Fuel filter
#2
If it is still equipped with the original Rochester Quadrajet carburetor ... it is in the carburetor. If you remove the fuel inlet line from the front of the carburetor, you will be able to remove the fuel filter from there. If they added an after market one it will most likely be between the outlet fuel pump line and the inlet carb line. Pretty simple.
#7
yeah, if it ain't broke.... don't "fix" it.
Filter:
HOLD the filter housing / fuel inlet with yr 1" wrench
here's an example of a steampunk line type 1" wrench
12037_WRENCH_C4FitsCarbs.jpg
but any wrench will do. Use a quality [costs at least $20- Snap-on, Mac, Matco, maybe Craftsman- NOT Harbor Fright $10 the SET wrenches] 5/8" LINE WRENCH to loosen the line nut. Once loose, any wrench can be used. Wiggle it back n forth as needed if you have rust like I do. Nut must rotate on the line. Unscrew the nut, perhaps remove the lower end too if needed, and pull the line out of the inlet fitting, and pull it aside. Then loosen the inlet/ filter housing with the 1" wrench and remove it. Note that this process might strip the threads in the carb body. Remove the filter and spring.
Match new one to old. They come long and short, and short sintered metal. Most have long type. Put it in right way 'round- protrusions should prevent incorrect install. Spring between filter and carb of course to keep filter pressed against the inlet unless clogged.
Reverse the removal. PUT SOME ANTI SIEZE [silvery screw snot] on the threads to they last longer. Put some on the TUBE where the nut resides, and some on the nut threads as well.
This is no place for tape or sealer of any type- The seal is effected by the inverted flare, not the threads. Oh, and the thin gasket you will find on the fuel inlet/ filter housing.
The right tools will make this job a breeze. Poor quality wrenches will round off the nut, and destroy things.
Filter:
HOLD the filter housing / fuel inlet with yr 1" wrench
here's an example of a steampunk line type 1" wrench
12037_WRENCH_C4FitsCarbs.jpg
but any wrench will do. Use a quality [costs at least $20- Snap-on, Mac, Matco, maybe Craftsman- NOT Harbor Fright $10 the SET wrenches] 5/8" LINE WRENCH to loosen the line nut. Once loose, any wrench can be used. Wiggle it back n forth as needed if you have rust like I do. Nut must rotate on the line. Unscrew the nut, perhaps remove the lower end too if needed, and pull the line out of the inlet fitting, and pull it aside. Then loosen the inlet/ filter housing with the 1" wrench and remove it. Note that this process might strip the threads in the carb body. Remove the filter and spring.
Match new one to old. They come long and short, and short sintered metal. Most have long type. Put it in right way 'round- protrusions should prevent incorrect install. Spring between filter and carb of course to keep filter pressed against the inlet unless clogged.
Reverse the removal. PUT SOME ANTI SIEZE [silvery screw snot] on the threads to they last longer. Put some on the TUBE where the nut resides, and some on the nut threads as well.
This is no place for tape or sealer of any type- The seal is effected by the inverted flare, not the threads. Oh, and the thin gasket you will find on the fuel inlet/ filter housing.
The right tools will make this job a breeze. Poor quality wrenches will round off the nut, and destroy things.
#9
A well set up Q-Jet will basically spank any other carb design on the street. Edelbrock carbs were once Q-Jets, but are now simpler Carter AFB designs. No matter what you do, no carb is going to be properly set up for your combination right out of the box, and is going to require some tuning to get it right. Unfortunately, Q-Jets can be quite difficult, but well worth the effort. Get hold of Lars Grimsrud v8fastcars@msn.com and he'll send you his Q-Jet tuning papers. A big pile to digest, but will get you in the right direction.
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