I have the rear end back in my car with nothing torqued yet. Added a posi and 4:11 gears.purchased a set of Spohn tubular control arms. Just looking for proper torque specs. From reading my manual i get mixed specs for the rear shocks. Shocks- 70 to 90 lbs
Lower stud nut 30 to 45
Upper bolt 10 to 20
30 to 45 on ground
Coils-20 to 30 before lowering car
Control arms-55 to 75 ft. lbs on ground
Axel Flanges- 23 to 28 ft lbs

 

Are you getting those torque specs from a Cheaters... I mean Chilton's guide? The Chassis Service Manual should give you a specific torque spec.

I don't suggest using a calibrated ratchet to torque anything to the specified German torque spec of "gut und tight." Doing something wrong when rebuilding or servicing the differential can have horrible results.

 

The only bolts on your list that are critical are the upper and lower control arms. You need to refer to the manufacturers recommendations on those.

 

There's no need for "advice" or crowdsourcing. The factory torque specs are in the Chassis Service Manual. If there's a range, then anything within that range is acceptable - meaning that it is not a critical fastener.

 

Do the tubular control arms make any difference?

 

No.

 

Yes they do because the bushings are probably not rubber, they will generally be polyurethane or something else. For example, UMI for example calls for 72#'s, not a range.

 

The rear suspension bolts torque against the steel sleeve inside the bushing. The compliance material (rubber vs urethane) shouldn't matter and won't change the torque.

 

​​​​​​​Joe, I would like input from other people who have done this. It's nice to talk with other Oldsmobile guys who have experience. I just want to do it right.

 

You have to remember that RUBBER bushing inner steel sleeve is part of the rubber bushing...Meaning it is connected to the sleeve. Impregnated . So they actual act as shock absorbers effect when bumps or articulation is encountered in road conditions. . So they usually get tightened / torqued when the car is on is full weight suspension loaded. A Urethane bushing sleeve is independent of the bushing and spins free so it does not matter where it is tightened/ torqued as it will always slip/ spin in the urethane material .
So Rubber bushings will give you more of a cushiony ride and will not control torque twist as well and as the rubber material has a easier twist rate . Urethane will not deflect as easy as the rubber being better to control torque and a bit of a stiffer ride.
When the rubber bushing are installed correctly it really is a very nice ride. I remember doing my friends 1970 Monte Carlo years ago with rubber bushings and it was a dream smooth ride ... Kind of miss that as I have urethane in my ride and been in there for over 30 years and still feels the same as when we pout them in years ago. That is another advantage of urethane..Longevity.
Jim
JD

 

I am using oldsmobile books. Not Chilton and ive never torqued in axle shafts before. They call for 23 to 28 ft lbs. And then we we torque wheels to 100 ft lbs just seems lacking to me. I have a hard trusting it wont loosen up.