The manual says to remove the access plate to get to the blower motor, which I assume is in the firewall. I know on my Bonneville, you have to cut a hole through the inner fender and then install a plate to close the hole. Can I access the motor through the engine compartment?

I don't see where it is. Maybe I'm blind.

 

For the Cutlass you have pictured, you would need to unbolt the lower fender and pull it back (not recommended), but the ideal way is to remove the wheel and plastic wheelwell and access the motor from there.
In CSM, "filler plate" = plastic wheelwell. Very descriptive, huh?
Here are some pics from the wheelwell...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post296856

 

Yeah, the manual didn't provide a very good desription. On my Bonneville, the steel inner fender has a round groove scribed in it, which shows where you cut an access hole to get to the motor. Then, there is a plate listed that fits over the hole you cut, which mean any future motor replacement is a snap. Sounds like that would have been an option here too.

I have never removed the plastic inner fender with the outer fender still in place. How much engine/accessories will I have to remove to get the inner fender out?

 

I have never removed the plastic inner fender with the outer fender still in place. How much engine/accessories will I have to remove to get the inner fender out?

I have done this on my 72 Cutlass. It is one of those jobs that really is not fun. It is not that difficlut if I remember correctly (it has been a long time). It is just frustrating and you will scrape some knuckles for sure. As Rob mentioned, be sure and remove the front wheel. Be ready for some bolts that are rusted.

 

Raise care and support on frame behind front wheel. Suspension will drop down out of the way.
Remove wheel, charcoal can, radiator overflow tank (if equipped), and everything mounted to the plastic fender well - there is really not that much.
There will be about 13 bolts that secure the plastic FW to the fender, frame, and radiator support.
The lower rear fender trim screw will need to come out, too, as the plastic will catch on it.
After that it should come out with some coaxing.
It takes time but should not be demanding.

Then is the time to really clean the plastic with oven cleaner and spray on undercoat if desired.

 

Thanks everyone. I am trying to finish a few last minute jobs before I have back surgery next week. The surgery is to correct what the last surgeon screwed up last November, and I will be out of action for months afterward.

 

Sorry to hear about your back problem... What happened?
I sure hope everything works out for you - keep in touch on the forum even though you won't be able to wrench a while.
I had back surgery 4 years ago and it went very well - I feel so lucky.

 

Yeah, good luck with your back and everything! NOT fun.

 

Thanks for the help and the concern. My back problems started when an elderly woman ran into me at about 40mph when I was stopped, waiting for the car in front of me to make a left turn. After neck and both shoulders were rebuilt from the whiplash, I was advised to put off the lower back surgery as long as possible. Well, last year it got to the point it had to be done. In November, the surgeon removed the three lower disks, installed cages and attached plates and screws to the vertebrae and finally connecting to the pelvis. After a number of months, I wasn't getting better. Still had too much pain wehen ever I tried to do almost anything. I went for a second opinion, and they found the 2 screws that were supposed to attach to the pelvis are backed out. One 1/2 way out and the other almost completely out, and they are pushing into the surrounding organs...probably the colon. So, the University of Miami is going to fix what was done wrong or failed.

Doctors said the most important thing for me after surgery is rest and let the bones fuse, and I will be on the shelf for at least a couple of months. I had to replace a water pump that was failing, and I wanted to get that done before surgery, or I would not be able to use the car for who knows how long. I fiinished that last week, so while I won't be able to wrench for a good while, at least I'll be able to drive the car when I am back on my feet. I may try to chyange the blower motor before next Friday, but even if I don't, the car is still usable.

 

Good luck on your surgery. That makes me really realize how fortunate I am. In February 2008 I fell 10 feet straight down off a ladder and landed upright on my feet. I threw the chainsaw (don't even ask) when I fell and got no injuries from that. I had my wife drive me to the hospital and spent a couple days there. I had no surgery and wore a goofy looking white plastic back brace for 3 months. I made a complete recovery with no pain today. I shiver to think what could have happened. I was very lucky. I hope you have a quick and full recovery.

 

me too i am looking for the location of the blower motor of the ac from my car. sorry but it is not a classic its a yaris. i need to replace it with new. thanks.

 

WTF is a Yaris, and why ask Classic Oldsmobile guys?

 

Test. Blower motor parts .

 

OOOOH ! You just failed the test. SPAMMER.

DELETED.

 

It is a very fuggly tiny econobox that you probably squished unknowingly when whipping into that last parking space with your Olds...

Good catch J; I removed the other offending links. I looked at that site and was amazed to see side marker bulbs for 358 bucks and no physical address was to be found. A definite junk site.

 

Before you get started spray all of the attaching bolts to the fender to liner with penetrating oil as most of them are rusted and you will brake the plastic liner.