Im changing an intake gasket on a 425 in my 70 442 with a performer intake. What gasket is best and to use end seals or not? I have the turkey tray #MS96004

 

I throw away the end seals and use a wall of RTV black, although the first one I did (out of 3 with those intakes) I used the rubber seals and it still hasn't leaked(10yrs)...after hearing all the horror stories, the next two just the RTV! I also used the tray, the most important thing is to use the rtv around the water ports(both sides of tray) and gaskicinch around the remaining ports(again, both sides of tray)....also key is making sure the little pilot tabs(on the tray) are cleanly seated in the holes on the heads!

 

Mr Gasket 404/405
I use the end seals coated in Indian head sealer, and do NOT have problems.
Water ports with indianhead both sides.
Gaskacinch around all other ports.
I do not run the turkey tray.
If I do, the ports have been cut off with tin snips.
Jim

 

Thanks for your responses. Maybee I have read to meny different opinions.
I'm new to this site and like the friendly additude much better.

 

This has been debated and redebated on here. I think the only thing you will find consensous on is the RTV on the end gaskets.

 

Well, used black RTV in the front and rear end seals, now leaking oil from the front. I will use a new turkey tray and try again.

My thought is to use the rubber end seals this time and center punch the rails and the intake, use a light film of RTV on the bottom of the seal and on the top.

Your Thoughts?????? Please

 

The times I've used RTV instead of end seals I had leaks. Like someone above said use the end seals with Indian Head or some similar sticky gasket goop and you should be okay especially with an aluminum intake. The only time I've ever had trouble with an end seal was with a cast iron intake because I had to slide the intake forward or back and the seal went with it.

 

I use the end seals never had a problem, I think Tony hit the nail on the head about running into trouble if you end up sliding the intake around and twisting the seal.

 

Before taking that intake off to reseal the ends I would try cleaning the leak area with some thinner/cleaner then just run a bead over the leak...I tried that once...sealed just fine.

 

Thanks gents.
I will have the intake off for a few days doing other work (clean and paint)at the same time. I may get everything clean punch the front and back rails and seal the bottom of the end seals down to the block a day before I install the intake and then install a light coat of sealer to the top of the end seals.

This may keep them from sliding???????????

 

Flepro #1356 the best intake gaskets out there. Throw away the end seals and use a 3/8" bead of silicon on front and rear rails. Also give a little extra silicon where the rails meet the heads. JKaz

 

I tried to do this with the end seals and now i have a leak on the front one... now my question is How can I fix it? I really hate to have to take this all the way back apart because the rest of it seems to be sealed up pretty good. I can see myself taking it apart, fixing the front and then having an issue elsewhere. Any suggestions? I attached a pic... Also, will I need to buy a new gasket? I just put this intake on 2 weeks ago with the new pan and gasket.

 

By the looks of the pic you need to redo. When I used the end seals I sealed them down front and back with gasked sealer 24 hours before I installed the intake so them were set to the block and could not move.

Pic shower it is pushed all the way out. I also retorked after running the engine up to temp.

Good Luck
Took me 3 times to get it to seal.

 

I installed a Performer on my BBC, and Edelbrock recommends scrapping the end seals and using RTV Blue. This was about 6 years ago and no problems.

 

Never had a problem with end seals leaking but I've had the turkey tray leak oil and the Mr Gasket blow the rear drivers side port after 8 years leak free. After two years I now have oil getting into coolant but not coolant getting into the oil, cooling system holds pressure. I'm convinced that the paper type gasket eventually becomes saturated with oil. Each time the engine cools down the vacuum created in the cooling system sucks a very small amount of oil into the coolant. It doesn't rear it's ugly head until after a couple months of winter storage the oil comes through the high point of the hose. I had the same thing happen to the stock gasket on my 305 powered Caprice. The replacement Felpro gasket for the Chevy had silicone beads around each port and was specifically designed for use with the alum/iron combination. My Chevy never leaked again. As far as I know no one makes the type of gasket with silicone beads for the olds 350, we're stuck with either the turkey tray or paper type Mr Gaskets which don’t work as well with the aluminum manifolds. I am very **** when I do my repairs, the surfaces are spotless when I apply the gaskets and I use Permatex sealer around the intake ports and copper silicone around the water ports. It seems hit or miss with these. I now have a Mr Gasket ultraseal III (expensive) for when I repair it once again. My next step is to find a 4 barrel cast iron manifold and just go with a stock 4barrel Q-jet. A mechanic friend used to see the same thing happen on V8’s with aluminum manifolds, all forms of leaks including oil in coolant but no loss of coolant. The Ultraseal III is advertised as nor requiring sealer, not sure if I trust that claim, anyone use the Ultraseal III.