66 330 intake gasket ?

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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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66 330 intake gasket ?

I posted some time back that I must have an intake gasket leak so my question is what is your guys recomendation for replacement. I have seen them with and without the turkey trays. What brand name would help immensley. While I have it off I would like to fill the crossovers in the intake I have seen several ideas on this the ingets or just jamming aluminum foil in it or having it welded shut I like the aluminum foil idea cheap easy and form fitting but you guys have more experience than I. All I know is the paint peeling on the intake is driving me crazy when everything else looks good. I need to get started on this so I can drive it to get the headliner replaced. Oh and what are the torque specs. Thanks in advance
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ithaca4me
I posted some time back that I must have an intake gasket leak so my question is what is your guys recomendation for replacement. I have seen them with and without the turkey trays. What brand name would help immensley. While I have it off I would like to fill the crossovers in the intake I have seen several ideas on this the ingets or just jamming aluminum foil in it or having it welded shut I like the aluminum foil idea cheap easy and form fitting but you guys have more experience than I. All I know is the paint peeling on the intake is driving me crazy when everything else looks good. I need to get started on this so I can drive it to get the headliner replaced. Oh and what are the torque specs. Thanks in advance
Call Summit, or Loper's Performance in Phx, and get a set of Mr. Gasket 405G intake gaskets. It's a paper gasket, use permatex, or Indian head around the water ports, and I use the rubber ends with gaskacinch on them.

Never leaks.

About your crossovers-forget beer can, or foil. It will melt. The passage gets waaaaay hotter than a Chevy.
If I don't fill the head's crossover with molten aluminum, I'll use a thin sheet steel with the 405 paper gasket. You will have to use an electric choke.
30 ft/lbs, oiled bolts.
Follow the proper torque sequence from the manual.

Jim
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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so don't use the turkey tray then? I appreciate the reply. Just checking.
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 06:49 PM
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You don't have to.
I like the paper gaskets, especially when using an aluminum intake. Paper gaskets move a lot less while you try to install the manifold. Paper gaskets work fine with iron manifolds also.
330's usually had a "tub" or "tray" bolted to the block in the middle of that area anyway, to keep oil off the bottom of the manifold, and inside the tray where it does pretty much nothing but cooks.
If it is a high mileage engine, you will probably have to remove about a pound of hardened cooked oil out of there.
I always had to use a sealer with the turkey tray gasket too. I have never been fond of them, unless I have an old one, cut the manifold surface area off of it, and put it where the factory tray was, and use the paper gasket. Does the same thing.

If you clean out the factory tray and drains, plug the crossovers, and use the paper gaskets, it should drain the oil out and not bake in there.

Jim

Last edited by Warhead; Jan 30, 2011 at 04:07 AM.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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I'll once again say that in 35 years of working on these cars, I've never had a problem with the stock gasket on any factory or aftermarket intake. Obviously you need to use a new gasket every time and ensure that the four locating bosses are properly seated in the bolt holes. Use RTV around the water passages per the CSM.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I'll once again say that in 35 years of working on these cars, I've never had a problem with the stock gasket on any factory or aftermarket intake. Obviously you need to use a new gasket every time and ensure that the four locating bosses are properly seated in the bolt holes. Use RTV around the water passages per the CSM.
Just do not try to use a Mondello style blocking plate, or metal sheet on the manifold face, along with the Turkey tray. That MAY cause sealing issues.
Jim
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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Okay still up in the air a little bit for me I would like to keep it stock as possible but I would still also like to seal the ports with some stainless sheet metal but the turkey tray is a bone stock replacement but I do not see as many of them when I do a search for gaskets. You guys have been helpful so at htis point I guess it is up to me to poop or get off the pot so to speek.
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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I ordered and have recieved my valley intake gasket made by ROL I got if off of ebay. But when I got it it seems kind of sprung (not sure if this is the right word.) and shallow, now I have never changed one of these on an Olds before so I am kind of asking I know it is probably hard to envision what I am saying but is this normal? Just kind of need to know so I can contact the seller if there is a problem I am sure I can make it work but I want to know so I can determine what kind of feedback to leave.
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Felpro makes them. Can get at NAPA
Old Mar 3, 2011 | 07:20 AM
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There are 2 gaskets available for a 330. One is a tray type for engines without the turkey tray, and the other is just the manifold to head sealing area with rubber seals, both are steel.
Old Mar 5, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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well went replace the gasket today and the valley pan does not fitbecause of another pan bolted into the bottom but somebody has already replaced it at one time because it had a 2 piece victor 15122 gasket set in it. So I am dead in the water for 3 days until I can get the gaskets in. Just wonder what kind of pan this is in the bottom but it will not allow the vally pan to bend enough to go in there.
Old Mar 5, 2011 | 06:13 PM
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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That pan in the block can be removed and then you can use the gasket you have, or like I posted above, go to the parts store and get the fel-pro 4 piece. Two (ea) steel gaskets that and two (ea) rubber end seals, comes with a tube of RTV.
Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the reply oldcutlass I thought about removing it but this is the first Olds engine I have worked on so I was not sure just ordered the 4pc set. But here are some pics. Oh they make it look worse than it realy is with the flash.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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Yup thats the turkey tray! Wow very clean in there!! Be sure to follow the instructions on putting RTV around all the ports, in the corners, etc.... Buy an extra tube. BE VERY CAREFUL about getting the gasket locating bosses seated like Joe said above. Also DO NOT OVER TORQUE BOLTS as will squeeze the rubber front and rear seal out and you will have redo this again.

Good luck!
Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Yup thats the turkey tray!
No, that's the early 330 style baffle. Some 330s used a three piece gasket that had this baffle in the valley and separate sheet metal gaskets on the intake manifold. FelPro MS9947 is the correct factory-style embossed metal intake gasket if you want to retain this pan. Otherwise, remove the pan and use the later one-piece turkey tray gasket.

Old Mar 7, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Thanks Joe like I said this is my first Olds but I thought all Olds had the Turkey tray gasket. So this is original that is cool the car is certified by the state to have 33,000 miles but you never really know. Well like I said I ordered the Victor 15122 Gasket set that is what came off of it. I just could not read the numbers when it was in there.
Old Mar 9, 2011 | 04:41 PM
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For simple part like an intake gasket you should be getting them from a local supplier like NAPA instead of God knows what off EBAY. Makes it much easier to exchange if it's wrong. The forth posting on this thread told you what you would find under the manifold which is the stock HD heat shield. Just go down to NAPA and get the stock metal intake gaskets and a tube of black RTV and you will have no more problems they are easy to install the sides have a raised area the grabs into the heads to hold them in place and the end gaskets have **** to hold them also, they can't move when installing the manifold back on.
Old Mar 9, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Thanks for all of the responses the job is done and there appears to be no leaks.
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