no the wire was to the s terminal only.

 

the crane ignition needs a direct input from the solenoid post like it is and like I said afterwards it fired for a second.

 

by the way the same colored wire goes to the post in the middle of the engine compartment but the regulator cap fell off and had pry marks so it looked rather suspicious.

 

so now that we have crank and momentary fire anything thing else I should check I now have to re-charge the battery that's for sure. by the way the same color wire is also at the live post on the fire wall.

 

If it cranks and fires and then dies when you release the key, make sure you have voltage at the ignition coil + terminal with the key on. Other than that, without being there and looking at what you have, I don't know what else to tell you.

 

eric I hear you on this but I believe if you get momentary fire then it quits I believe that is a sign of a bad ignition switch also. I now have again no crank also and when I turned the starter for about 10 seconds the starter kicked back and I could feel it in the key. I did this about 4 to 6 times spaced by about a half hr apiece. I also cleaned and changed the connector to the ign spade on the fuse box but did not have a chance to test it when it would not turn the starter again. if you have a list of causes please look that up. I have no problem with changing it it wil be very easy to do. I heard the momentary start thing over time.

 

there is 1 more thing also the violet wire goes to the live junction on the firewall and then goes to the ignition switch with another wire it has the same color wire. this is how it was from day 1 owned it. the crane ignition has 3 hook points and it is working,1 to the live side of the auxiliary coil,2 to ignition on the fuse box, 3 1 for the ignition retard function at a spade connector on the fuse box and the rest is factory except for that disconnected neutral switch I cannot seriously explain.

 

I will check back if you cannot talk at this time,please for 1 last thing check about the momentary firing issue that is something I heard about ignition switches a long time ago and with a mechanic I worked with at a speed shop it fixed a customers car and I am getting a tick tick when the power is on now that is another sign of a bad one also I believe. I do not have a full manual on all causes so I am just suggesting but need some kind of proof before I order it and I believe the ign spade on the fuse box is controlled by it and it would make sense if there was a list of some kind. I jiggled the connector and had firing after it looks like it is pointing towards a ignition switch after all like I said please just check for proof I will check back in around 7.30pm central if you do not have time now. I also want to re=add I had zero problems before last Wednesday and the car was here unwatched.

 

I also will be getting a schematics for all wiring,i did not see the use for 1 before since the engine,front lights,dash and intermediate harnesses were functioning fine and the small harnesses and ground straps were new under 15 years old. the ignition switch was nos maybe it sat around to long since it did not have a date of manufacturing on it. please check the list for those causes and sounds I would like to order it on my lunch hr tomorrow and it is maybe a 2 to 3 hrs total including the steering wheel easy job for Saturday morning and grudge racing on july 4th. also the turn signal was acting up and stayed illuminated today.

 

Answer these questions,

Does the engine crank now?

When it cranks does the engine start to run and quits when you release the key?

 

yes exactly.

 

I knew you would find a list of causes. I have faith in your knowledge that is the reason I joined this sight so we could spread all of our wealth. this one threw me a curve ball big time though.

 

by the way I am letting the starter really cool it is expensive big time if they find it is my fault you know how that goes . like I said it is like the switch allows current then closes when hot.

 

I forgot 1 more thing the engine started 2 times also when I released the key and then quit imediatley and the timing chain and valve train are brand new they maybe have 4 years and 40 runs up to the usual 5700 rpm and the valve train can take 6500 rpm. I never have valve float I am very careful engines are not cheap. the parts are all excellent quality only, I do not take a chance with these parts. I have run a lot.

 

I also called crane and everything checks out , it is energized and hooked up correctly.

 

eric are you online. that switch if bad needs to be ordered or maybe like I said send that dash harness back for re=soldering. the work does not bother me it comes with the territory.

 

I will check this forum tomorrow if you find more info that points to the problem the switch or dash harness does not bother me it is just a little more time that's it.

