Recommend headers
Recommend headers
What brand of headers doe you have. I’ve been looking to replace the stock exhaust manifold but not sure which ones to buy. My car is a stock cutless Supreme 350 rocket with a/c and 350 trans and a peg legger.
also if any one can help having a overheating issue I’ve replaced the thermostat and clutch fan to a flex fan man that thing is loud. Had car running with ac on driving around it would be about 190 and had it parked for about 1/2hr and temp went to 215 all good took a quick spin to cool it down and parked it.and turned it off and it spit out fluid through the over flow. Oh and Rad cap is new too.
Thanks Tommy
also if any one can help having a overheating issue I’ve replaced the thermostat and clutch fan to a flex fan man that thing is loud. Had car running with ac on driving around it would be about 190 and had it parked for about 1/2hr and temp went to 215 all good took a quick spin to cool it down and parked it.and turned it off and it spit out fluid through the over flow. Oh and Rad cap is new too.
Thanks Tommy
yeah man that’s crazy every thing was good till I parked it and it spit antifreeze out the over flow. Next Move I think is to change the cheap radiator it’s a Small 2 core and plastic ends. I’m thinking Of 2 core 1in tube all aluminum. Water pump is good all tight no play in it
As far as headers are concerned, don't bother. You'll never be able to detect the HP gain on your butt dyno and IMHO they are a PITA. I have Hedman headers on my 71 98 and they like to blow gaskets. The headers aren't even cheapies!
Coolant temps of 250 are NOT normal. The hot light is calibrated to come on around 235ish, no way would driving around with the hot light on be considered acceptable.
All things being equal, a 455 won’t run any warmer than a 350. The key is making “all things equal” meaning a radiator with enough cooling capacity for the engine it’s being asked to cool. You can’t expect a radiator designed for a 350 to cool a 455 under identical conditions.
These cars didn’t overheat when new, properly maintained they shouldn’t now. If they do, it’s time to closely examine the car to see what’s been modified, replaced, hacked up, or removed.
As for the OP, your coolant temperature is pretty normal.
All things being equal, a 455 won’t run any warmer than a 350. The key is making “all things equal” meaning a radiator with enough cooling capacity for the engine it’s being asked to cool. You can’t expect a radiator designed for a 350 to cool a 455 under identical conditions.
These cars didn’t overheat when new, properly maintained they shouldn’t now. If they do, it’s time to closely examine the car to see what’s been modified, replaced, hacked up, or removed.
As for the OP, your coolant temperature is pretty normal.
Coolant temps of 250 are NOT normal. The hot light is calibrated to come on around 235ish, no way would driving around with the hot light on be considered acceptable.
All things being equal, a 455 won’t run any warmer than a 350. The key is making “all things equal” meaning a radiator with enough cooling capacity for the engine it’s being asked to cool. You can’t expect a radiator designed for a 350 to cool a 455 under identical conditions.
These cars didn’t overheat when new, properly maintained they shouldn’t now. If they do, it’s time to closely examine the car to see what’s been modified, replaced, hacked up, or removed.
As for the OP, your coolant temperature is pretty normal.
All things being equal, a 455 won’t run any warmer than a 350. The key is making “all things equal” meaning a radiator with enough cooling capacity for the engine it’s being asked to cool. You can’t expect a radiator designed for a 350 to cool a 455 under identical conditions.
These cars didn’t overheat when new, properly maintained they shouldn’t now. If they do, it’s time to closely examine the car to see what’s been modified, replaced, hacked up, or removed.
As for the OP, your coolant temperature is pretty normal.
I’m in the pro header camp, I think they’re totally worth it. Best to match the headers to your engine and overall car package so everything operates in harmony along with a look into your crystal ball. Stock(ish) engine with no future mods, small tube headers (Hooker Comp) would be my choice, like in my kid’s red car (9:1 350, tiny roller cam, 3.08). Modded engines, more aggressive drive lines use medium tube headers (Hooker Super Comps). All out combos, large tubes. Mods in your future or staying stock? Couple headers with a decent exhaust and you’ll feel it. Headers don’t have to be loud but can be depending on exhaust & mufflers.
Buy coated for looks and durability, then hope they don’t need any heavy massaging OR buy painted, fit them, then send them out to get coated.
Now, you may want to get carb dialed in as it could potentially be a little lean. Ignition recurve…..
See how this works?!?
Buy coated for looks and durability, then hope they don’t need any heavy massaging OR buy painted, fit them, then send them out to get coated.
Now, you may want to get carb dialed in as it could potentially be a little lean. Ignition recurve…..
See how this works?!?
I’m in the pro header camp, I think they’re totally worth it. Best to match the headers to your engine and overall car package so everything operates in harmony along with a look into your crystal ball. Stock(ish) engine with no future mods, small tube headers (Hooker Comp) would be my choice, like in my kid’s red car (9:1 350, tiny roller cam, 3.08). Modded engines, more aggressive drive lines use medium tube headers (Hooker Super Comps). All out combos, large tubes. Mods in your future or staying stock? Couple headers with a decent exhaust and you’ll feel it. Headers don’t have to be loud but can be depending on exhaust & mufflers.
Buy coated for looks and durability, then hope they don’t need any heavy massaging OR buy painted, fit them, then send them out to get coated.
Now, you may want to get carb dialed in as it could potentially be a little lean. Ignition recurve…..
See how this works?!?
Buy coated for looks and durability, then hope they don’t need any heavy massaging OR buy painted, fit them, then send them out to get coated.
Now, you may want to get carb dialed in as it could potentially be a little lean. Ignition recurve…..
See how this works?!?
I'm dealing with the same issue with my 455 and Summit ceramic coated headers. It's pretty much stock 1970 E heads and shallow dish pistons. I was thinking about getting some exhaust manifolds since the intake is likely the limiting factor.
I cannot believe nobody said anything about your flex fan. Those things can come apart and are dangerous. You are better off with a clutch fan. Just be sure the clutch is good. It will be quieter too.
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