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I'm seeking some information locating the speedometer panel lamp in a 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham. All dash panel lights are operative (Parking, Mileage, and Fuel) except the lamp which illuminates the speedometer panel. I do not have a chassis manual to find the information. I may be able to replace the lamp by dismantling many dash parts but believed it would be better to ask exactly what parts, if any have to be removed. A picture is enclosed with red arrows denoting the possible lamp locations. It is not known if there are one or two. Sorry Joe, but if you could provide assistance here, it truly would be appreciated. I cannot read the speed at night, so this presents an issue.
Last edited by synoptic12; January 24th, 2021 at 05:59 PM.
Do you by chance have the 1986 Chassis Service Manual? It will outline how to get at these bulbs and IIRC everything comes out from the front.
This is from the 1983 CSM but the 86 should be similar. Once the left and right trim covers and cluster pad are out of the way the cluster is easy to R&R. Once it's out, bulbs can be replaced from back side of the cluster. Good luck.
Last edited by rocketraider; January 24th, 2021 at 09:24 PM.
Do you by chance have the 1986 Chassis Service Manual? It will outline how to get at these bulbs and IIRC everything comes out from the front.
This is from the 1983 CSM but the 86 should be similar. Once the left and right trim covers and cluster pad are out of the way the cluster is easy to R&R. Once it's out, bulbs can be replaced from back side of the cluster. Good luck.
Thank you very much, truly appreciated. At least you have made clear that the replacement entails removal through the front. This aspect I was unsure of, yet you have made this information very useful for me. Actually, I do have the 86' olds chassis manual, thought I did not have it.
@rocketraider
Would you know how may parts have to be removed? Naturally, the I.P. Cluster Pad. I see the R.H. and LH Trim covers need to be removed as well. Do the Trim covers just pop out via snaps. The chassis manual is not clear on this. The manual appears to show the trim covers with snaps. I would imagine that once the I.P. Pad is removed, I hopefully can remove the instrument cluster. If you could provide additional information regarding the removal, it would be beneficial to me. I guess thirty-five years on having a lamp work was worth it. Thanks very much for the courtesy you have provided.
* Do I have to disconnect the speedo cable and steering column trim cover. I am unsure if the cluster pad can be brought out far enough without dropping the steering column. Thanks much.
Last edited by synoptic12; January 25th, 2021 at 02:37 AM.
G.m. g bodies, they did not hide screws, you should be able to see any screws in the trim panels, if they are there.
The speedo cable might have to be unhooked, depends on how small your hands are, to get to the bulb that is out.
I loosened my column when I did mine, not sure if you "have to" but I did to make it less of a fight. Mine is a Chevy. So take that for what it is worth.
I pulled the cluster and replaced all the bulbs with leds. Now I know I won't need to pull the cluster again for a light out.
All your dash lights out? If so I doubt they burnt out all together... Fuses ok? Though on many cars if dash light fuse blown also tail light were out... Had one fuse for both so you knew something was wrong when dash lights were out,other wise you may drive around without tail lights for weeks!
G.m. g bodies, they did not hide screws, you should be able to see any screws in the trim panels, if they are there.
The speedo cable might have to be unhooked, depends on how small your hands are, to get to the bulb that is out.
I loosened my column when I did mine, not sure if you "have to" but I did to make it less of a fight. Mine is a Chevy. So take that for what it is worth.
I pulled the cluster and replaced all the bulbs with leds. Now I know I won't need to pull the cluster again for a light out.
Thanks much. In replacing with led, does your rheostat still work by increasing or decreasing brightness? Now that you make mention of it, I may have to drop the steering column, unsure. I'll play it as it goes.
Last edited by synoptic12; January 25th, 2021 at 05:20 AM.
All your dash lights out? If so I doubt they burnt out all together... Fuses ok? Though on many cars if dash light fuse blown also tail light were out... Had one fuse for both so you knew something was wrong when dash lights were out,other wise you may drive around without tail lights for weeks!
No, all lamps are lit with the exception of the 'speedometer light'. Thanks very much for your input.
Trim panels SHOULD snap in and out of the dash structure. They may be tight if they've never been out. Get your fingers in any openings and pull the panel toward you.
If car has Cruise Control, disconnect transducer to speedometer cable at the transducer underhood. That allows you to pull the cluster farther back to disconnect the cable at the speedometer itself.
