Correct Battery

Old Jul 25, 2011 | 11:30 PM
  #1  
jdana24's Avatar
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1968 Olds Cutlass S
 
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From: Seattle, WA
Correct Battery

What was the correct battery for a 1968 Olds Cutlass S when it came from the factory?
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 03:54 AM
  #2  
rocketraider's Avatar
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From: Southside Vajenya
http://antiqueautobattery.com/batteries/gm/GR59.html

This is if you want a correct reproduction. They also offer it in AGM (Optima) type batteries. You decide if you want the hassle of one of those. I'm not impressed.
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 05:17 AM
  #3  
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Neat site above - I wonder how much one of those things would set you back...
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 05:31 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Neat site above - I wonder how much one of those things would set you back...
As of 4/11, $279 with shipping to MD.
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 05:39 AM
  #5  
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Here are the pics I posted last year when I got Teepo's battery from Antique Auto Battery. It's right by my house, lol. It set me back close to $300.00, but it's worth it.

And yes..... the rusty screw was painted last year, lol! God I miss Blue and his humor.


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...=Teepo+battery
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 06:17 AM
  #6  
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I put one in my Fury, the only thing I had problems with was the tar tops in hi heat application because they tend to split.

They are different than the standard lead acid battery so pay close attention to the charging instructions. Buy direct through Antique auto battery - they will honor any and all warranties, and are extremely friendly and helpful!!!
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 06:23 AM
  #7  
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Yeeouzers!!
At 300 bucks for something that will need replacing in 3 years I will pass.
I can see having to ship it back if it needs warranty work - another 50 bucks.
They do look nice though - for show cars only.

I will consider the cover thingies first. Or I will just stick with the $100 Napa "cheapo" - good enough for a clone thats a driver...

Originally Posted by oldcutlass
I put one in my Fury, the only thing I had problems with was the tar tops in hi heat application because they tend to split.
I bet they would not make it through one summer here in TX...
Was 108.7* in the shade at my place yesterday. No telling what underhood temps would be.
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Yeeouzers!!
At 300 bucks for something that will need replacing in 3 years I will pass.
I can see having to ship it back if it needs warranty work - another 50 bucks.
They do look nice though - for show cars only.

I will consider the cover thingies first. Or I will just stick with the $100 Napa "cheapo" - good enough for a clone thats a driver...


I bet they would not make it through one summer here in TX...
Was 108.7* in the shade at my place yesterday. No telling what underhood temps would be.
The one in the picture did very well! The Tar top split cosmetically, did not affect the operation of the battery! It did just fine in texas heat! And, yes they really are for car shows. The plus with these batteries is that you get no acid damage or corroded terminals!
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #9  
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This is a correct looking repro dry type battery for a 67 GM car.
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 02:53 PM
  #10  
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A couple comments regarding Antique Auto Battery.

First and foremost, they're an excellent company with excellent products. Buy with confidence.

They offer their batteries is both a lead-acid version and a maintenance-free version. Both are identical and perfectly correct in appearance. In my experience (sample of one), the lead acid battery lasted about 3 years and required frequent attention (adding water and charging) -- just like they did back in the 60s and 70s. So if you want your Olds to REALLY help you relive the era, go for it. But for me, I switched to the maintenance-free version. That was not quite 3 years ago yet, so I can't guarantee its longevity. But based on how it loses absolutely zero strength over the winter, it feels like it'll last forever. And remember, it looks 100% correct. One thing to watch out for though is the charging instructions. They make a big deal about not using too high a voltage, and many battery chargers do put out too high a voltage as the battery reaches full charge and the load decreases.

Finally, don't trust the application list on Antique Auto Battery's website. For example, based on the chart you would think the 1970 442 is supposed to use an R59 battery. Bull. That was for Chevies in '70 (and small-block Oldes). Big-block Oldses in '70 received the R71S, which Antique Auto Battery also conveniently sells.
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by BlackGold

Finally, don't trust the application list on Antique Auto Battery's website. For example, based on the chart you would think the 1970 442 is supposed to use an R59 battery. Bull. That was for Chevies in '70 (and small-block Oldes). Big-block Oldses in '70 received the R71S, which Antique Auto Battery also conveniently sells.
Im glad you confirmed that as I thought the R59 was incorrect but wasn't sure which one was correct
Old Jul 29, 2011 | 03:33 AM
  #12  
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I would be real careful about using the lead acid battery. I had to look hard and far to find a used core support for my restoration that wasn't trashed from rust on the battery side from the corrosive atmosphere.
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