The rustinator in action, ( electrolytic) if your in a hurry don't try this at home, but if you got the time .............. ( one beer stands clear)........ the housing on the left was in for about 18 hours, and then about a 2 minute wire brush off in water. Now of course this does not replace metal or fill holes so your results may vary, but surface rust will be gone. As Ron Popiel would say "set it and forget it"

 

Very cool. If you want to be impressed, search for the thread on H.A.M.B. where the guy did this to a whole Chrysler body.

 

The thread on the Hamb is of the restoration my husband is doing on a 1959 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible. Here is a link to it on Forwardlook.net: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/fo...ighlightmode=1

He is still restoring it, but he has put it on hold for a little bit while he builds the engine for my Hurst Olds.

 

Isn't sandblasting easier ??

So using electricity you removed all the rust ?

 

Sandblasting might be easier but it takes away metal too and sometimes that just isn't desired. Using electricity, just like what happens inside your car battery.

 

Wasn't there a complete "how-to" thread on how to do this? If so, where?
I am VERY interested on doing this at home. I do not have a sandblaster (or room for one) so this would be an ideal way to derust small stuff.

 

X2 on what Rob said.

 

Wow! Velly intersting!

 

x3 on what Rob said

M'Lisa, you are a lucky girl, and your husband is one talented/dedicated individual, I just looked at the thread, wow!

 

Well, here is the parts list...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post63965

 

All I can say is that I was completely blown away by your husband's work. He makes all the rest of us look bad.

 

What all is necessary for a setup?

 

Right here...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post244676

I have all the components in all areas of the garage and shed - now we need is a step-bystep assembly and instruction manual...

 

That is wild, soak a whole car. What is in the liquid,what would it cost to soak a car, just a guesstimate

 

Wow.

He is completely, utterly insane.

And I deeply respect that.

- Eric

 

I wonder if my neighbor would mind if I used his pool for a week. That would work great

 

Ok, thanks.

 

X2 On this

 

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

I used this to make mine, jeesh I forgot I posted this science project a while back.

 

Great - thanks for posting!
Time to get building the thing...

 

Looks like the only thing I'm missing is the small charger,I only have large floor models. Guess I,ll have to make a trip out to buy one.

 

Bulldog, it's not the size of your charger that counts, it's how you use it.
I have mine set at 10 amps,
Hmmmm.... I seem to remember a song by Aerosmith about 10 amps

 

[quote=a64olz;244900]Bulldog, it's not the size of your charger that counts, it's how you use it.


Seems I've heard something similar to that before,but I thought she was only kidding Great, that means I don't have to buy a new one. Thanks for all the information and all your help.

 

would it be better to do this to a frame than sandblasting

 

What about headers, do u think it will work good with headers?

 

From the article, the current is small, so you do not need a big charger.

It would remove the rust, but leave the intact paint and undercoat. you still might need to sandblast or chemical strip sections of it.

Should work well to derust them. Any other contaminents may not come off though.

 

okay thanks

 

Sweet i will try it.

what is the stuff i put in with the water? arm and hammer, baking soda?

 

Article said 'washing soda' (never heard of that), or in a pinch you can sub baking soda.

 

Yeah i never heard of it either thats why i asked.

what about chromed stuff with surface rust on them would this do okay. say like valve convers.
then i will quit asking questions.

 

I found the Arm&Hammer washing soda at a Kroger food store, I had never heard of this before either.

 

I guess I have to actually LOOK first... I always use "tide", so everything else is ignored.
Wally's should have it - I will look next time I go.

As for chrome, I would find a scrap piece and immerse it as it it was rusty. Trial and error works well, but not on good parts.

 

good point.

thanks
alek

 

Reverse eloctrolysis will remove all the rust depending on the time, amperage, and electrolyte mixture. No good metal is removed in the process, but cleaning is required afterwards. It will not remove total paint, undercoat or substrate unless it has been weakened by corrosion.

John

M'Lisa's husband

 

We used regular Arm and Hammer Baking Soda, of course the clerk at Walmart probably thought we were in to some new kind of dope (LOL)!

John

 

1. Battery Charger or other power source such as an arc welder, but battery charger is preferred in case a mistake is made due to it having a breaker.

2. Non-conductive container such as a bucket, plastic or fiberglass pool, or even plastic sheeting in a hole. As long as it holds water and is non-conductive.

3. Area to do this that is vented or open because this will produce hydrogen gas which is highly flammable (remeber the Hindenberg!).

4. Baking Soda + water. Stir baking soda into water until it will no longer mix and falls to the bottom after stirring (saturated) .

5. Find a donor piece of steel, this will "die" in the process. Old mufflers and scrap sheet metal that are rusted, or (like I used old) storage shelving work great for this.

6. Connect your positive lead to the donor steel.

7. Connect your negative lead to the part you want to clean.

8. Turn battery charger to 10 amps and the current draw is generally under 3 amps. As long as the draw is reading your part is being cleaned.

9. Your mixture will turn dirty brown with a foam on top, that is normal.

10. DO NOT SMOKE ANY WHERE AROUND THIS SET-UP. DO NOT DO THIS NEAR A HOT WATER HEATER OR ANYTHING THAT WILL IGNITE.

11. Time with current running depends on condition of part. Heavily rusted may take two weeks, while lightly pitted will only take one to two days. You can re-do this as many times as needed.

12. After removing, the mixture can be disposed of without any environmental concerns as it is just water, baking soda, and rust.

13. Your part will not look like much is done, but a good cleaning with a wire brush, wire wheel, or Scotch Brite will show that no rust remains.

THIS WILL NOT CURE PITTING OR DAMAGE DONE BY RUST, BUT WILL SHOW EVERYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF AND LEAVE YOU A CLEAN START TO DO THE REPAIRS WITH.

**Our power bill went up $20.00 for the month that I did the Fury (bathed for 2 weeks).

If you have any questions or are looking for parts please feel free to contact me at bigmauto@colusanet.com or leave a message on my work phone (530) 473-2225.

I am looking forward to the resurrection of M'Lisa's Hurst Olds!!

John (M'Lisa's husband)

 

Depends on your facilities and the condition of your frame. Sandblasting only removes the outside rust, while electrolysis removes all the rust. Once removed on either removal will need to be treated and a protectant re-applied.

If rust isn't removed on the inside, protectant does nothing. It just basically ends up on top of the rust granules and falls off.

You can also have your frame chemically stripped and dipped. They are easy to neutralize. Chemically stripping body parts, however, is not a good idea as the acids or bases used are near impossible to remove in areas where the sheet metal is stamped together. This will continue to rust and bubble up your brand new paint job.

John

 

This would work great as long as you have a large enough container for them to be submerged in.

John

 

I have not tried it on plated metal, but I did try it on some painted beer cans from the 30's. The rust came off as well as some paint.

You can always try it on a piece of junk or broken and non-usable trim.

 

Thank all of you for your comments on using this technique. I was so surprised when M'Lisa showed this thread to me.

John