Sometimes you'll find the dash lamp sockets melted or crumbly. Replacement sockets are available at most parts stores.
Be aware that your cluster's printed circuit may have a break in dash lighting path. But try replacing lamps first.
Years ago I replaced speedometer lighting in my 83 Custom Cruiser with an LED strip, as the lamp socket openings in the plastic cluster housing were damaged from heat and sockets would not stay in. That strip works fine with the dimmer.
Trim panels SHOULD snap in and out of the dash structure. They may be tight if they've never been out. Get your fingers in any openings and pull the panel toward you.
If car has Cruise Control, disconnect transducer to speedometer cable at the transducer underhood. That allows you to pull the cluster farther back to disconnect the cable at the speedometer itself.
Sometimes you'll find the dash lamp sockets melted or crumbly. Replacement sockets are available at most parts stores.
Be aware that your cluster's printed circuit may have a break in dash lighting path. But try replacing lamps first.
Years ago I replaced speedometer lighting in my 83 Custom Cruiser with an LED strip, as the lamp socket openings in the plastic cluster housing were damaged from heat and sockets would not stay in. That strip works fine with the dimmer.
Thanks very much for the information. Once I get the trim panels out, will the cluster move forward> Anyways, I'll give it a shot.
Thanks much. In replacing with led, does your rheostat still work by increasing or decreasing brightness? Now that you make mention of it, I may have to drop the steering column, unsure. I'll play it as it goes.
Have not checked, I put in red leds to match the Pontiac monsoon radio display, I wanted the factory look radio but with c/d player and eq I had a mini plug added So I can plug in my i-pod or a blue tooth doggle
Red leds are not as bright as clear white.
Last edited by Grayghost; January 25th, 2021 at 07:11 AM.
I got the ip pad out without removing the transducer or disconnecting the speedo. Four screws on top, three on bottom. Little difficulty getting my hand back there but removed plug and lamp. Is that lamp a E194?
Push the little clip on the speedo cable, the. The cable slides off the speedo head. This is a perfect opportunity to clean and lube the speedo cable.
you can’t dim LED bulbs with the factory dimmer. LED bulbs are also polarity sensitive.
Once the speedo housing is out of the dash, look over the plastic circuit board. Make sure none of the traces are broken or burnt. Use a pencil eraser to lightly rub the copper part of the circuit board when the electrical connector plugs in, and where the bulbs make contact. Reinstall, and forget about it for another 20 years.
I got the ip pad out without removing the transducer or disconnecting the speedo. Four screws on top, three on bottom. Little difficulty getting my hand back there but removed plug and lamp. Is that lamp a E194?
Could be 194 or 168. Should be stamped on the bulb somewhere. At any rate, black as it is, it's burned out!
83 shop book says standard cluster like yours uses 194 for upper lighting and 161 for lower lighting. I think 86 should be same. If you have owner's manual those often have bulb specs.
Could be 194 or 168. Should be stamped on the bulb somewhere. At any rate, black as it is, it's burned out!
83 shop book says standard cluster like yours uses 194 for upper lighting and 161 for lower lighting. I think 86 should be same. If you have owner's manual those often have bulb specs.
Thanks much. it was a 194. However, after buttoning it up, only half of the dash is lit bright and the left side dim. Are there two 194's?
This may help. Printed circuit layout, again 83 but should be the same. Zoom on standard cluster and it shows what lamp goes where on the printed circuit.
Last edited by rocketraider; January 25th, 2021 at 10:02 AM.
@rocketraider
Thanks very much, most appreciated. I did not see the back side of the raceway, just barely. However, I had to replace two top 194 bulbs. I had to open it up again to replace the other lamp, so replaced two with Sylvania Long LifE. I opted for the Long Life with hopes of not going back in for a while. The only abnormality was when I replaced the first lamp, the lamp near the parking brake was 'blinking' for about 45 seconds to a minute, then back to normal. Any explanation for that lamp blinking after replacement? Irrespective of that, it's finished: buttoned up and now I can clearly see the speedometer. Did not check the bottom bulbs, if there's any but all the lamps with,check engine, fasten seat belt, choke/charge, and service engine soon light are all operative and are clear. Those lamps are easy to replace. Most likely they stay longer for they're only used in the starting process. I very much appreciate the assistance you have provided.
