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Rockers still clicking on my 350

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Old August 14th, 2011, 07:30 AM
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Rockers still clicking on my 350

I need some help and advice please. I have a 72' with a 350 Rocket. I had the engine rebuilt last year and had roller rockers installed. A good friend of mine adjusted them for me. I drove the car for a while and noticed they were getting noisy again. He adjusted them again. Drove it for another 100 miles or so and yep they started getting noisy again. I replaced the rocker nuts last week and Randy re-adjusted them again. I was coming back from a car show this past Saturday and I could hear them again.

Can anyone give me some ideas on why this is happening? I want to head over to the Dream Cruise next week but with it ticking like it is I am not real confident in it at the moment. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Joe
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Old August 14th, 2011, 09:54 AM
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Do you use a polylock, or some kind of crimpnut?
Whose studs do you have on it?
Some studs only work with poly locks (ARP's for example), and some studs only work with crimp nuts.
Pictures are even better.
Whaddya have?
Jim
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Old August 14th, 2011, 01:53 PM
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Hi Jim, Thanks for the help. We replaced them with crimp nuts. They have sort of an oblong shape on the top of the nut so when they are tightened down they grip better. The fasteners for the engine are ARP.

Joe
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Old August 14th, 2011, 02:11 PM
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If they are ARP. According to their website you are not supposed to use OEM style lock nuts with ARP studs.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 02:25 PM
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use the posi locks from prw they have a set screw at the top so that it wont come loose once you tighten the set screw with a little thread locker the light stuff not the high strength and you should be good ., or use thread locker on what you got i think the green stuff from permatex or loctite is the weakest stregnth
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Old August 14th, 2011, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
use the posi locks from prw they have a set screw at the top so that it wont come loose once you tighten the set screw with a little thread locker the light stuff not the high strength and you should be good ., or use thread locker on what you got i think the green stuff from permatex or loctite is the weakest stregnth

Thanks Coppercutlass. I was at a show this weekend and was discussing this with a friend of mine. He also mentioned a set screw set up deal. I will try the permatex on the existing nuts. My engine guy is home Monday so I will tell him what I found. Thank you very much for the help and advice. It's people like you guys that make this site as good as it is.

Joe
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Old August 18th, 2011, 03:32 AM
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Strange the tappet's would go out of adjustment that soon. I've done my share of engine builds, with my current 461 Olds having Poly Lock nut's on it. Thing's been holding true since the beginning. How rebuilt is your engine, as had some cars over the years where the hydraulic lifters started hanging up. The Rislone additive really works for clogged lifters, but gotta get it out of there within the first 100 miles. Probably see you at the cruise on Sat, as have some friends set up with a Vette club at the Burger King between 13 & 14 mile.

Last edited by DeltaPace77; August 18th, 2011 at 03:36 AM.
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Old August 19th, 2011, 06:52 PM
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If you must use crimp nuts, get Pioneer studs!
You can not use crimps with ARP hardware, they will peel off the threads.
They were made to only be used with poly locks.
There are some real short poly locks available if you shop around, if clearance is an issue.
Make sure that the crimp nuts did not trash the threads on those studs.
You should pull them all, look real close.
Jim

Last edited by Warhead; August 19th, 2011 at 06:56 PM.
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