Custom Interior Makeover

Old August 12th, 2010, 01:14 PM
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Custom Interior Makeover

Iím just about done with my custom interior on my 62 Olds and thought Iíd share some of the info I learned while doing it. The entire interior I got through Ezboy. The seats were all pre-sewn to stock specs and I ordered up extra flat vinyl and pre-sewn tuck and roll for the door panels. Well here goes

Doing the dash
Dried, cracked, and sun bleached; our dash was common to its era.
IMG_8110.jpg

We removed the old pad and the dried original adhesive leaving a smooth, clean surface to work with.
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We laid out 1/2-inch high density foam on the dash and marked where it needed to be cut.
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Next, we adhered the foam to the backside of our precut vinyl.
IMG_8146.jpg

A metal trim strip bolted to the dash holds everything in place. With the new pad properly located, we glued it to the inside of the foam.
IMG_8163.jpg

With liberal amounts of adhesive on the metal dash, we laid our upholstery down and contoured it until dry.
IMG_8168.jpg

After the glue set, we attached our dash trim to hold all of the edges.
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To complete our dash, we rolled the upholstery over the front edge of the dash where itís held in place by the lower portion of the dash.
IMG_8782.jpg
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Old August 12th, 2010, 01:21 PM
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DIY Doorpanels

Many stock door panels are built out of high density cardboard that absorbs moisture. Ours were in poor condition, but will live on by donating some of their parts.
IMG_8179.jpg

Not trusting the shape of our original door panel, we built new templates marking all of our window cranks and mounting holes.
IMG_8193.jpg

Our template was then transferred to 1/8-inch ABS and riveted to the stock metal door panel hanger. To secure it firmly to the door, we used factory styled Christmas tree clips that attach easily to the ABS panel.
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We made a duplicate door panel as we planned to build our door panel in two layers. A cut was made where our tuck-and-roll ended and our flat section began.
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After attaching the ABS to a pre-sewn tuck-and-roll panel, we removed the leftover scrim and batting using a razor blade.
IMG_8447.jpg

It is very important to leave all of the threads in place so that it doesnít unravel. We laid a quick stitch over ours for extra insurance.
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We laid the upholstered panel over the bottom layer of ABS, stretched it over the topside, and glued it in place. Next, we riveted our stock window felting back on.
IMG_8470.jpg

With a liberal amount of spray adhesive, we attached the rest of the tuck-and-roll panel while leaving the sides unattached.
IMG_8486.jpg

(I) For the bottom section, we adhered 1/8-inch high density foam to the ABS board for padding.
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(J) Next, we glued our flat vinyl on and stretched the top edge over and stapled it to the backside.
IMG_8506.jpg

Just like in our tuck-and-roll section, we used a high quality spray adhesive to attach the lower section to our attachment layer.
IMG_8508.jpg

With our adhesive set, we stretched our upholstery over both ABS layers and stapled it securely. We made pie cuts in the corner, which allowed the vinyl to lay flat.
IMG_8515.jpg

You can see how well the door panel fits. And we did it in a relatively short amount of time.
IMG_8952.jpg
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Old August 12th, 2010, 01:25 PM
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Hanging the Headliner

(A) EZ Boy offers headliners in different colors and styles, and all are sewn to fit each application. We selected a white perforated vinyl style. We laid the headliner out for a couple days to remove any fold marks before inserting our stock bows.
IMG_8554.jpg

(B) The center bow doesnít clip in above the window channel. Making sure to stretch the headliner evenly from side to side, we hammered the metal tabs over to hold the center bow in place.
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(C) Next, we inserted the remaining bows and let the fabric hang freely.
IMG_8630.jpg

(D) Itís best to stretch your headliner from the center and work your way out to the edges.
IMG_8631.jpg

(E) Once we had the windshield and back window edges stretched and stapled, we began to stretch the slack out of each bow.
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(F) After each bow was stretched, we were able to staple the area in between each bow.
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(G) Once everything was set, we cut away any remaining excess material.
IMG_8714.jpg
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Old August 12th, 2010, 01:30 PM
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Rebuilding the seats

(A) Our seats seemed to be in fair condition, but the aroma of mouse feces told us it needed to be rebuilt from the springs up.
IMG_8048.jpg

(B) After removing all the foam and vinyl, we inspected the seats for broken springs.
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(C) So the foam doesnít push through the springs, we rebuilt the bottom burlap layer. We wove the thin metal wires from the stock seat through our new burlap.
IMG_8595.jpg

(D) After removing the top portion of the seat, we used two layers of one-inch thick high density foam glued together. We hog-ringed the foam to the springs to secure it.
IMG_8621.jpg

(E) We then hog-ringed our pre-sewn seat cover to stock mounting points in the back. To give the center section a plusher look, we glued cotton batting to the foam in that area. We covered all the foam with very thin plastic to reduce friction while stretching the seat covers.
IMG_8734.jpg

