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If you look, his firing order is the same. He just put his distributor in a different spot. You could have the distributor point anywhere for #1 as long as you are in the #1 firing position and the firing order is correct on the distributor cap. I have never seen 4 screws on a distributor cap.
Been too long since I worked on an HEI. Heck my 54 has clips on it.
I was looking at the dwell meters and timing lights on the ebay link. I have an old Sears dwell meter similar to the one listed there for $19.99. I have had it for probably 35 years and it still works. I still have what is left of the box it came in.
Last edited by redoldsman; January 3rd, 2018 at 06:53 PM.
Yes the one I posted is for HEI not points like you have. Use the 2 screw distributor diagram, but again check for compression on #1, then check each spark plug wire per firing order just to make sure something didn't get mixed up.
If it was running decent before you started the work you'll probably run OK again. easy to loose track of timing, wiring , etc believe me I know..
I tried to reset the timing now it won't fire again ... I'm GETTING Spark still but I guess I have the timing off . I'll figure it out ... plus the gas is spitting out of the the top of the carb for some reason
I pull the distributor out. Set the notch on the harmonic balancer to the (0) then I install the distributor and the notch that's on the distributor I put the number one plug to that notch. And continue with the firing order on all the wires
I tried to reset the timing now it won't fire again ... I'm GETTING Spark still but I guess I have the timing off . I'll figure it out ... plus the gas is spitting out of the the top of the carb for some reason
Connect a timing light to #1 wire.
Disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and plug the line, leave advance connection open to the air.
Make sure you are one the the #1 compression stroke, you can even ballpark this by taking out the spark plug and holding your thumb over the hole, have someone just "tick" the starter little by little until you feel the pressure, then look at the harmonic balancer for the timing groove and compare to the the timing tab. Pull off the distributor and look where the rotor is, it should point to the #1 plug wire or just a bit towards #8 position.
Try to start it. if it fires see where the groove on the Harmonic balancer is compared to timing mark. You will probably have to move the distributor a little clockwise or counter clockwise to get it timing right.
Even so, you can just time by ear once it's running, move the distributor one way, and then the other the engine will speed up when you are advancing the timing. Old rule of thumb was to get the engine to speed up a bit , then back off slightly. Do not move the distributor very much. if you do not get it to run, or run right. like another said you may be one gear tooth off or so, to get it to run right. Why the rotor pointing to #1 while on compression stroke is the key..
reconnect vacuum line to distributor vacuum advance. YOu should notice a slight change faster in engine running speed. This shows the advance is working.
Also:
Yes vacuum leaks can hose you as well. If the intake to head seal is leaking you'll never get the right fuel mixture, I've had these gaskets slip down while assembling... the only vacuum hose you really need is the one to the distributor vacuum advance, you can plug all the others while you troubleshoot and get it running right.
Last edited by FStanley; January 4th, 2018 at 06:40 PM.
Put the distributor back where you had it. That is not how you set timing, you need a timing light. There are many videos on how to do this on youtube to give you an idea. You also need to set your dwell before setting timing. You need to buy a tach/dwell meter, a timing light, and a vacuum gauge to do this properly. Do not follow the suggestion of setting it by ear, it is not accurate and you can damage your engine.
Make sure you are one the the #1 compression stroke, you can even ballpark this by taking out the spark plug and holding your thumb over the hole, have someone just "tick" the starter little by little until you feel the pressure, then look at the harmonic balancer for the timing groove and compare to the the timing tab. Pull off the distributor and look where the rotor is, it should point to the #1 plug wire or just a bit towards #8 position.
Try to start it. if it fires see where the groove on the Harmonic balancer is compared to timing mark. You will probably have to move the distributor a little clockwise or counter clockwise to get it timing right.
Even so, you can just time by ear once it's running, move the distributor one way, and then the other the engine will speed up when you are advancing the timing. Old rule of thumb was to get the engine to speed up a bit , then back off slightly. Do not move the distributor very much. if you do not get it to run, or run right. like another said you may be one gear tooth off or so, to get it to run right. Why the rotor pointing to #1 while on compression stroke is the key..
