JBrooks

I am an Olds "newbie" with a recently purchased '68 442 convertible with A/C.
1) What is the proper method to remove the dash gauges, e.g. do they have to come from underneath or from the back? If underneath, I will need to remove the A/C ductwork......correct?
2) My clock on the tach works beautifully, but the **** to adjust the time must have the gears stripped, so I will have to remove. Any advice on who can repair?
3) Any corect parts number listings/source for replacing the dash bulbs with LED's?
Or...............Correct part number(s) for standard dash bulbs?
Thanks,
Jim

2blu442

The gauge pods come out the front. But first you have to go in the back and remove the two retaining bolts on each one. I believe it takes a 1/4 wrench and if you had extra joints in your arm that would really be helpful

There have been a few threads on this topic, try doing a search and see what you come up with. If you strike out I have photos of the backside of the dash showing the fasteners that need to be removed. John

JBrooks

Thank you, John.
Will I also need to remove the AC ductwork under the dash? As you can see, I have not yet tried to crawl underneath there to scope out the situation.
I hope to have some time to try this over the holidays.
Jim

2blu442

Jim, I don't think you'll have to do anything with the ductwork. Here's some pictures, let me know if you have any questions about them. Also note the ground strap running between the pods, be sure and keep track of that for reinstallation. John

P1010199.jpg

P1010195.jpg

P1010194.jpg

P1010192.jpg

P1010198.jpg

P1010197.jpg

Yellowstatue

Don't forget the part about being very, very gentle in removing the plugs because the pins are so frail!!!

JBrooks

Thank you, once again.

John...The pictures are extremely helpful, and I really appreciate your taking the time to post them. It appears the 1/4 inch bolts holding the gauges will need to be completely removed to pull the gauge faces out the front (I am also assuming the dash pad will NOT need to be removed?)?
This really helps.

I also appreciate the advice on being gentle with fragile connectors. I usually learn these things, after I have broken a part that is extremely difficult to repair or find.

Happy holidays to all!
Jim

2blu442

Jim, yes the little bolts need to be completely removed. The pad is left on and you can gently wiggle/work the pod out through the front. I had one dash where the vinyl covering the pad had a flap come loose, so I had to work the pod around to not snag this flap. But with a little patience it's not too bad of a project. Certainly the worst is standing on your head reaching up under the dash to reach the little bolts!

And as Yellowstatue said be very careful with the pins on the back!

John

kevin442

Honestly just remove the seat and lie down and do it.. much easier

matt69olds

Even though this thread is over 10 years old, the question still pops up now and then.

If the car has bucket seats, without a doubt remove the drivers seat. If the car has a bench seat, I’d still strongly consider removing it. I’m 6’ 1”, and “dangerously underweight” crawling under the dash isn’t nearly as easy as it was when I was 20! Lay down a heavy blanket, the studs for the seat will shred your back if you don’t! A 1/4 inch wrench, sockets, swivel sockets, and assorted extensions make it easier. Don’t forget the small jumper wire for the grounds, if you forget to reinstall it your fuel gauge won’t work. Work slowly and carefully, once your as comfortable under the dash as you can be it’s not a bad job.

matt69olds

And I would suggest skipping the LED bulbs. They can’t be dimmed with the headlight dimmer ****, they won’t provide enough current to power up the field winding of the alternator, just more of a hassle than they are worth. The dash backlighting use 194 bulbs, the warning lamps are 168 bulbs.

rcorrigan5

And...in getting back to the basics, there's simply not a whole lot of room under there in trying to remove those hex screws with the dash in place. With A/C, you have to remove at least the bottom portion of the A/C vents to have any degree of room to get at those hex nuts.

Randy C.

BackInTheGame

Mine had a related problem to the damaged flap issue. My pods had receded into the dash, or the vinyl had shrunk - one or the other. I had to make up a "shoe horn" from a plastic food bin.to slide between the pod and the vinyl dash. Then they slid right out the front very easily. Even laying on the floorboard, it is a tough reach up behind the dash to access the 1/4" screws. You will get some scratches. A blood sacrifice will make it work much better upon re-installation, LOL Good luck!

Guy Fillinger

Having done that with my car. Some things you might want to do, when you remove the Duct work be careful that square fabric hose is delicate and Nobody makes it. The next thing is see if your Orthopedic surgeon can install another joint in your arm. Then make sure the Wife and Kids are not home or put a piece of Duct tape across your mouth, because you will be doing a lot of cussing and swearing. Either that or find some small skinny Mechanic to do it for you. Just saying

Gpena88

how do i take the instrument panel off? Where are the bolts? Thanks in advance

2blu442

What year/model of car do you have? If its a 1968 or 69 Cutlass the instruments are in three different pods rather than one large panel. The pictures on this older thread do show where the fasteners are on each pod. John

allyolds68

I used my wife's cake froster. Simliar to this:

https://www.williams-sonoma.com/prod...rSubsetOverlay

Billyaxe

I just replaced my gauge back lit bulbs in my Rally Pack with LEDs because they were not bright enough for me. I was pleasantly surprised that they still could be dimmed by the dimmer control. —Billy (68 442)