Science vs manual labor
#1
Science vs manual labor
The rustinator in action, ( electrolytic) if your in a hurry don't try this at home, but if you got the time .............. ( one beer stands clear)........ the housing on the left was in for about 18 hours, and then about a 2 minute wire brush off in water. Now of course this does not replace metal or fill holes so your results may vary, but surface rust will be gone. As Ron Popiel would say "set it and forget it"
#3
The thread on the Hamb is of the restoration my husband is doing on a 1959 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible. Here is a link to it on Forwardlook.net: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/fo...ighlightmode=1
He is still restoring it, but he has put it on hold for a little bit while he builds the engine for my Hurst Olds.
He is still restoring it, but he has put it on hold for a little bit while he builds the engine for my Hurst Olds.
#6
Wasn't there a complete "how-to" thread on how to do this? If so, where?
I am VERY interested on doing this at home. I do not have a sandblaster (or room for one) so this would be an ideal way to derust small stuff.
I am VERY interested on doing this at home. I do not have a sandblaster (or room for one) so this would be an ideal way to derust small stuff.
#7
#10
Well, here is the parts list...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post63965
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post63965
#11
The thread on the Hamb is of the restoration my husband is doing on a 1959 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible. Here is a link to it on Forwardlook.net: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/fo...ighlightmode=1
He is still restoring it, but he has put it on hold for a little bit while he builds the engine for my Hurst Olds.
He is still restoring it, but he has put it on hold for a little bit while he builds the engine for my Hurst Olds.
#13
Right here...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676
I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676
I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...
#17
Right here...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676
I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676
I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...
Ok, thanks.
#18
Right here...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676
I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676
I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...
#19
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
I used this to make mine, jeesh I forgot I posted this science project a while back.
I used this to make mine, jeesh I forgot I posted this science project a while back.
#22
Looks like the only thing I'm missing is the small charger,I only have large floor models. Guess I,ll have to make a trip out to buy one.
I have mine set at 10 amps,
Hmmmm.... I seem to remember a song by Aerosmith about 10 amps
#23
[quote=a64olz;244900]Bulldog, it's not the size of your charger that counts, it's how you use it.
Seems I've heard something similar to that before,but I thought she was only kidding Great, that means I don't have to buy a new one. Thanks for all the information and all your help.
Seems I've heard something similar to that before,but I thought she was only kidding Great, that means I don't have to buy a new one. Thanks for all the information and all your help.
#26
From the article, the current is small, so you do not need a big charger.
It would remove the rust, but leave the intact paint and undercoat. you still might need to sandblast or chemical strip sections of it.
Should work well to derust them. Any other contaminents may not come off though.
It would remove the rust, but leave the intact paint and undercoat. you still might need to sandblast or chemical strip sections of it.
Should work well to derust them. Any other contaminents may not come off though.
#28
#29
#30
Yeah i never heard of it either thats why i asked.
what about chromed stuff with surface rust on them would this do okay. say like valve convers.
then i will quit asking questions.
#32
Wally's should have it - I will look next time I go.
As for chrome, I would find a scrap piece and immerse it as it it was rusty. Trial and error works well, but not on good parts.
#33
I guess I have to actually LOOK first... I always use "tide", so everything else is ignored.
Wally's should have it - I will look next time I go.
As for chrome, I would find a scrap piece and immerse it as it it was rusty. Trial and error works well, but not on good parts.
Wally's should have it - I will look next time I go.
As for chrome, I would find a scrap piece and immerse it as it it was rusty. Trial and error works well, but not on good parts.
good point.
thanks
alek
#34
John
M'Lisa's husband
#35
Well, here is the parts list...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post63965
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post63965
John
Last edited by tndrtgr; January 20th, 2011 at 09:53 PM.
#36
1. Battery Charger or other power source such as an arc welder, but battery charger is preferred in case a mistake is made due to it having a breaker.
2. Non-conductive container such as a bucket, plastic or fiberglass pool, or even plastic sheeting in a hole. As long as it holds water and is non-conductive.
3. Area to do this that is vented or open because this will produce hydrogen gas which is highly flammable (remeber the Hindenberg!).
4. Baking Soda + water. Stir baking soda into water until it will no longer mix and falls to the bottom after stirring (saturated) .
5. Find a donor piece of steel, this will "die" in the process. Old mufflers and scrap sheet metal that are rusted, or (like I used old) storage shelving work great for this.
