What's everyone's favorite sealer for an aluminum intake to iron heads? I will be using the turkey tray gasket but tossing the rubber ends.
I would like to use the same compound for the thermostat housing as well. All opinions welcome, thanks.

 

Good job ditching the rubber lifter valley seals. Use gasket maker instead.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-85080

I use blue or black RTV on the rest of the turkey tray, except for the exhaust crossover where I use hi temp red.

 

Gasoline turns rtv to slime. I use Permatex brush-on liquid on the turkey tray except at the water ports, where I use ultra black rtv. Same rtv on the thermostat housing.

 

I use “The Right Stuff” gasket maker in place of the rubber end seals and RTV around the water ports, Gasgacinch on the rest.

 

KW Copper coat on intake ports, permatex the right stuff RTV for the rest let set overnight

 

Either Right Stuff or Permatex Ultra Black or Grey depending on how I want it to look. I use Permatex aviation form a gasket around all of the ports on the turkey tray. I brush it on both sides and then put it together.

 

Agree, Aviation sealant on both sides of the turkey except the 4 corner water ports. The Right Stuff on both sides. Then tall narrow beads on the end rails.

 

this ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

RTV black around the water ports and end rails. Gasgacinch on all the ports. Both top and bottom side of gasket. Right Stuff would be even better for the water ports and end rails but I never had a problem with the RTV.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. In the past I always just used high temp red silicone. Curious though, would you let the intake sit overnight
before torquing down the intake? With all the bolts in finger-tight or so?

 

I'm sure someone knows the difference between RTV and Right Stuff RTV. The price is a big one, I know.

 

I wouldn't let the intake sit overnight with the hardware finger tight. I cut the turkey tray from the side rails of the gasket and use the side rails as I mentioned above. I torque the intake per the service manual and then let it sit overnight before filling with coolant and starting the engine.

 

I torque them down as I put it together. I do not let any of the sealers set up. After I torque it down I run all the bolts a second time. The first bolts in the sequence will be loose because the bolts beside them squish the gasket more.

 

RTV usually takes about 24 hrs to fully cure. THE right stuff cures in about 90 minutes, For shops its great to use this.

 

same here, used it for years.

 

No worries. Fel Pro includes a small tube of black RTV in the MS96015 intake manifold gasket. It looks like the Victor Reinz and Mahle gaskets include RTV too (at least according to the pic on RockAuto).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ld+gasket,5424

 

We all use similar techniques. Even the Right Stuff swells in Gasoline, sure you guys done more than one intake with RTV but there is a better product for gas. I like Ultra and Optimum lines from Permatex. I prefer the Black Right Stuff or the Optimum Black. But I prefer the Optimum Grey for exhaust over the Right Stuff Grey or Optimum Red. Looks nearly invisible and is very heavy body and 250 degrees higher than the Right Stuff. I have to use the the composite gaskets with the new Edelbrock heads. I still plan on the same procedure as some have had leakage around the ports with the composite gaskets. I find the end rails need triple beads, narrow and tall to seal with aluminum intakes.

 

OK adding to the confusion I came across this on youtube Mopar RTV watch the video to the end results anyone ever try this stuff??

 

I would have liked to see the Optimum Grey, should be the strongest of the Permatex and the most heat resistant. The Mopar is interesting. I know Ford had their RTV. It was very similar to The Right Stuff. Good info, depending on what you are using it for and they are not created equally.