1968 Toronado - Instrument Panel Lights Not Working
#1
1968 Toronado - Instrument Panel Lights Not Working
The instrument panel lights do not working in my 68 Toronado. I have tested the fuse block with a volt meter and everything seems normal. All signal and warning indicator lights are working correctly. I know there is a very unlikely possibility that all the bulbs are simply burned out, but I seriously doubt it. Is it possible that the issue could be with the headlight switch? Anyway I can test this? Anyone else run into this problem?
Kind of hoping I don't have to go through the pain of removing the instrument panel...
You guys are always helpful, so thought this a good place to ask...
(Also my gas gauge needle tends to wonders around like a bowlegged drunk in a dark alley... If anyone has any tips for that also...) ٩(๏̯͡๏)۶
Kind of hoping I don't have to go through the pain of removing the instrument panel...
You guys are always helpful, so thought this a good place to ask...
(Also my gas gauge needle tends to wonders around like a bowlegged drunk in a dark alley... If anyone has any tips for that also...) ٩(๏̯͡๏)۶
#3
As with all other GM cars of the period, power to the instrument panel lamps is supplied by the brown and white wire from the tailights fuse, to the headlight switch, through the dimmer rheostat, to the green wire, through the panel lamps fuse (little, 4A), and finally through the grey wire.
Your problem could be anywhere along that line.
If you have taillights, you know the brown and white wire is good, so see if you have power on the hot side of the fuse. If no power there, then the problem is probably a dirty or melted rheostat coil. If you have power at the hot side of the fuse, then make sure the fuse is good and the fuse terminals are clean, and start checking the grey wire.
- Eric
Your problem could be anywhere along that line.
If you have taillights, you know the brown and white wire is good, so see if you have power on the hot side of the fuse. If no power there, then the problem is probably a dirty or melted rheostat coil. If you have power at the hot side of the fuse, then make sure the fuse is good and the fuse terminals are clean, and start checking the grey wire.
- Eric
#5
All taillights are working ok...
As with all other GM cars of the period, power to the instrument panel lamps is supplied by the brown and white wire from the tailights fuse, to the headlight switch, through the dimmer rheostat, to the green wire, through the panel lamps fuse (little, 4A), and finally through the grey wire.
Your problem could be anywhere along that line.
If you have taillights, you know the brown and white wire is good, so see if you have power on the hot side of the fuse. If no power there, then the problem is probably a dirty or melted rheostat coil. If you have power at the hot side of the fuse, then make sure the fuse is good and the fuse terminals are clean, and start checking the grey wire.
- Eric
The fuse terminals are rusty. I think when I get home tonight I will try cleaning the fuse terminal and replacing the fuse. I was going to do this the other night, but the part store I went to did not have any 4A short fuses. If that do not work, then I guess I will try following wires... I wish I had a color-coded wiring diagram... L
I can twist the headlight switch all the way to the left and the courtesy lights come on. However, there is no dash light action taking place. I stuck a voltmeter to both sides of the fuse terminals and get a good voltage reading.
#6
Then it sounds like this is definitely an area worth closer investigation.
And you shall:
Just go to WildAboutCars and download a copy of the Chassis Service Manual (Toro supplement is at the end). Unfortunately, the schematic is not scanned at the best resolution, but it is still there, and does help.
Getting a real paper CSM is also highly recommended.
That's not the right way to use a volt meter (you use it in parallel, not in series, so you go from 1 fuse terminal to ground - with the fuse out, one should be hot, the other not), but it sounds like it indicates that your HL switch is good, which is what you wanted.
Clean up those fuse contacts and let's see what happens...
- Eric
And you shall:
Just go to WildAboutCars and download a copy of the Chassis Service Manual (Toro supplement is at the end). Unfortunately, the schematic is not scanned at the best resolution, but it is still there, and does help.
Getting a real paper CSM is also highly recommended.
Clean up those fuse contacts and let's see what happens...
- Eric
#7
And you shall:
Just go to WildAboutCars and download a copy of the Chassis Service Manual (Toro supplement is at the end). Unfortunately, the schematic is not scanned at the best resolution, but it is still there, and does help.
Getting a real paper CSM is also highly recommended.
That's not the right way to use a volt meter (you use it in parallel, not in series, so you go from 1 fuse terminal to ground - with the fuse out, one should be hot, the other not), but it sounds like it indicates that your HL switch is good, which is what you wanted.
Clean up those fuse contacts and let's see what happens...
Clean up those fuse contacts and let's see what happens...
Last edited by 68RocketAction; June 7th, 2013 at 11:04 AM.
#9
Success!!!
The Instrument Panel Lights Are Working!!!
The issue was rust/corrosion on the fuse terminals. I simply unhooked the neg cable on the battery and cleaned as much rust off the fuse terminals as I could in such a roomy comfortable place... Put the fuse back in... Reconnected the battery... Pulled the lever on the lights and watch the dash lights come on for the first time ever!!!
The Instrument Panel Lights Are Working!!!
The issue was rust/corrosion on the fuse terminals. I simply unhooked the neg cable on the battery and cleaned as much rust off the fuse terminals as I could in such a roomy comfortable place... Put the fuse back in... Reconnected the battery... Pulled the lever on the lights and watch the dash lights come on for the first time ever!!!
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