Yes vacuum leaks can hose you as well. If the intake to head seal is leaking you'll never get the right fuel mixture, I've had these gaskets slip done while assembling... the only vacuum hose you really need is the one to the distributor vacuum advance, you can plug all the others while you troubleshoot and get it running right.
Thanks that really made a light builb go off... now the distributor vacuum advance should be plugged where ?
when you get it on top dead center with compression i bet your rotor is gonna be 180 degress off.the "now gas is spitting out of the carb"is a good indication.backfiring is another.
Ok I have it at compression stroke I put a little bit of tissue in there and waited until it spit it out and then I set whereever the striker on the distributor was at one. Per picture
Because it ensures you have them in the proper firing order as that's the way the rotor turns. You can lift the distributor and turn the rotor so its pointing to the proper #1 position, push it back down, and move the #1 wire or just wire it from where it is now.
Because it ensures you have them in the proper firing order as that's the way the rotor turns. You can lift the distributor and turn the rotor so its pointing to the proper #1 position and move the #1 wire or just wire it from where it is now.
Ok so I'll leave it for now should I try to start it ?
when you get it on top dead center with compression i bet your rotor is gonna be 180 degress off.the "now gas is spitting out of the carb"is a good indication.backfiring is another.
I think your right! I got it back firing up but when I don't have a lot of room to retard the timing it stops at the Vacuum advance plug and won't turn any further it begins to run better when turned but can't turn it enough to tweek it right
If you do that the wires will not be referenced on the distributor cap like they are above. The correct way would be to move raise the distributor up and move it over one notch and drop it back in. Rotating plug wires will work however.
If #1 piston is at the top , pull the distributor out and re-install with the rotor pointing to the number 1 spark plug like you did earlier in the thread.
Eric
o.k. just where are you at??balancer mark where it is in that pic is good.it's towards the high end of advance.now just set the rotor to line up with the pin on the right side of the little window.BUT you will want to rotate the distributor clockwise some more when it is out this will give the advance more room to retard the timing before it hits the intake.
Wire the distributor with #1 being where the rotor is pointing to now.
Eric, I totally disagree. The distributor should be wired with the #1 plug wire above the window on the cap. I think all he had to do was raise the distributor up slightly and move it over to the next groove on the distributor gear. He didn't need to take it all the way out of the car. He is just trying to get it to where the vacuum advance doesn't hit the firewall where he can set the timing properly.
Eric, I totally disagree. The distributor should be wired with the #1 plug wire above the window on the cap. I think all he had to do was raise the distributor up slightly and move it over to the next groove on the distributor gear. He didn't need to take it all the way out of the car. He is just trying to get it to where the vacuum advance doesn't hit the firewall where he can set the timing properly.
Ok I re did it all I'm about to show pictures before I even try to start it give me one second
If you look at the second picture the tap on the distributor is sitting right on the number one plug ....the way the timing is I put my thumb on the (1) spark plug hole until I felt the pressure push it away... I had the wife to tick the car until I felt it... it went a couple passes of suction then blew my thumb away from the hole that's when I told her to stop. At that point I set everything up as the pictures show... is this correct before I even try to start it
Last edited by tim30; January 5th, 2018 at 09:04 PM.
o.k. just where are you at??balancer mark where it is in that pic is good.it's towards the high end of advance.now just set the rotor to line up with the pin on the right side of the little window.BUT you will want to rotate the distributor clockwise some more when it is out this will give the advance more room to retard the timing before it hits the intake.
your plug wires are set up for a clockwise rotation olds rotates counterclockwise.number 1 is correct but then 8 should be on the other side of the window.you have number 2 there im assuming can;t see where pass side wires go.but then you have 5 and 7. and you can see number 3 is also in correct spot in corelation to clockwise rotation
January 3rd, 2018, 02:42 PM
