1968Cutlassfallbrook

Hello all,

I have recently replaced my headlight switch and since I have done that I have noticed that I have a weird sound as it sounds like grease frying but I haven't been able to locate the area that it's coming from. The dash lights didn't all work only the clock light worked now that all lights work with the new switch I have that noise. Also I have noticed that the switch isn't as tight as the factory as it seems to have some play in it. Does anyone have an idea what could be the problem? I have felt the wires on the headlight switch from where I can touch but I can't go any further as the wiring harness being taped. Any info on how to check what could be going on that would be wonderful. Thanks Also What size of battery cable would be a good one as I believe mine is the factory thickness my friend thinks I should go thicker. Thanks

John

1968Cutlassfallbrook

I was wondering what's the best way to tackle the under dash wiring as I believe I have a serious short as I have noticed some serious ark on the positive battery terminal and it's been turning black. should I pull the complete dash out and inspect everything or would it be better to get a new harness or what should I do? Thanks

John

allyolds68

Pulling the dash out is a 1/2 hour job if you know where all the nuts are and know which post is the "push in" one that you have to pop out with a swift smack. disconnecting the wirking harness is easy too. If you have an assembly manual it's pretty clear where they all are. It's much easier to check continuity and grounds with the dash out......if you know how to so that stuff

Putting the dash back in takes longer and a lot of patience

1968Cutlassfallbrook

Do I need any special tools for the ignition switch headlight switch or anything to pull those out.

allyolds68

I think Fusick & a few others sell a special tool for the ignition but you don't need it. I remember using a set of needle nose pliers.

If you take the dash out the ignition (& every other switch) comes out with it

1968Cutlassfallbrook

So I need to drop the column or what all do I need to do to pull the complete dash out. As I'd like to pull it completely out and clean up the bezels and all. Thanks

allyolds68

It's easier if you remove the steering wheel, but no, the steering column doesn't need to come out. Obviously the dash pad comes out too. There's like 7 speed nuts and a push pin & some of them suck to get to but they are all accessible

1968Cutlassfallbrook

I have a column shift do I need to discount anything for that.

starfire

Save yourself a boatload of time and inconvenience and take the front seat out before starting.

1968Cutlassfallbrook

is there any trick to get the ignition switch wires off as I have been trying to pull them off just can't get them to slip over the holder. Also what other parts do I need to discounect I know the speedo and what else is there.

allyolds68

Disconnect the engine & lighting harness at the firewall from the engine side (one bolt in the center). Remove 2 bolts holding the fuse block to the firewall, disconnect the rear lighting harness. Disconnect the door pin switches, disconnect the heater control (brown power can stay connected). disconnect the speedo. Probably a couple more I forgot. Then the whole dash lifts out with all the wires attached including the ignition. There may be a couple of ground wires that are attached across the back of the dash frame that hold it up as it's coming out

And yeah....pulling the front seat (especially the driver's side) makes it a lot easier

Just out of curiosity, what makes you think the short is in the dash and before you go through all this can you isolate the "crackling" sound source. That could just be a bad ground. Are you sure about the positive battery connection being fried? The frying usually takes place in the smaller wires that heat up faster

1968Cutlassfallbrook

I have tried to pull the door pin switches is there a trick for those as each time I pull on the wire the button pulls back with it.

1968Cutlassfallbrook

Also do you know anyone who redoes the dash pad as my has cracks and sagging near the a/c vent in the middle and would like to get it done.

1968Cutlassfallbrook

I have been trying figure out what wires go towards the back is it the purple wires? Also is there a clip or do I need to take the fuse box apart to get to take the back wire harness off. I haven't done any electrical work before or should I leave it to someone who knows what their doing. I was wanting to check for any burnt wires or anything that looks like it could be having an issue. Also if I take it to someone would they need the car to test the wiring or could they just look at it and know what wires are wrong. As I'm on a tight budget and wanting to save some money if I can.

allyolds68

If you've never done any wiring before & you don't consider yourself mechanically inclined you should let someone else do it. If you want to try it yourself you need a volt/ohm meter & a 68 wiring diagram. I sent you a PM. I can send you a wiring diagram if you give me your e-mail address

Mike

1968Cutlassfallbrook

I finally got all the nuts off of the dash to pull it what connectors do I need to take off to pull it out with the gauges and wiring attached? I pulled the heater/ac control panel and pulled the door switch light off. Any advise or photos would be great.

1968Cutlassfallbrook

Well I do have the dash out and I started taking the old tape off and I noticed that there are a few areas where there are either 3 or 2 wires going into one wire that is solder together is this factory or someone who mickey moused it. Also I have noticed my clock doesn't work and I took it apart and sprayed some wd40 and pushed down on a part that has a spring and the second hand moves until it hits the top but doesn't reset could the coil be bad that gets the power? Any advice to get this wiring issue fixed. Also who do you recommend to get gauges checked out by to make sure they're calibrated and working correctly? Also anyone have someone to recommend on restoring the dash pad?

MDchanic

Those are original splices.

The clock probably has burned contacts or a burned out coil.
The coil can be unwound until the bad part is found (usually right near the end) and re-soldered. There is a lot of on-line information about this.

- Eric