Before I go one last thing here, if you have spark, you may be 1 position out if the rotor didn't line up just correct with the number 1 plug, move the distributor like Oldscutlass mentioned until it fires up. If its running really ruff just move the plugs wires clockwise one position, then get the timing in." Only if its out 1 placement"
Cheers
Eric

 

ok will do

 

Thanks Happy New Year

 

Im not getting spark

 

try a new set of points,i bet you burned em out messing with the wires.

 

OK ill go grap some tomorrow

 

Don't forget a condenser.

 

So get the condenser and points... Do I need anything else for setting it??

 

The points need to be set at the high step of the dist. cam. I always use a dwell meter
at 28-30*. A feeler gauge will work too.

 

Ok thanks. How do I know the one I have isnt working or burned. Should I remove it now to inspect>?

 

Good question. I have had condensers go bad and the points won't spark.
That may be all that is the matter as well. If you change points, change the condenser.

 

Ok thanks

 

the old delco number is d1007.this is the points/condenser all in one.remove the rotor and loosen the 2 screws holding the points a couple turns BUT do not take them out,reason:you drop em below the point plate they are hell to fish out.also there will be a little capsule with the points this is the grease for the rubbing block,put a little and i mean a little on the edge of the rubbing block the rest behind it so it can rub off on the cam of the distributor.alot of times if they are preset you can put the points in and press them against the screws and tighten and be real close on dwell to the point it will start and run.

 

Ok I will be doing this tomorrow but your warnings got me on my toes so ill be careful

 

there is the old saying"you learn from your mistakes"this may be frustrating as hell but the knowledge you gain from it will be priceless.electrical gremlins can make you pull hair,believe me.just restored an 85 el camino this spring got it together and could not for the life of me get the left front turn signal to work.fought that thing off and on for 2 weeks.finally thought to change the socket and sure as heck that was it,but testing with a test light and meter said it was good.

 

#1 doesn't have to be pointed at the #1 cylinder; it just has to line up with a terminal on the cap and THAT terminal is where you start the firing order COUNTER CLOCKWISE ON AN OLDS.
Have you verified power to the coil?
Power to the points?
Also, 0* is TDC, but it'll run better once fired, if you start at 16.

 

Pick up one of these when you get a chance. One of the best tools you can have.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...9aACCEM&adurl=

 

I lined it up to Terminal one on the Dis Cap.

Im getting power to the coil as I tested the power and the ground that running from the Dis.

Power to Points?

 

Very True will order tomorrow Its cheap too thats a great deal

 

This is very true and truely a honor to get to learn it and I know itll all pay off once I get her running again. Im taking everything everybody saying and trying my best to do it correctly and in order. Happy New Year to everybody as its soon coming

 

sooner for you!i'm in central time zone happy new year to you to and thanks for your service.

 

I am also!Its 9:47 here

 

what if you swap to an electronic deal, like pertonix.
i have the crane version and never had an issue with setting up anything, dont want to sound stupid but i am with points kits.

 

oh k thought all florida was eastern.

 

Nope not the Pan Handle..... which shocked me also when I moved here

 

The car was running before he pulled the distributor the change the intake manifold gaskets. I am not sure he should start throwing parts at it. Granted he may have burned the points but if was not getting any power to them that would not be the case. At the end of the day however, it might make sense to replace the points and the coil. At least you know they are good. If that does not fix it, it is time to call somebody to help. I don't think there is anything else we can recommend.

 

Very true thanks for the recommendation because I didnt wanna just start buying things...I didnt even know the points could get burned and not work. I never work with them before so I know this will be a task also

 

he was trying everything.so if he put the hot wire to the coil on the - side with the wire to the points and tried to start even with just key on he would have full 12 volts to points,they don't live long with 12 volts.

 

I'm late to this game and I'm not going to start recommending anything in the way of parts(you have many experts who know there way around a distributor here already) but when you finally get that engine running if mine I would start replacing all the wires from around or near that distributor.Someone has hacked that wiring in the past badly and It has caused a lot confusion and probably- maybe some of your issues with starting. It sorta looks like there might have been a major short there at sometime... Just a thought ...Tedd

And as a after thought... I've always been able to see if points were burnt just by looking at the contact pads or placing a screwdriver across them and see if they sparked. If not work backwards till you get juice.... Best of luck and a Happy New Year.

 

Thanks for the comment. The wires are how they came from the factory. They were taped by me. They are all the way they should be I tapped them to give it a fresher look because the old tape was dry and brittle. I just tapped them with the job I did to them this past week all are tapped the way they were together from the factory I didn't going any together or crossed any

 

Wait I just tried this with the key in (on) position and the black cord on the meter running to the (-) side of the coil and the red to the (+) side of the coil and Im not getting 12 volts with all wires hooked up on coil

 

Because the points are probably open. If your doing any kind of voltage measurement the black lead from the meter needs to be connected to the engine block.

 

Oh Well Im on the way to get new ones

 

Did you check the wiring between the coil and your points and the ground inside the distributor?

 

No how do I check

 

back in post 83 i said how to test these.but again.pull cap remove wire from - side of coil.with meter set to ohms touch one lead to the wire from the coil the other lead to the screw holding the wire onto the points,meter should read 0

 

Yes it's reading 0

 

o.k. its good.did you get some points

 

Yes but I would be a lie I said I wasn't intimidated

 

easy to do only hard if you make it hard.as i said unscrew the 2 holddown screws but DO NOT remove them.they will need to be out 2 or 3 turns,the notch on the bottom of the points "in that pic"will set over the screw first then rotate it around and get the other one in its notch it will slide under the second screw but takes a little finesse.once there press the points towards the main shaft it just needs to bottom against the back screw so you don't need to press that hard,then tighten.put the wire back on the points, rotor and cap on make sure all coil wires are where they need to be and see if it starts.if not pull a wire and check for spark.