Only thing on the Long Life bulbs is they're slightly dimmer than a standard bulb. That's how they last longer, but with all new lamps it shouldn't be noticeable.
No explanation on the flickering unless there's a little corrosion on either the circuit board or socket contacts.
Olds did, at one time, use a blinking bulb in TEMP and OIL warning lights and on Toronados' STOP ENGINE warnings, but that ended in the 1970s.
Figure a couple tenths of an hour less than that for the labor flat rate time, and multiply that by $100 an hour labor cost, plus parts/tax/shop supplies/environmental/disposal and any other fee they can think of to tack on.
That's providing they even took on a 35 yr old car!
Figure a couple tenths of an hour less than that for the labor flat rate time, and multiply that by $100 an hour labor cost, plus parts/tax/shop supplies/environmental/disposal and any other fee they can think of to tack on.
That's providing they even took on a 35 yr old car!
It took me at least an hour and 1/2 and additional half hour to clean the inside lens and dash area. I'm sort of a neat freak, taking extra care.Yes, Tasca Chevy takes on my car when I'm not capable or decide not to do it. Bobby Tasca races the funny cars, if you heard of him. So, in my opinion at least an hour and 1/2 and when the half occurs, they go to two hours labor. I did not wish to replace the bulbs but I had no intention of paying $200.00 (at least). By the way, why was the lamp blinking near the hood latch when I replaced the first lamp? Do you believe' computer reset' for I have not a clue otherwise?
Last edited by synoptic12; January 25th, 2021 at 11:38 AM.
Push the little clip on the speedo cable, the. The cable slides off the speedo head. This is a perfect opportunity to clean and lube the speedo cable.
you can’t dim LED bulbs with the factory dimmer. LED bulbs are also polarity sensitive.
Once the speedo housing is out of the dash, look over the plastic circuit board. Make sure none of the traces are broken or burnt. Use a pencil eraser to lightly rub the copper part of the circuit board when the electrical connector plugs in, and where the bulbs make contact. Reinstall, and forget about it for another 20 years.
Thanks very much for that information. Sorry I missed your post. Too bad I did not read it earlier regarding the speedo cable, as to lube. it works fine with a steady flow. i would have placed led lamps but as you said the rheostat cannot control brightness. I was also concerned with resistance, so I just wen with the regular bulbs. Had an instance on the third brake light (up on back window). The lamp became so hot, it melted the entire housing. Posted that somewhere, maybe G body. Again, i replaced the factory lamp with similar, 'only adding a heat shield' to disperse of divert the heat signature of the lamp. Must be about ten years or more, no problems at all. Housing looks brand new inside. Actually, that was my own idea to add the heat shield.
Only thing on the Long Life bulbs is they're slightly dimmer than a standard bulb. That's how they last longer, but with all new lamps it shouldn't be noticeable.
No explanation on the flickering unless there's a little corrosion on either the circuit board or socket contacts.
Olds did, at one time, use a blinking bulb in TEMP and OIL warning lights and on Toronados' STOP ENGINE warnings, but that ended in the 1970s.
You're very adept at the blinking light, i believe you are correct. I was not aware of the color level in using Longlife, but they are fine. From what I could see of the raceway, it looked brand new. Naturally, i did not remove the speedo cable whereas I should have to lube as you said. Thanks very much. Knew of the eraser trick years ago, and it does work. Used that in the power window contacts, all good.
It took me at least an hour and 1/2 and additional half hour to clean the inside lens and dash area. I'm sort of a neat freak, taking extra care.Yes, Tasca Chevy takes on my car when I'm not capable or decide not to do it. Bobby Tasca races the funny cars, if you heard of him. So, in my opinion at least an hour and 1/2 and when the half occurs, they go to two hours labor. I did not wish to replace the bulbs but I had no intention of paying $200.00 (at least). By the way, why was the lamp blinking near the hood latch when I replaced the first lamp? Do you believe' computer reset' for I have not a clue otherwise?
I think, having worked at a dealer, If it was done by a dealer, they swap out all the bulbs to limit the chance of a comeback, unhappy customer, being the age of the vehicle and chance of the bulbs life span almost over or on borrowed time.
Labor rate would be book time. If they could find book time for a car this old.
If your car has cruise you can lube the speedo cable from the other end under hood.
January 24th, 2021, 05:56 PM
Need Assistance Finding Instrument Panel Lamp
