Many of us have these old-timey cars that come with rust for no extra charge. Some of thiat group don't have sandblasters or epoxy spray equipment handy so...

Anyone have success stories (or fail stories) using rust prevention/sealer paint products like, POR 15 or Rust Bullet?

I've read the hype and it sounds attractive but reviews are all over the place. Looking for anything but advise to strip to bare metal and apply epoxy primer/paint. I know that's what you pros do.

The driver I mess with doesn't rate an off-body frame up restoration but if these "paint your troubles away" products really work, they may be worth the money and time?

 

POR really works, but it's not for coating fancy painted body surfaces, and it won't penetrate to the back side of the metal and stop rust there.

- Eric

 

Were is the rust?
What are your goals?

 

Epoxy can be sprayed with a cheap HVLP primer gun and a good compressor.
Eastwood sells a spray can of epoxy. Actual 2 part, pot life of 48 hrs after activation.
Have not tried it, but am about to.
But you still gotta get rid of the rust.

 

plastikote has a rust converter that can be brushed on ,i bought it at an APC auto parts store,worked good and did the job.POR 15 is super expensive and if you dont use it all in one go it goes hard in the can.Dominion Auto has a product called Dom 16(smart eh?)that
is much cheaper but I haven't used it yet but I'm gonna use it on my floor pans after theyre installed next week.

 

Application:

I'm doing an interior speaker delete project where the prior owner (idiot) installed huge, raised grill, 6X9's on the rear shelf and 6.5" round speakers in the doors. Yeah, you smack your knuckles into the speaker grills rolling down the windows. Nice.

I've removed the chopped up door panels and the rear package tray. The rear window must have leaked at one time 'cause water damage and rust was hiding under there. Before I install the new panels and tray, I thought a rust prevention attempt may be in order?

The door insides look good with very little rust on the bottom where the drain holes are. The deck is not so good with lots of surface rust, pin holes and tears where the idiot used a German Shepard to chew out the 6X9's! The bottom of the deck is also surface rusted. The trunk and floor pans are solid so it's not that movie at least.

My goal is to prevent the rear shelf from disappearing in the future.

 

There was a trade show in Vancouver about a Month back and they had a liquid rust remover that they were demoing that seamed to work well.
Temp is very important when working with these rust removers.
Hot Rod Magazine did a test on these type of removers look it up on the internet.

The product name that seamed to work good at the trade show was called Metal Rescue
This product seamed to be to good to be true, I would like to test it at some point.
I'm not for products that convert or cover rust they only work for a short time.

 

I like krown t40 has a rust stop,

 

POR15 is good , but if the metal is to smooth , or is not cleaned good enough , and if you don't get ALL the rust in places the POR will not get to , the POR will peel off as the rust makes its way back around .

 

I've been using POR15 along with Eastwoods rust encapsulator , and 3M rust fighter .... I figured one of the three will do the trick . If you have the money , get the body dipped , do the sheet metal replacement where needed , and then use epoxy , but that is VERY expensive .

 

I've used POR 15 and Rust-o-leum before. POR 15 is far superior to the Rust-o-leum; but as others said, you have to use it all at once because it won't keep in the can very well.

 

I've used the eastwood rust converter/remover gel. It works but on the down side you have to wire brush /wheel and scrape all the hardened gel off. Which is what I would of been doing before I even put the crap on in the first place! and it's basically a vinegar gel. works good for something small I suppose my .02