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Put these in, hook the wire from the coil to them and if all else is correct, the car should start. They are usually gapped close enough out of the box for the car to start. If the car does not start, there are only two things left to do. (1.) replace the coil and (2.) get somebody to fix the car. Sorry Tim, if it does not start now or after doing numbers 1 nd 2, it is time to quit. This will be the 160th post on this problem and there is nothing else anybody on here can offer. Anything further will be a waste of time.
I hope everyone here had a good time bringing the new year in. I think Tim's in good shape here now Red, everything seems to be in place other than the new set of points and condenser I believe.
I think he will get er' fired up once the new parts are in, just a bit of tweaking after that.
I'll be here for the fire up, cheering you on Tim., Put-er' ther,,, you never gave up!!
Oh I commend him also 76olds. I already told him I am waiting for the response that say it is running. I am guessing he doesn't have a dwell meter but this is another day after the car is running.
Oh I commend him also 76olds. I already told him I am waiting for the response that say it is running. I am guessing he doesn't have a dwell meter but this is another day after the car is running.
I have gotten a cold being in that cold garage everyday. Thanks guys a lot I go back to work tomorrow and with my hours I won't have as much time but I do believe it will all work out I will try to get the points in tomorrow and hopefully get her fired up I will be reporting back with the good news thanks again
cold! cold! you want cold it's -22 here right now in n.w. iowa
Perdy darn cold up here just north or Toronto Ontario as well, The past week has been bitter.
Cherokeepeople,,,You provided Tim with some good information here. Although this thread went a distance, many guys in the future will find this informative and helpful with the photo's Tim took the time to add.
Everyone that contributed to his thread did one heck of a job, this is what this site was built on and continues to build on.
@Red, I know you were just as anxious reading your post, your were ready to hear "I got er' fired up and running"
We have so many good guys on this site, this thread proves that.
I'm grateful for that !
All the best in 2018 !!
Cheers
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; January 1st, 2018 at 09:40 PM.
with all the cranking,as long as he wasn't pumping the gas while cranking he should be alright.engines not turning over fast enough to create enough vacuum to suck fuel thru the venturi's.but fire extinguisher is a good idea,should have one handy period.ya never know when chaos or mayhem will ensue.
thanks eric!yeah this last week has been something.broke all time records the last 2 nights.-26 both nights.
as for this thread.yes it has been long and being a keyboard mechanic can be frustrating at times but in the end when it's running we can all feel a little gratification that "we"as a whole helped tim.
Beings you aren't up to date on a thirty five year old points system this may may help you in the future with smoked points. Points will generally burn if the key is left on run/ start mode when the car isn't actually running (like listing to the radio). Not a problem if you go to the ACC mode but if juice is going through the points and they are closed they will smoke in about a minute..... Just a thought.... Tedd
awesome man! ya know.now that i look back when i told ya to get a multimeter i should have told you to get one that reads dwell also.cuz now ya need one to set the dwell.
If its running terribly rough and you can't get the timing in by ear to idle properly initially, also gutless when you put it in drive. Your distributor is likely out 1 place.
I would try moving the plugs ahead CW 1 place on the distributor.
It shouldn't be out more than that since the rotor was pointing in the #1 direction.
If its running terribly rough and you can't get the timing in by ear to idle properly initially, also gutless when you put it in drive. Your distributor is likely out 1 place.
I would try moving the plugs ahead CW 1 place on the distributor.
It shouldn't be out more than that since the rotor was pointing in the #1 direction.
Beings you aren't up to date on a thirty five year old points system this may may help you in the future with smoked points. Points will generally burn if the key is left on run/ start mode when the car isn't actually running (like listing to the radio). Not a problem if you go to the ACC mode but if juice is going through the points and they are closed they will smoke in about a minute..... Just a thought.... Tedd
Thanks for this good information. I never knew that
awesome man! ya know.now that i look back when i told ya to get a multimeter i should have told you to get one that reads dwell also.cuz now ya need one to set the dwell.
Also guys I think it's running that way because of a lot of vacuum lines also do any of you have the diagram to the vacuum lines handy. it's all stock so anything that's showing stock would work
If you feel as thou you can't get the timing in close enough with turning the distributor until it idles better, then ,
No don't turn the distributor anymore, just move the plug wires on the distributor ahead from 1-2, 2-3 etc.