 

Ok, it cranks, then starts and when the key is released it dies. What's happening is you are not getting power to your ignition coil + post in the on position of your ignition key. Is there a wire on the Ign terminal of the fuse box? Run a wire from there to the coil + post and it will run.

 

thank you i ran a new connector already to it i will wait till tomorow evening i stated the starter is not cranking now o'er use.

 

Hopefully you didn't hurt the starter and it starts.

 

it is the ignition switch m/= confirmed it it was the lever on it it is not making full contact and needs a bushing kit. thanks to both of the erics for the info to this point we all know something and come together confindentily as a community and we all have something to add. I learned from the first generation guys before and now keep learning that is what makes us a strong group and nobody knows everything a person who thinks he does is pulling his d==k! so the question now is does anybody know where I can get a quality bushing kit for the igniyion switch doing it is not a problem it will be about 3 to 5 hrs total.

 

by the way eric from texas it was not the starter overheating it was the lever loose and not making contact properly on the switch this was a real mind boggler but it will work out m/= led me to a deeper understanding of its inner working points. the brown and pink wires need to be key energized first then voltage checked right after with the key still on and not in cranking position when it energizes these wires. if the rod is loose and sloppy,mine was and then jammed you have bad bushings in the switch which just like a bad timing chain leaves it at a bad contact point, the bushing kit will put it back at proper alignment within the switch and bam I will get fire in proper timing. thank you for the info it was invaluable guys and saved me a lot of grief, so and I do not care what state its from do you know of a quality bushing kit for the switch doing this work twice is not my cup of tea. I like to be confident about everything I do and that comes from experience or good info like yours and then see it through and get the experience and hard knocks what a mind boggling situation for this part. let me know soon I would like to make that july 4th race still and go camping and hunting that weekend.

 

I will check back in tomorrow for a possible update on that quality bushing kit for the ignition switch so thanks in advance and also please no nos parts things do breakdown with simple physics. this is a call out for anyone just tell me were to buy it with a phone number and address posted here I appreciate all help and will help anyone with what I can in the future. I wan to get seriously running and enjoy at least 3 mths of driving.

 

It does help when your able to see whats going on, good work, glad you were able to figure it out. It also helps sometimes to bounce ideas off of others.

 

eric like I stated you gave me some new info and thank you again you figured it out to that point and were leaning towards that area,you wanted to make sure of it and that is your title a moderator and one I want to add that is careful on advice also. That is a sign of a true leader guys seriously, I have taught people and have been a lead man in the body field and I would also never steer somebody in the wrong direction either quality and efficiency is my motto I live by. I need 1 more thing that bushing kit for the arm I need one the switch is no problem to find and 1 need it reaaal soooon! please post a address and a phone number for it if you can both erics or our community of great people. I will check in tomorrow it is urgent. I learned a lot here guys and I will say this seriously that I always have something new to learn and that is how life goes a learning process the wise person wakes up to facts and never lets there egos get in the way. please post for those parts people asap seriously. by the way when guys i work with have issues or me we go to another source everybody has different experiences and then we apply the knowledge and get it done and learn.

 

Can't help on how that's put together, but you can probably get the parts through one of the resto parts suppliers. I would think the same parts apply to all the A bodys, Pontiac, Buick, Olds, and Chevy. I believe all the columns were the same.

 

hey I had a hectic lunch hour today I called around 15 different suppliers of parts for this part I am hoping for a call soon. eric if you can or anybody else I need the kit with the arm and bushing it does not make sense to put a worn part back in ,physics takes over in that situation. I was told and you know this was a mind boggling situation, there is a kit for it but finding it is hard for anybody so does anybody in our community know of one and yes I also checked with regular parts suppliers including resto parts houses so if you can maybe let the right people know ,doing it is no problem just the plate is a little fussy otherwise no problem and a new colum is what 3 to 500 . I can finish this for about 60 bucks and I know what the quality will be and excellent parts to boot.