Custom Interior Makeover
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
Custom Interior Makeover
I’m just about done with my custom interior on my 62 Olds and thought I’d share some of the info I learned while doing it. The entire interior I got through Ezboy. The seats were all pre-sewn to stock specs and I ordered up extra flat vinyl and pre-sewn tuck and roll for the door panels. Well here goes
Doing the dash
Dried, cracked, and sun bleached; our dash was common to its era.
IMG_8110.jpg
We removed the old pad and the dried original adhesive leaving a smooth, clean surface to work with.
IMG_8155.jpg
We laid out 1/2-inch high density foam on the dash and marked where it needed to be cut.
IMG_8135.jpg
Next, we adhered the foam to the backside of our precut vinyl.
IMG_8146.jpg
A metal trim strip bolted to the dash holds everything in place. With the new pad properly located, we glued it to the inside of the foam.
IMG_8163.jpg
With liberal amounts of adhesive on the metal dash, we laid our upholstery down and contoured it until dry.
IMG_8168.jpg
After the glue set, we attached our dash trim to hold all of the edges.
IMG_8784.jpg
To complete our dash, we rolled the upholstery over the front edge of the dash where it’s held in place by the lower portion of the dash.
IMG_8782.jpg
Doing the dash
Dried, cracked, and sun bleached; our dash was common to its era.
IMG_8110.jpg
We removed the old pad and the dried original adhesive leaving a smooth, clean surface to work with.
IMG_8155.jpg
We laid out 1/2-inch high density foam on the dash and marked where it needed to be cut.
IMG_8135.jpg
Next, we adhered the foam to the backside of our precut vinyl.
IMG_8146.jpg
A metal trim strip bolted to the dash holds everything in place. With the new pad properly located, we glued it to the inside of the foam.
IMG_8163.jpg
With liberal amounts of adhesive on the metal dash, we laid our upholstery down and contoured it until dry.
IMG_8168.jpg
After the glue set, we attached our dash trim to hold all of the edges.
IMG_8784.jpg
To complete our dash, we rolled the upholstery over the front edge of the dash where it’s held in place by the lower portion of the dash.
IMG_8782.jpg
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
DIY Doorpanels
Many stock door panels are built out of high density cardboard that absorbs moisture. Ours were in poor condition, but will live on by donating some of their parts.
IMG_8179.jpg
Not trusting the shape of our original door panel, we built new templates marking all of our window cranks and mounting holes.
IMG_8193.jpg
Our template was then transferred to 1/8-inch ABS and riveted to the stock metal door panel hanger. To secure it firmly to the door, we used factory styled Christmas tree clips that attach easily to the ABS panel.
IMG_8200.jpg
We made a duplicate door panel as we planned to build our door panel in two layers. A cut was made where our tuck-and-roll ended and our flat section began.
IMG_8409.jpg
After attaching the ABS to a pre-sewn tuck-and-roll panel, we removed the leftover scrim and batting using a razor blade.
IMG_8447.jpg
It is very important to leave all of the threads in place so that it doesn’t unravel. We laid a quick stitch over ours for extra insurance.
IMG_8439.jpg
We laid the upholstered panel over the bottom layer of ABS, stretched it over the topside, and glued it in place. Next, we riveted our stock window felting back on.
IMG_8470.jpg
With a liberal amount of spray adhesive, we attached the rest of the tuck-and-roll panel while leaving the sides unattached.
IMG_8486.jpg
(I) For the bottom section, we adhered 1/8-inch high density foam to the ABS board for padding.
IMG_8496.jpg
IMG_8495.jpg
(J) Next, we glued our flat vinyl on and stretched the top edge over and stapled it to the backside.
IMG_8506.jpg
Just like in our tuck-and-roll section, we used a high quality spray adhesive to attach the lower section to our attachment layer.
IMG_8508.jpg
With our adhesive set, we stretched our upholstery over both ABS layers and stapled it securely. We made pie cuts in the corner, which allowed the vinyl to lay flat.
IMG_8515.jpg
You can see how well the door panel fits. And we did it in a relatively short amount of time.
IMG_8952.jpg
Many stock door panels are built out of high density cardboard that absorbs moisture. Ours were in poor condition, but will live on by donating some of their parts.
IMG_8179.jpg
Not trusting the shape of our original door panel, we built new templates marking all of our window cranks and mounting holes.
IMG_8193.jpg
Our template was then transferred to 1/8-inch ABS and riveted to the stock metal door panel hanger. To secure it firmly to the door, we used factory styled Christmas tree clips that attach easily to the ABS panel.
