I guess the title says it all. I have had three mechanics check this out but none of them could diagnose anything wrong. The problem finally came to a head when my 18 year old daughter was driving our 1959 Olds 98 sedan during a nighttime rainstorm with the headlights on and wipers running when the car died and wouldn't restart or even turn over. She had not gotten completely off the highway when I got the frantic call that other cars and trucks were just missing her. She had not even gotten out of the car yet, and was just scared out of her mind. So, I can't take "nothing's wrong" for an answer here, and thought about just replacing the generator and battery anyway, but I suspect something is draining the juice quicker than the generator can replace it, so changing them won't likely solve anything. I need to find the culprit that is stealing juice from the battery. ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE?

Thanks much,

Jim

 

Biggest issue is it runs a generator. If yours is a non ac car then its only running 35 amps, not enough to keep up with lights and wipers when working at 100% ( when they get old they get less efficient).
the ac cars run 50 amp but they barely keep up.
New ac gen are about $375 and will work or upgrade to an Alternator.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm really at a loss when it comes to auto electric problems. So, when the car was new the generator could provide enough juice for lights and wipers, but over time those became less efficient and used more electricity so the generator couldn't keep up? I'm all for doing whatever it takes to fix this but right now the car is 100% original as far as I can tell (I even refuse for the time being to replace the vinyl on an armrest so I can truthfully say "original"). If I need to convert to an alternator in order for the lights and wipers to work then so be it, but I find it surprising since the current generator keeps testing OK. I guess I can get an alternator and keep the generator to put back in if needed to become "original" again..... By the way, the car doesn't have AC, just that wonderful "summer ventilation".
Jim

 

[QUOTE=lazy394;604555]Biggest issue is it runs a generator. If yours is a non ac car then its only running 35 amps, not enough to keep up with lights and wipers when working at 100% ( when they get old they get less efficient).
Agreed if you're running the heater, the wipers,headlights,radio etc full load.The generator will keep up if the engine is running at higher rpms,not idle or low speed.

 

I would suggest a genny rebuild, or at least a gen teardown and good inspection of the innards by a good rebuilder. Then on to the regulator. They may just be worn out and time for a rebuild.

 

All good..even though mine has AC i spend most of my time with my arm out the window...alla cruise mode
A new gen is easily found...most are now 55 amp...but there is also a mob on ebay that do alternators in the generator housing ( so they look stock )but this will require some wiring mods.

cheers

 

Any chance you have a voltage draw somewhere in addition to having a low amperage generator? should be able to tell with a VOM on the ground side of battery between post and disconnected cable

 

The lights and wiper would take about 20A. The heater fan on high would add another 10 or so.
So the system was adequate when working right.

Time to put a voltmeter on the battery with car off, take reading. Start car, all accessories off - take reading. Turn on lights, take reading. add in wipers, take reading. Turn on heater, take reading.

DO this at idle and at 2000RPM. Post your results.
For a more realistic test, wire in a temporary volt meter or use a handheld and wire it into the dash or lighter. Drive around a bit (or even a longer cruise!) and have a friend watching the meter.
See if the voltage fades away, or drops totally intermittantly, or whatnot.

You should have 13V-15V at the battery at all times, and never less than 12.7. If less than 12, get ready to push...

 

Thanks for all the good advice. I'm going to go through the some troubleshooting as suggested and then decide on the fix.

Thanks again,

Jim

 

The first thing I would be looking at would be the brushes in the generator. They are now a mere 54 years young! Depending on the mileage they could be worn to the point they no longer contact the armature.

However, you said the gen tests ok? You did not say anything about the voltage regulator. Unless the voltage regulator tells the generator to send output to the battery, no matter how good both are, the system will only drain the battery.

 

Im about to fit an alternator that is inside a generator housing ( whenever I crank the tunes the gen light glows lol).
This will keep the stock look with better functionality.
Let you know how it goes

 

I've experienced a similar problem in newer cars with bad grounds for the accessory system.

 

Those "genernators" don't come cheap. Be nice to see a pic of it, once installed.

 

The new Alternator is amazing. The windows are faster, lights brighter etc.
Only down side is the gen light was on all the time...next thing to solve.

 

Thanks for the pics. Does look like a generator. Now you need to mount the Delco-Remy tag on it!

 

Hey there Lazy 394. I just installed a Powermaster 82051 generator lookalike and boy does it make a difference! I'm having the same issue as you with the generator light staying on all the time. I suppose a guy could just pull the bulb if it isn't that hard to get to, since I figure this new unit won't need a dummy light system to monitor it all the time. Still, I would rather solve the issue the right way. Did you ever come up with a solution?

Thanks,

Jim

 

You need to get voltage on the gen light when the engine is running to turn it off.


Off the Powermaster site:


My dash light does not work after I installed my one wire alternator. How do I get my dash light to work?
Some Powermaster alternators have an indicator light drive. The indicator light wire from the stock wiring harness has to be connected to this terminal of the one wire alternator. If the you had an OE externally regulated alternator, then use a conversion wiring harness (part # 150). If you had an internally regulated alternator with the two spade wiring harness connector, simply remove the black rubber cover on the side of the Powermaster alternator and plug the harness in. (PLEASE NOTE: This applies only to part #s 17294, 37294, etc. and not to part # 178021, etc.)

 

There is a lot of hints on the Rod forums too and im still looking into it, but for now ive just clipped and sealed the wire to the light.

 

Thanks for the advice guys!

 

I know that "genernators" do not come cheap. In fact, they are rather expensive. Seems to me, part of the price ought to include how to get the GEN light to work properly? One should not have to search/beg for a solution. The vendor needs to step up to the plate on this!