You'll need to get the vacuum lines hook up first thou, so everything may be OK, someone here should be able to post the Vav line routing. I'd like to help, however, I've only got a 1976 chassis service manual.
Last edited by 76olds; January 2nd, 2018 at 05:22 PM.
If you feel as thou you can't get the timing in close enough with turning the distributor until it idles better, then ,
No don't turn the distributor anymore, just move the plug wires on the distributor ahead from 1-2, 2-3 etc.
You'll need to get the vacuum lines hook up first thou, so everything may be OK, someone here should be able to post the line routing.
It's ALIVE ITS ALLLLLLIIIVVVVEEEEEEEE���������������������������� ������������������������
That was the message I was waiting for. You may very well have some vacuum leaks. Plug all the vacuum lines on the carb and go from there. Start hooking them up one by one. You can also spray some carb cleaner on the intake manifold and around the base of the carb. If it temporarily gets better, you have a vacuum leak. You are on the 20 yard line headed for the end zone with 1st and 10.
Tim, the vacuum routing photo's are taken from my 1976 chassis service manual, I hope it can help you a little until others can post the correct on for your 71'
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; January 2nd, 2018 at 05:55 PM.
That was the message I was waiting for. You may very well have some vacuum leaks. Plug all the vacuum lines on the carb and go from there. Start hooking them up one by one. You can also spray some carb cleaner on the intake manifold and around the base of the carb. If it temporarily gets better, you have a vacuum leak. You are on the 20 yard line headed for the end zone with 1st and 10.
Thanks Red You been very supportive since day 1 and my appreciation is more then words can say!
Tim, the vacuum routing photo's are taken from my 1976 chassis service manual, I hope it can help you a little until others can post the correct on for your 71'
Eric
Thanks for the post! That top one on the second picture looks more like mine but the puts is cut off
you're lost you have to find #1 Top dead center, and not just when it is the top of the cylinder, you need to find compression stroke. Then align rotor to #1 position on the distributor from looking above it(see diagram), then check each wire from distributor to spark plug per firing order.
if you have spark , you should fire up. you will need to move the distributor a bit clockwise to get it to run good.
But you need to do the basics otherwise you're just chasing your tail.
The wire you have in your hand that has two wires connected together at the spade goes to the + terminal on the coil. FYI One of the wires goes to the starter(when you start the car, it applies full 12VDC via the starter solenoid when cranking) , the other wire goes down to a connector on the firewall , the other side is the fuse box. This wire is a 1.35 Ohm resistance wire to lessen the voltage to the coil to help prevent points burning out(the normal running voltage).
Last edited by FStanley; January 3rd, 2018 at 01:05 PM.
The wire you have in your hand that has two wires connected together at the spade goes to the + terminal on the coil. FYI One of the wires goes to the starter(when you start the car, it applies full 12VDC via the starter solenoid when cranking) , the other wire goes down to a connector on the firewall , the other side is the fuse box. This wire is a 1.35 Ohm resistance wire to lessen the voltage to the coil to help prevent points burning out(the normal running voltage).
thanks but all this has been confirmed and running
you're lost you have to find #1 Top dead center, and not just when it is the top of the cylinder, you need to find compression stroke. Then align rotor to #1 position on the distributor from looking above it(see diagram), then check each wire from distributor to spark plug per firing order.
if you have spark , you should fire up. you will need to move the distributor a bit clockwise to get it to run good.
But you need to do the basics otherwise you're just chasing your tail.
Why is yours a totally different picture then the one I have for the firing order
you're lost you have to find #1 Top dead center, and not just when it is the top of the cylinder, you need to find compression stroke. Then align rotor to #1 position on the distributor from looking above it(see diagram), then check each wire from distributor to spark plug per firing order.
if you have spark , you should fire up. you will need to move the distributor a bit clockwise to get it to run good.
But you need to do the basics otherwise you're just chasing your tail.
Also my distributor doesn't have four phillip strews it only have two
January 1st, 2018, 02:45 PM
