red "Gen" light came on 1964 Cutlass 330 engine
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red "Gen" light came on 1964 Cutlass 330 engine
On a 40 mile trip the red "Gen" light came on. I have checked the voltage on the battery with car off and its 13 volts. When the car is running, the voltage meter at the battery shows 13 volts, no real increase at all. When the headlights are turned on, a very slight ( drop occurs (1/4 volt ) maybe.
Alternators squeals when car revs up. Belt is tight, bad bearing maybe? $65 alternator purchased some ten years ago. Alternator has square plastic insert plug with wires, also has larger bolt at top with a red wire attached. What is the smaller brass colored thinner bolt on the lower right hand side (looking straight on at back of alternator) with nothing currently attached to it? Is that a connection that should be made to be a ground for the alternator buy running a new wire from it to a grounding bolt on the motor??
On the trip I just kept driving the car home, fearing the motor would quit before the end of the 20 mile return trip after running the battery down. The car made it fine to my garage and started the next day off the battery so it did not run the battery down which I had thought it might do if the red "Gen" light that was illuminated, indicating a battery that was not receiving a charge. BUT, it must have been charging for the car to have made it home after 20 miles.
So, does the red generator light being consistently on mean that there is a short, is there a blown fuse?/ (Haven't checked those yet).
AutoZone said they can test my charging system which would tell me that the alternator is either good or bad in addition to condition of the voltage regulator.
Bottom line, red light came on at beginning of return 20 mile trip, still is when I start the motor. I bought a new voltage regulator and it doesn't seem to be any different, red light sill on.
Need some suggestions of what to do next.
As always I much appreciate the extensive knowledge on this website.
Respectfully Yours,
Jon Mueller
Alternators squeals when car revs up. Belt is tight, bad bearing maybe? $65 alternator purchased some ten years ago. Alternator has square plastic insert plug with wires, also has larger bolt at top with a red wire attached. What is the smaller brass colored thinner bolt on the lower right hand side (looking straight on at back of alternator) with nothing currently attached to it? Is that a connection that should be made to be a ground for the alternator buy running a new wire from it to a grounding bolt on the motor??
On the trip I just kept driving the car home, fearing the motor would quit before the end of the 20 mile return trip after running the battery down. The car made it fine to my garage and started the next day off the battery so it did not run the battery down which I had thought it might do if the red "Gen" light that was illuminated, indicating a battery that was not receiving a charge. BUT, it must have been charging for the car to have made it home after 20 miles.
So, does the red generator light being consistently on mean that there is a short, is there a blown fuse?/ (Haven't checked those yet).
AutoZone said they can test my charging system which would tell me that the alternator is either good or bad in addition to condition of the voltage regulator.
Bottom line, red light came on at beginning of return 20 mile trip, still is when I start the motor. I bought a new voltage regulator and it doesn't seem to be any different, red light sill on.
Need some suggestions of what to do next.
As always I much appreciate the extensive knowledge on this website.
Respectfully Yours,
Jon Mueller
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 18,240
From: Edmond, OK
If the alternator is only charging at 13 V then something is wrong. What's the condition of your battery cables and wires to the alternator? If there is corrosion and split jackets then replace the cables. You can remove the alternator and have it tested at your local auto parts store.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,121
Battery at rest at 13VDC is good.
Assuming the wiring is ok, unplug the voltage regulator (VR) find the F and 3 terminals marked on the plug and jumper them in the harness with the VR unplugged only long enough to do this test. Start the car and put it on fast idle, recheck the voltage at the battery. No increase equals a bad alternator, 13.8-14.2VDC equals a bad VR.
If the alternator is bad I'd replace both alternator and the VR. Another suggestion is to find a local electrical rebuilder vs. a big box store.
Assuming the wiring is ok, unplug the voltage regulator (VR) find the F and 3 terminals marked on the plug and jumper them in the harness with the VR unplugged only long enough to do this test. Start the car and put it on fast idle, recheck the voltage at the battery. No increase equals a bad alternator, 13.8-14.2VDC equals a bad VR.
If the alternator is bad I'd replace both alternator and the VR. Another suggestion is to find a local electrical rebuilder vs. a big box store.
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