IMG_8200.jpg
We made a duplicate door panel as we planned to build our door panel in two layers. A cut was made where our tuck-and-roll ended and our flat section began.
IMG_8409.jpg
After attaching the ABS to a pre-sewn tuck-and-roll panel, we removed the leftover scrim and batting using a razor blade.
IMG_8447.jpg
It is very important to leave all of the threads in place so that it doesn’t unravel. We laid a quick stitch over ours for extra insurance.
IMG_8439.jpg
We laid the upholstered panel over the bottom layer of ABS, stretched it over the topside, and glued it in place. Next, we riveted our stock window felting back on.
IMG_8470.jpg
With a liberal amount of spray adhesive, we attached the rest of the tuck-and-roll panel while leaving the sides unattached.
IMG_8486.jpg
(I) For the bottom section, we adhered 1/8-inch high density foam to the ABS board for padding.
IMG_8496.jpg
IMG_8495.jpg
(J) Next, we glued our flat vinyl on and stretched the top edge over and stapled it to the backside.
IMG_8506.jpg
Just like in our tuck-and-roll section, we used a high quality spray adhesive to attach the lower section to our attachment layer.
IMG_8508.jpg
With our adhesive set, we stretched our upholstery over both ABS layers and stapled it securely. We made pie cuts in the corner, which allowed the vinyl to lay flat.
IMG_8515.jpg
You can see how well the door panel fits. And we did it in a relatively short amount of time.
IMG_8952.jpg
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
Hanging the Headliner
(A) EZ Boy offers headliners in different colors and styles, and all are sewn to fit each application. We selected a white perforated vinyl style. We laid the headliner out for a couple days to remove any fold marks before inserting our stock bows.
IMG_8554.jpg
(B) The center bow doesn’t clip in above the window channel. Making sure to stretch the headliner evenly from side to side, we hammered the metal tabs over to hold the center bow in place.
IMG_8638.jpg
(C) Next, we inserted the remaining bows and let the fabric hang freely.
IMG_8630.jpg
(D) It’s best to stretch your headliner from the center and work your way out to the edges.
IMG_8631.jpg
(E) Once we had the windshield and back window edges stretched and stapled, we began to stretch the slack out of each bow.
IMG_8705.jpg
(F) After each bow was stretched, we were able to staple the area in between each bow.
IMG_8701.jpg
(G) Once everything was set, we cut away any remaining excess material.
IMG_8714.jpg
(A) EZ Boy offers headliners in different colors and styles, and all are sewn to fit each application. We selected a white perforated vinyl style. We laid the headliner out for a couple days to remove any fold marks before inserting our stock bows.
IMG_8554.jpg
(B) The center bow doesn’t clip in above the window channel. Making sure to stretch the headliner evenly from side to side, we hammered the metal tabs over to hold the center bow in place.
IMG_8638.jpg
(C) Next, we inserted the remaining bows and let the fabric hang freely.
IMG_8630.jpg
(D) It’s best to stretch your headliner from the center and work your way out to the edges.
IMG_8631.jpg
(E) Once we had the windshield and back window edges stretched and stapled, we began to stretch the slack out of each bow.
IMG_8705.jpg
(F) After each bow was stretched, we were able to staple the area in between each bow.
IMG_8701.jpg
(G) Once everything was set, we cut away any remaining excess material.
IMG_8714.jpg
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
Rebuilding the seats
(A) Our seats seemed to be in fair condition, but the aroma of mouse feces told us it needed to be rebuilt from the springs up.
IMG_8048.jpg
(B) After removing all the foam and vinyl, we inspected the seats for broken springs.
IMG_8093.jpg
(C) So the foam doesn’t push through the springs, we rebuilt the bottom burlap layer. We wove the thin metal wires from the stock seat through our new burlap.
IMG_8595.jpg
(D) After removing the top portion of the seat, we used two layers of one-inch thick high density foam glued together. We hog-ringed the foam to the springs to secure it.
IMG_8621.jpg
(E) We then hog-ringed our pre-sewn seat cover to stock mounting points in the back. To give the center section a plusher look, we glued cotton batting to the foam in that area. We covered all the foam with very thin plastic to reduce friction while stretching the seat covers.
IMG_8734.jpg
(F) The seat was then flipped over, and the upholstery was stretched and hog-ringed into place.
IMG_8738.jpg
(G) Next, the corners were stretched, fastened, and the excess material was cut and removed.
IMG_8742.jpg
(H) Because the seat back is subjected to less weight and needs a softer feel, we wrapped it in medium density foam.
