I have a 1983 Delta 88 Royale with the 5.0/307 and ive been having some issues with being able to drive it lately. I believe it could possibly be the neutral safety switch, but I'm not sure where its located. Can anyone help?

 

On top of the steering column at the base near the firewall.

 

I don't think it has one, ignition can only be turned to start when the column is lined up which is in neutral or park, linkage may need adjusting.

Johnny

 

^^^THIS!!! Read the Chassis Service Manual. By the late-1970s GM had replaced the NSS with a mechanical "blocking" feature in the steering column that prevents the actuating rod from the lock cylinder to the switch from moving unless the shifter collar is in PARK or NEUTRAL. There IS a switch on the steering column, but it is used as the backup lamp switch and on cars with a computer it provides the Park/Neutral signal for the purpose of controlling idle speed. It is NOT wired into the starter circuit in any way.

 

And Ford had that feature way back in 1971, when they went to column mounted ignition switches. 'Course Ford had had so many issues with neutral start switches they probably thought eliminating the thing was a grand idea.


I've seen my Uncle Gene doing what he called the "Galaxie Gyration" many times trying to start his Fords. Turn the key with one hand and pull and wiggle the shift lever with the other till you'd hit the sweet spot and the Ford would start... Wasn't a big deal if the Ford had the switch on left side of the dash, but later ones where it moved to the right side...

 

Are you 100% sure that it is just for the reverse lights? If that were the case then it would only need the one connection, not all of this.



I just seems to me like a standard neutral safety switch, but I could be way off base.

 

I'm 120% sure that if you trace all of those wires, not one of them will be connected to the starter circuit. Again, in addition to the backup lights, this switch provides a PARK/NEUTRAL signal. It also is used in the seatbelt buzzer circuit.

 

That's interesting.

 

Maybe a better question to ask would be what can cause my problem... My car idles great in park and neutral, but when i put it into gear and try to move it, it just stalls and cuts off. What can cause tht?

 

Incorrectly adjusted carb, sticking TCC, vacuum leak, or a host of other things.

The one thing for certain is that it ISN'T related to the NSS.

 

Can it be caused by bad fuel pump?

 

Unlikely. The fuel pump is unaffected by the car being in PARK or DRIVE. If this were a problem with stalling out at high speed, then maybe, but not as you've described the problem.

 

Ok. Well i have found numerous sites tht say how to tune the qjet but nothing in those sites say anything about the mixture control solenoid. What should i adjust tht to?

 

As we've pointed out here time and again, if you are trying to tune the CCC system, you MUST follow the adjustment process in the Chassis Service Manual EXACTLY. Take any short cuts and you will just be chasing your tail. Don't even think about using a resource that isn't the factory manual as a guide.

If you don't have a CSM, get one. Also, be absolutely sure that the vacuum hoses are all in good shape and connected properly. Be sure that the devices that are not monitored by the computer (like the air switching and diverter valves for the A.I.R. system) are functioning properly.

 

I have deleted the ac and smog systems.

 

What does that mean, exactly? The "smog systems" are somewhat integrated into the system. For example, the map of A/F ratio and spark advance depends on having a functioning EGR valve. The mixture runs lean in the midrange and increases the advance curve. The diluted mixture from the EGR allows this, which increases part throttle fuel economy. Disabling EGR typically causes pinging on the 307s at part throttle. Since the EGR is only active at part throttle cruise, disabling it does exactly nothing for performance.

Same sort of thing for the EFE valve on the exhaust, the evap canister, and the vacuum break diaphragms on the carb. Deleting them only hurts driveabiltiy with no improvement to performance.

 

I meant the smog, or i guess the air, pump