Allan R really does she even have a carb she has that CRAPPY BUICK CARB in it MEMBER..

.me gigglin at you AllanR..

whew I needed a good laugh mannnnn

DnD is the 72 cutlass

 

How old are those spark plug wires?

- Eric

 

EDIT, sorry I didn't realize you were talking about the Cutlass. Check your CSM. The plugs should be around .040 gap. Try adjusting to that and see if it smooths out.

 

- The wires I HAVE not changed yet.....
got my hands up on my head so you dont smack me on my head lol..

But u know I've had a few hands moving the vacuums arounds too but I just noticed something in the pic...u see the 2 way vacuum in the top right side...thats not there any more...someone removed it said I didnt need it...its in my truck ima put that back like it was too....

 

Allan Im so sorry ur questions are making me gigglin...I appreciate the giggles

350 5.7.4bbl with the hack buick carb gigglin again allan

 

The picture looks like the transmission vacuum modulator and the distributor vacuum advance are both connected together then to the intake manifold (full manifold vacuum source). It's OK for them to be connected like that, but I wonder how are they connected now?

 

This is a original picture, before the carb expert put his hands on my car (the carb dude from orileys) see the hoses I have circled, those vacuums or hoses are not hooked up like that any more.

Hes switched them around several times when he first claimed to be an expert
NO WORRIES I DONT LET HIM TOUCH THE CAR ANYMORE once realizing he didn't have a clue

anyways since I put the new fuel pump and filters, and this is really the first time Ive really driven the cutlass since the fuel pump and express lube stuff

so before I leave work today Im put thse vacs and hoses back to the way this pic looks,

let me see if I can find a new pic

 

Orileys carb guy - Removed the splitter
and connected the hoses like that

Does that make sense to you on how it was, Ive changed it back let u know how it goes on the way home

 

I can't tell where any of those hoses are coming from or going to.

You need to take a couple of pictures of the cab showing all of the ports, and then tell us where each hose is going to and from.

- Eric

 

@ mdchanic, I will take new pics when I get home

Fun71 was on point Im sure
The picture looks like the transmission vacuum modulator and the distributor vacuum advance are both connected together then to the intake manifold (full manifold vacuum source). It's OK for them to be connected like that, but I wonder how are they connected now

 

Yes, that's fine, but what about all of the other hoses?

- Eric

 

Eric hopefully these will help

what other hoses

 

Okay.

• The pale green circles are all sources of regular manifold vacuum. They are functionally identical.
• The red dashed hose is wrong. Just wrong.
  • Cap both of the nipples and throw the hose in the glove compartment.
• Where does the yellow dashed hose go?
  • Odds are, it's nowhere important, and very likely it's nowhere functional.
  • At this point, I think you should assume it's nothing more than a vacuum leak.
  • Remove it and cap the nipple.
• The green dashed hose is supplying regular manifold vacuum to two hoses.
• The purple dashed hose should be going to the vacuum advance canister in the distributor.
  • Unplug it and suck on it to be sure that it holds vacuum (it shouldn't leak).
  • If it does, do it again with the car running - the engine should go faster the more vacuum you put on it.
  • If all is good, then leave it connected as it is in the picture.
  • If the vacuum leaks, then leave it off and cap the tee for now, until you get a new advance unit.
• The blue dashed hose should go to a steel line, and the steel line should go to the transmission vacuum modulator.
  • Do the same thing as the other line - suck on it and see if it holds vacuum.
  • If it doesn't, you need a new modulator.
  • If you get ATF in your mouth, you need a new modulator.
  • If it holds vacuum, hook it back up to regular manifold vacuum.

- Eric

 

Ahhhhhh mannnnnnnn that's FANTASTIC....


thanks ERIC!!!!!!

 

hey the emission purge canister that has 2 connections for hoses, don't forget about that..


Let me look at my handy dandy CSM be right back and making something to eat
my Fridays boring

 

Actually, I would recommend that you do forget about that for now.

I'd leave the evaporative emissions stuff completely disconnected while you troubleshoot this system, in case it's contributing to the problem.

Also, with that Buick carb. of uncertain year, you may not be able to tell where to connect the evap. lines, or it may not have the ports for them.

- Eric

 

Ok .ok forgetting about canister


Once I put those vacuums/hoses back like original picture for the ride home, the pick up was totally different felt better like it wasnt wking so hard
for now I will cap off the red hose, since your talking dirty to me again (*-*) oopps let me stay focused...just kidding....hope I don't ever offend anyone...


If all goes to plan hopefully the carburetor GODS will hear my prayers and I will have my rebuilt carb on Sunday...

 

rain rain go away..ayayayayay


Im up early this morning like always,
gona make some room in the garage to pull in cutlass..

and gona put the steering wheel on..now that's exciting.....lifes little pleasures

Plan buy a timing gun, and some wires, but should I set timing before new carb or after


suggestions on anything else I may need

 

whats a good brand for the timing light or will any one work

 

A dial back timing light is what you want to buy. You might call around to some of the pawn shops and see if they may have one. Craftsman still has a decent reasonably priced one:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-a...5&blockType=G5

If you still have points, you'll need one of these too:
http://www.sears.com/actron-timing-l...2&blockType=G2

 

ok Eric is there another name for a dial back timing light,
whats the difference between the advanced timing light or a induction timing light..


On craigslist looking around...thank you

 

She already has one of those. That exact one, in fact.

The price was considerably lower than $55, though.