IMG_8746.jpg
(I) Our very thin plastic saved us a huge headache by making quick work of sliding our cover over the foam. After the cover was in place, we removed the excess plastic.
IMG_8747.jpg
(J) To keep our seat upholstery centered, we stretched and hog-ringed the front lip of the backrest to the back side of the seat.
IMG_8751.jpg
(K) After joining the seat bottom and seat back of our bench seat, we folded the panels over each other (just like OEM) and attached them to factory mounting holes.
IMG_8767.jpg
(L) With the seat done you can see the great job that EZ Boy does to match the factory patterns. Seats vary from model to model, but with these steps in mind, you can tackle just about anything.
IMG_8770.jpg
(A) Our seats seemed to be in fair condition, but the aroma of mouse feces told us it needed to be rebuilt from the springs up.
IMG_8048.jpg
(B) After removing all the foam and vinyl, we inspected the seats for broken springs.
IMG_8093.jpg
(C) So the foam doesn’t push through the springs, we rebuilt the bottom burlap layer. We wove the thin metal wires from the stock seat through our new burlap.
IMG_8595.jpg
(D) After removing the top portion of the seat, we used two layers of one-inch thick high density foam glued together. We hog-ringed the foam to the springs to secure it.
IMG_8621.jpg
(E) We then hog-ringed our pre-sewn seat cover to stock mounting points in the back. To give the center section a plusher look, we glued cotton batting to the foam in that area. We covered all the foam with very thin plastic to reduce friction while stretching the seat covers.
IMG_8734.jpg
(F) The seat was then flipped over, and the upholstery was stretched and hog-ringed into place.
IMG_8738.jpg
(G) Next, the corners were stretched, fastened, and the excess material was cut and removed.
IMG_8742.jpg
(H) Because the seat back is subjected to less weight and needs a softer feel, we wrapped it in medium density foam.
IMG_8746.jpg
(I) Our very thin plastic saved us a huge headache by making quick work of sliding our cover over the foam. After the cover was in place, we removed the excess plastic.
IMG_8747.jpg
(J) To keep our seat upholstery centered, we stretched and hog-ringed the front lip of the backrest to the back side of the seat.
IMG_8751.jpg
(K) After joining the seat bottom and seat back of our bench seat, we folded the panels over each other (just like OEM) and attached them to factory mounting holes.
IMG_8767.jpg
(L) With the seat done you can see the great job that EZ Boy does to match the factory patterns. Seats vary from model to model, but with these steps in mind, you can tackle just about anything.
IMG_8770.jpg
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
Thanks for all the comments guys. Honestly, I wouldn't be afraid to tackle it, it's a lot easier than it looks. My co-worker got a quote from an upholstry shop to do his 35 chevy and they wanted $15,000. So, spending $1,500 on materials and doing it myself was the only way to go. For that money I got a headliner, carpet, seat covers, and all the material to do all the other surfaces in the car. To 70 Cutlass s: I don't do this for a living and am just a car guy.
The door panels are the most labor intensive but are really easy to do. Seats take time to pull the covers and stretch them, but not that big of a deal. There really is some more detail involved, so if anyone has questions hit me up.
The door panels are the most labor intensive but are really easy to do. Seats take time to pull the covers and stretch them, but not that big of a deal. There really is some more detail involved, so if anyone has questions hit me up.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 301
From: Lockeford CA
Great Job! I'm having flashbacks of doing mine. Not quit as nice as yours though. This stuff is fun once you get started and see results, and the savings is only second to the fact you can say you did it yourself.
Tony
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 450
From: wisconsin
Thanks for all the comments guys. Honestly, I wouldn't be afraid to tackle it, it's a lot easier than it looks. My co-worker got a quote from an upholstry shop to do his 35 chevy and they wanted $15,000. So, spending $1,500 on materials and doing it myself was the only way to go. For that money I got a headliner, carpet, seat covers, and all the material to do all the other surfaces in the car. To 70 Cutlass s: I don't do this for a living and am just a car guy.
The door panels are the most labor intensive but are really easy to do. Seats take time to pull the covers and stretch them, but not that big of a deal. There really is some more detail involved, so if anyone has questions hit me up.
The door panels are the most labor intensive but are really easy to do. Seats take time to pull the covers and stretch them, but not that big of a deal. There really is some more detail involved, so if anyone has questions hit me up.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 209
From: Idaho
Headliner ?
Natas, great job!! little behind in reading your thread but I did a headliner in my 72 Cutlass and use lots of clips and 3M adhesive along the edge. You mentioned that you just stretched it and stapled it in place. What type of stapler did you use that woudl staple it??
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