6. Connect your positive lead to the donor steel.
7. Connect your negative lead to the part you want to clean.
8. Turn battery charger to 10 amps and the current draw is generally under 3 amps. As long as the draw is reading your part is being cleaned.
9. Your mixture will turn dirty brown with a foam on top, that is normal.
10. DO NOT SMOKE ANY WHERE AROUND THIS SET-UP. DO NOT DO THIS NEAR A HOT WATER HEATER OR ANYTHING THAT WILL IGNITE.
11. Time with current running depends on condition of part. Heavily rusted may take two weeks, while lightly pitted will only take one to two days. You can re-do this as many times as needed.
12. After removing, the mixture can be disposed of without any environmental concerns as it is just water, baking soda, and rust.
13. Your part will not look like much is done, but a good cleaning with a wire brush, wire wheel, or Scotch Brite will show that no rust remains.
THIS WILL NOT CURE PITTING OR DAMAGE DONE BY RUST, BUT WILL SHOW EVERYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF AND LEAVE YOU A CLEAN START TO DO THE REPAIRS WITH.
**Our power bill went up $20.00 for the month that I did the Fury (bathed for 2 weeks).
If you have any questions or are looking for parts please feel free to contact me at bigmauto@colusanet.com or leave a message on my work phone (530) 473-2225.
I am looking forward to the resurrection of M'Lisa's Hurst Olds!!
John (M'Lisa's husband)
2. Non-conductive container such as a bucket, plastic or fiberglass pool, or even plastic sheeting in a hole. As long as it holds water and is non-conductive.
3. Area to do this that is vented or open because this will produce hydrogen gas which is highly flammable (remeber the Hindenberg!).
4. Baking Soda + water. Stir baking soda into water until it will no longer mix and falls to the bottom after stirring (saturated) .
5. Find a donor piece of steel, this will "die" in the process. Old mufflers and scrap sheet metal that are rusted, or (like I used old) storage shelving work great for this.
6. Connect your positive lead to the donor steel.
7. Connect your negative lead to the part you want to clean.
8. Turn battery charger to 10 amps and the current draw is generally under 3 amps. As long as the draw is reading your part is being cleaned.
9. Your mixture will turn dirty brown with a foam on top, that is normal.
10. DO NOT SMOKE ANY WHERE AROUND THIS SET-UP. DO NOT DO THIS NEAR A HOT WATER HEATER OR ANYTHING THAT WILL IGNITE.
11. Time with current running depends on condition of part. Heavily rusted may take two weeks, while lightly pitted will only take one to two days. You can re-do this as many times as needed.
12. After removing, the mixture can be disposed of without any environmental concerns as it is just water, baking soda, and rust.
13. Your part will not look like much is done, but a good cleaning with a wire brush, wire wheel, or Scotch Brite will show that no rust remains.
THIS WILL NOT CURE PITTING OR DAMAGE DONE BY RUST, BUT WILL SHOW EVERYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF AND LEAVE YOU A CLEAN START TO DO THE REPAIRS WITH.
**Our power bill went up $20.00 for the month that I did the Fury (bathed for 2 weeks).
If you have any questions or are looking for parts please feel free to contact me at bigmauto@colusanet.com or leave a message on my work phone (530) 473-2225.
I am looking forward to the resurrection of M'Lisa's Hurst Olds!!
John (M'Lisa's husband)
Last edited by tndrtgr; January 20th, 2011 at 09:54 PM.
#37
Depends on your facilities and the condition of your frame. Sandblasting only removes the outside rust, while electrolysis removes all the rust. Once removed on either removal will need to be treated and a protectant re-applied.
If rust isn't removed on the inside, protectant does nothing. It just basically ends up on top of the rust granules and falls off.
You can also have your frame chemically stripped and dipped. They are easy to neutralize. Chemically stripping body parts, however, is not a good idea as the acids or bases used are near impossible to remove in areas where the sheet metal is stamped together. This will continue to rust and bubble up your brand new paint job.
John
If rust isn't removed on the inside, protectant does nothing. It just basically ends up on top of the rust granules and falls off.
You can also have your frame chemically stripped and dipped. They are easy to neutralize. Chemically stripping body parts, however, is not a good idea as the acids or bases used are near impossible to remove in areas where the sheet metal is stamped together. This will continue to rust and bubble up your brand new paint job.
John
#38
#39
You can always try it on a piece of junk or broken and non-usable trim.
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