(F) The seat was then flipped over, and the upholstery was stretched and hog-ringed into place.
IMG_8738.jpg

(G) Next, the corners were stretched, fastened, and the excess material was cut and removed.
IMG_8742.jpg

(H) Because the seat back is subjected to less weight and needs a softer feel, we wrapped it in medium density foam.
IMG_8746.jpg

(I) Our very thin plastic saved us a huge headache by making quick work of sliding our cover over the foam. After the cover was in place, we removed the excess plastic.
IMG_8747.jpg

(J) To keep our seat upholstery centered, we stretched and hog-ringed the front lip of the backrest to the back side of the seat.
IMG_8751.jpg

(K) After joining the seat bottom and seat back of our bench seat, we folded the panels over each other (just like OEM) and attached them to factory mounting holes.
IMG_8767.jpg

(L) With the seat done you can see the great job that EZ Boy does to match the factory patterns. Seats vary from model to model, but with these steps in mind, you can tackle just about anything.
IMG_8770.jpg
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Old August 12th, 2010, 01:30 PM
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Last edited by Natas; August 12th, 2010 at 01:34 PM.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 01:45 PM
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nice thread.
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Old August 12th, 2010, 06:34 PM
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That is really gonna be sweeeeeeet. Keep the pics coming!!
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Old August 12th, 2010, 07:09 PM
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Are you doing the work or a shop looks like a nice job
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Old August 12th, 2010, 07:25 PM
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Nice job! I've really enjoyed watching the pieces come together. I can't wait to see the whole thing!
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Old August 12th, 2010, 07:27 PM
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Awesome work and step by step, thanks for the pics, that car is going to be incredible!!!
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Old August 12th, 2010, 07:46 PM
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Great workmanship Natas. I would be afraid to attack that myself
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Old August 12th, 2010, 09:38 PM
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man, I love red interior and yours looks good. Nice work
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Old August 13th, 2010, 03:18 AM
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Awesome job Natas! Thanks for posting the step by step as it will surely help others.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 04:14 AM
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Dude.............. Thats is AWWWWWWesome.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 05:14 AM
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Vera nice
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Old August 13th, 2010, 05:26 AM
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How much do you charge.

It looks great.
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Old August 13th, 2010, 05:39 AM
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Very nice job indeed! I am impressed.
That red looks sweet! Time to head over to the local diner for burgers and shakes!
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Old August 13th, 2010, 07:28 AM
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Thanks for all the comments guys. Honestly, I wouldn't be afraid to tackle it, it's a lot easier than it looks. My co-worker got a quote from an upholstry shop to do his 35 chevy and they wanted $15,000. So, spending $1,500 on materials and doing it myself was the only way to go. For that money I got a headliner, carpet, seat covers, and all the material to do all the other surfaces in the car. To 70 Cutlass s: I don't do this for a living and am just a car guy.

The door panels are the most labor intensive but are really easy to do. Seats take time to pull the covers and stretch them, but not that big of a deal. There really is some more detail involved, so if anyone has questions hit me up.
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Old September 6th, 2010, 11:45 AM
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Great Job! I'm having flashbacks of doing mine. Not quit as nice as yours though. This stuff is fun once you get started and see results, and the savings is only second to the fact you can say you did it yourself.
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Old July 24th, 2011, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Natas View Post
Thanks for all the comments guys. Honestly, I wouldn't be afraid to tackle it, it's a lot easier than it looks. My co-worker got a quote from an upholstry shop to do his 35 chevy and they wanted $15,000. So, spending $1,500 on materials and doing it myself was the only way to go. For that money I got a headliner, carpet, seat covers, and all the material to do all the other surfaces in the car. To 70 Cutlass s: I don't do this for a living and am just a car guy.

The door panels are the most labor intensive but are really easy to do. Seats take time to pull the covers and stretch them, but not that big of a deal. There really is some more detail involved, so if anyone has questions hit me up.
Nice job there is something about doing it your self that feels good and so does the learning and sharing the info Thanks man
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Old August 2nd, 2011, 08:45 PM
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Headliner ?

Natas, great job!! little behind in reading your thread but I did a headliner in my 72 Cutlass and use lots of clips and 3M adhesive along the edge. You mentioned that you just stretched it and stapled it in place. What type of stapler did you use that woudl staple it??
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 06:31 PM
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interior looks awesome !!! The red w white headliner is really nice

I like the door panels. did you get the ABS from easy boy or some other source ?
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Old November 30th, 2011, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger View Post
interior looks awesome !!! The red w white headliner is really nice

I like the door panels. did you get the ABS from easy boy or some other source ?
I'm a little late on this reply, but I got it from a local distributer for cheaper. Easy boy does sell it though.
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