An Advance Timing Light is the same as a Dial-Back Timing Light.

Any modern timing light will be inductive - that means you clamp a lead over the #1 spark plug wire.
The old style, you unplugged the spark plug wire, and plugged the timing light in between the spark plug and the wire.

I highly recommend yard sales and flea markets. That Dwell/Tach was $3 if I recall.

Also, I wouldn't sweat whether it is an Advancing light or not - you can always measure the distance on the balancer and make a mark on it where you want to set the timing, which is a lot cheaper.

- Eric

 

Terry, you need these also:
Points adjustment tool





Distributor wrench combo 1/2 / 9/16:

 

... But you can also get away with a long extension for the distributor clamp bolt (especially if it has a "wobble" end) -- I do -- and a regular Allen key for the dwell adjustment (though you need to be careful because any pressure on the Allen key will momentarily affect the dwell).

I do have and like those springy-shaft dwell adjusters, though - I do use one of those.
The only problem is that they can be hard to find in the modern age.

- Eric

 

Most any auto parts store used to carry those tools, but have not looked lately.

 

"It's over there in the corner, with the acetylene lamps and the Model T cranks..."



- Eric

 

alrighty then...its 9:17 am and Im at my 3 cup coffee limit...oh lord...going tool shopping....giggling


thanks....

 

no luck on the hunt for a timing lite...just gona have to buy a new one....


let me re phrase I was looking at pawn shops and craigslist...


but on the bright side even though it was humid and rainy after switching back the hoses and vacuums.....ran great...and only once during idling it smoked but very little...put her on the freeway no smoke at all....

 

Yeah, I noticed that hose and wondered just what the person who installed it was thinking. That would be an entertaining discussion, I am sure.

 

Mannnnn - ok so the carb guy having 2nd thoughts, could it be the woman inside me getting impatient, but 2 weeks ago I was suppose to have carb, then today sunday @ 3...Now he's saying maybe during the week..sorry dude


Ok So what would you all do keep waiting for carb that I may never see, or start looking for another one...Im not good at waiting for someone, if they say there going to do something then do it DONT keep me waiting..cuz there's 100 more carbs needing a 350 to mount on to...very FRUSTRATED..i think I answered my own question

 

Hmmmmm...

Realistically, he'll probably be able to help you soon, but the carb. for that car is not uncommon, and you should be able to get one from someone else on here for a reasonable price.

Have you rebuilt a carburetor before? If not, it's not hard - just requires some attention and concentration, and not losing any of the tiny parts (I like covering the table with a big sheet of white paper).

Another option is to rebuild the carb. that you already have - it's not the right one, but it should work fine for your engine once it's rebuilt, if you install a manual choke.

A QuadraJet rebuild kit and a float is about $30 at the local NAPA, or you can go higher from some of the specialty suppliers.

I'd be inclined to get the correct carb and rebuild it, but you could go either way, depending on patience and finances.

- Eric

 

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...ds_p_2976.html Send them your old core and save $60.00

 

Hey guys, I know it's late raining and stormy and cars at home, but the key and park, I can still change gears to drive, neutral but not reverse...


I was looking for a conversation we had early on, someone let me know how to unlock ignition manually.. If you could, could someone tell me how to do that again, if I recall they said I could lift hood and loosen something from there to get key out


thanks in advance for the advice .. will work on Tuesday

 

Terry, you have a column shift, don't you?

That means that the common back-drive misalignment problem can't occur in your car.

It sounds to me like the ignition switch is having trouble getting into the LOCK position.

You said you were going to be changing the steering wheel. Did you?
Could be you messed something up inside.

I think we need more information about this one.

- Eric

 

Yes column shift...i didn't change steering wheel yet..so I turned on car put in reverse and it felt different it was loose...like I couldn't feel it go into reverse...can't get back to set in park..like I have blcks behind the car..and I disconnected battery cable since the key is stuck on the on position.

 

I think the column's got to come apart.

BUT, first, I would check the linkage between the transmission and the column.
If there is something hanging up there, it could keep the shifter from moving out of Reverse.
It's not hard to disconnect the linkage rod from the tab at the base of the column, by the firewall - if nothing changes, then you've got to pull the wheel an dig into the column - could be a broken ignition switch rack, It does happen.

- Eric

 

Terry,
Are you saying the car can't be shifted from where it is to ANY other gear? Chances are the transmission linkage has come loose. Here's a picture of what it looks like. I just overhauled this on my car 2 years ago. If it's not properly set, it also will not show the trans selector position properly on the dash.

IMG_3419_zps80vzfwon.jpg

See that round metal linkage that gets tightened up by the collar and lock nut/washer? That may be what's causing your trouble. IF it's come loose the rod will simply slide up/down without moving the transmission selector. You need to get under the car to adjust this if it's the problem. It's on the drivers side attached to the frame rail almost directly down from the firewall. It may be a little dirtier than this.

Eric, that's off my photobucket album - if you want to circle the adjustment for Terry it might be better than words? Can't find the link where that happens cause I don't visit that site much.

 

Sure, Allan - Get the guy with the ten year old Mac to do what Windows can't...

Well, here you go:



This picture is looking upward and forward from under the front edge of the Driver's door.

The bracket in the photo is held to the frame with two screws that you can't see, which can sometimes come loose, allowing the linkage to become cocked.

- Eric

 

Thx Eric Didn't say I couldn't do it, but I know you're better at it than I am. Good job BTW.

 

Thank you.