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Make sure the distributor is installed with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder plug wire. Rotate the engine in it’s normal direction until the timing line on the balancer lines up with the desired point on the timing mark. Then rotate the distributor until the points just begin to open. That should get you very close to the desired timing.
You can make sure the distributor is installed correctly by turning on the key, and rotating the distributor body back and forth. Every time the points close and then open, you should get spark. If the engine is on #1TDC compression, this is a easy way to ensure the distributor is installed correctly
Make sure the distributor is installed with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder plug wire. Rotate the engine in it’s normal direction until the timing line on the balancer lines up with the desired point on the timing mark. Then rotate the distributor until the points just begin to open. That should get you very close to the desired timing.
You can make sure the distributor is installed correctly by turning on the key, and rotating the distributor body back and forth. Every time the points close and then open, you should get spark. If the engine is on #1TDC compression, this is a easy way to ensure the distributor is installed correctly
this points thing is new to me. With HEI i just make sure the cap tang lines up with #1 spark wire on the cap! I dont understand how to make sure that I do that AND that the points thing inside the distributor is also doing what it is supposed to do.
this points thing is new to me. With HEI i just make sure the cap tang lines up with #1 spark wire on the cap! I dont understand how to make sure that I do that AND that the points thing inside the distributor is also doing what it is supposed to do.
Seriously, you are making this harder than it really is. You need to find an "old timer" who can show you how its done. The distributor cap and rotor only fit one way, due to locating lugs and notches in each. Adjusting the dwell with a meter takes 2 minutes and is far superior than a feeler gage.
this points thing is new to me. With HEI i just make sure the cap tang lines up with #1 spark wire on the cap! I dont understand how to make sure that I do that AND that the points thing inside the distributor is also doing what it is supposed to do.
Ok, if the engine was at #1tdc compression stroke when you put the distributor back in, which ever post on the cap the rotor is now pointing to is plug #1. Install the number one wire there and then plug the remaining wires into the cap per the firing order in a ccw direction. If the points were gapped at .016 on one of the high points of the distributor cam then they will do what they are supposed to do. A points distributors function is exactly the same as an HEI only the points are in place of the HEI pickup and module.
this points thing is new to me. With HEI i just make sure the cap tang lines up with #1 spark wire on the cap! I dont understand how to make sure that I do that AND that the points thing inside the distributor is also doing what it is supposed to do.
You don't do both at the same time. You turn the distributor so the points rubbing block is on one of the peaks, adjust the gap, then turn the distributor for the rotor to point to #1 at TDC.
I gave up on the stock points distributor. I found TDC three more times today. I took Off the valve cover and found top dead center when the intake valve closed. Still no start no matter how long I tried or how much I wiggled the distributor. I just don’t have enough play in the stock points distributor with my 04B manifold. I dug a Mallory unilite out of my spare parts bin that I bought with the car and the engine. I wired it up according to these instructions and right away I was at least able to get the car to sound like it wanted to start I moved the distributor a little bit more in the direction I was not able to with the points distributor and suddenly I was able to start the car for about three seconds while holding the key in start. I let go and stopped it because I heard something metal on metal. I had intended to leave my new TH2004r transmission disconnected until the engine was fully functional but the torque converter could not push back far enough and flex plate counter weight was rubbing slightly on the tangs of the torque convertor. Oh well. So i got under and connected those anyhow.
back to the distributor.
went to try and start again and no go. :-/ put my Harbor fright spark tester back on Plug 1 and NO spark. UHHG!
i found that the Unilite ground i had connected to engine had slipped lose of the really terrible crimp connection. I hope I did not burn up my Unilite? I still have 6v to the Coil in “Run”
reconnected the ground and tried again but now my battery is totally drained. So back on the 2amp charger till tomorrow.
Sorry you could not get your stock one to work, but no problem. The Unilite is a very good distributor and should work with your stock coil. You need to fully charge your battery so it has 12.6v after it sits for 30 minutes.
Did some more work today to track down problem. I have no power to the IGN and BATT prong on the fuse panel. I do have voltage to the top center one and all the ones with fuses. Would this be why it is so hard to start? I just figured out that It wants to try and start in RUN after cranking it and then turning key back to off. So I am back to needing another human to crank while I try volt meter and see of i have voltage in Start!? I know there is power to the ignition switch so is there something wrong with my MandH wire harness?
Last edited by CuttyShark; December 31st, 2019 at 11:49 AM.
Did some more work today to track down problem. I have no power to the IGN and BATT prong on the fuse panel. I do have voltage to the top center one and all the ones with fuses. Would this be why it is so hard to start? I just figured out that It wants to try and start in RUN after cranking it and then turning key back to off. So I am back to needing another human to crank while I try volt meter and see of i have voltage in Start!? I know there is power to the ignition switch so is there something wrong with my MandH wire harness?
Take a closer look at the wiring diagram in the CSM and you will see that the IGN terminal is fed by the DIR/BACK UP fuse, which you do not have installed. The BAT terminal is fed by the CLK/LTR/CTSY fuse, which is also not installed. In both cases, check the actual fuse contacts on the left side of each of those fuse cavities. The one for the CLK/LTR/CTSY fuse should be hot all the time. The one for the DIR/BACKUP fuse should be hot with the key in RUN.
Correct, the IGN and BAT terminals won't matter for the distributor issue. Testing for power in the fuse cavity, however, WILL tell you that the ignition switch is providing power to the pink wire.
Thanks everyone. I think i know what to do. however... i need to hit Pause button . I have to leave back to school tomorrow on New Years. I have to lock the car away for another four months.
December 29th, 2019, 08:31 PM
