be for that car.

Took it back to the store and compared to another (same number) and it was different. The only thing that store guy & I could figure is that some how it got 'mismarked' at the factory.

 

This happened to me last week. 150 miles from home it was seeping enough to cause a drip every 45 seconds at idle. The oild ran down the neck to the oil filter, pooled on top of the filter and down the outboard side of the filter onto my nice new headers making a good smoke screen behind me.

Then all hell broke loose, but that is another thread I have to start.

$3 gasket at NAPA and $15 to get one to me. I made one out of a roll of gasket paper I had in the garage. Still dry after another 75 miles of driving and 2 hours of idle time.

It has three bolts you can get at with a wrench. Exhaust should not need to be moved. The top bolt I found easier to get at from under the hood.

I also flat sanded the oil block with about 400 paper and cleaned up some burrs/marked around one of the bolt holes. Flat surfaces mate together really.

 

What did you torque your bolts at (retard strength or per the manual)? I used stainless steel bolts when I attached the adapter. Maybe I need to go back and use the factory bolts...

 

Careful.

Stainless fasteners have a way of backing out sometimes.
I'd use some blue LockTite on those.

- Eric

 

I used "elbow" torque. Firstly, I also used a small film of RTV/silicone between the oil block and gasket. I snugged all the bolts down slowly and once all were flush gave them a good snugging (maybe 1/2 turn after flush). I let it sit for a while for the RTV to set and then ran the engine for about 15 minutes and pulled the filter of and gave each bolt a little more, maybe a 1/4 turn. The housing is aluminium so I am cautious about cracking or warping it. That's why I sanded smooth on a hard flat surface to get rid of any distortions already there.

The holes are not straight through so make sure the bolts are not bottoming out before getting the block tight.



Let us know what you find.

 

Well, I took a look at the filter after I drained the oil and it seemed ok. I studied the gasket and it looked "wavy" to me. Granted the gasket was not sitting all the way down in its groove but even when I pressed it down it did not seem uniform all the way around, more of an undulating pattern. Maybe attributed to over-tightening??

Next I looked at the adapter. Stainless steel bolts were tight, I gave them a little more just in case. I could not find any trails of oil leading from the gasket area of the adapter or on top of the adapter. I felt around everywhere that my fingers could reach. I used q-tips to reach in nooks to try an find oil. The motor is freshly painted so oil should stand out when I shine a light on the engine.

There was residual oil in odd places but nothing that showed a pattern. I am guessing while I was going down the road oil that was sitting on top of the filter was pushed other places.

I checked around the cylinder head and valve cover and nothing was leaking there either.

Installed new Wix filter (oiled gasket first) filled the motor with fresh oil and fired it up. Had it running 10-15 minutes with no noticeable leaking. I will take it for a drive this weekend and see if it does the same thing.

Right now, if I had to guess, I over-tightened the Carquest filter. But, I will put a few more miles on the motor before I know for sure.

Thanks everyone for the input.

d1

 

If you continue to accumulate oil on top of the filter then check the back of your intake. I've recently seen 2 455's with this problem--the rubber end rail on the back of the intake squeezed out and the oil ends up on top of the oil filter. That's the FIRST place I look now (back of intake)!!! Leaks on the filter and housing are rare.

 

its not the filter. I had the exact same problem and I use top of line filters. Its the adapter or as listed right above a intake gasket leaking at the rear. Mine would do it sometimes but not always. I kept thinking it was me and or the Oil Filter. Mine was at the adaptor at the block. Leaking right over to the top of the filter. Good Luck

 

X2. While under my car last week I followed an oil trail up from my filter to the back rear corner of the intake. It was hard to follow since the oil is still so clean, but it was there.

I will say it kind of hurt my feelings as I've never had an intake gasket leak lol. Live and learn right?

 

The rubber end rails are a pretty terrible design...they have that rounded ridge/profile along them which seems to only serve as a pivot point to force the things outwards when you tighten down an intake. Maybe FelPro included this to be an extra "crankcase ventilation" feature with their gasket sets??!!

 

Well gentlemen, for now I am not showing any leaks on or around the oil fiter/adapter housing. I will continue to monitor. Thanks for the info on where else to look for the leak should it return.

d1

 

Please also note,, Like yours mine only leaked at certain times. If I drove easy it wouldnt leak. It's when I romped on it. Which I like doing from time to time. Anyway good luck.

 

Funny...just checked and my 455 fresh rebuilt is also leaking at the filter housing...ordered two new gaskets from inline tube. One for a spare...

 

You are correct, sir!!

Mine did not leak for about 2 weeks and 1 kick azz burnout later I have oil on top of the oil filter. Looks like the adapter is leaking as you indicated. Well, now I know what I will be doing on my next oil change.

d1

 

Please report back the enjoyment level of replacing that gasket - I may have to do the same soon...

 

never use the rubber end rail gaskets always use straight silicone., when putting the intake manifold on i always lay a nice bead on the block let it sit then i lay a thin bead on the intake and thats it never leaks. I also have the leaky filter issue but it never leaks past the filter ridge enough to smoke

 

defiant1 --Glad to see you got to the bottom of it. Good Luck with the fix. Love those Crager Wheels. A really good looking Car you have there.