1972 blower motor repacment
#1
1972 blower motor repacment
I'm looking at a 1972 cutlass (To Buy), the only problem with the car is the blower motor does not come on. I'm not sure how big of a problem this could be. Does anyone know how hard it is to put a new motor in. If I can even find one. Thanks Ron.
#2
Putting a new motor in wouldn't be the easiest thing as getting to it can often involve significant disassembly of the dash.
Before concluding that the motor itself is bad, you would definitely want to check wiring, fuses, switches, and so forth as those are probably more commonly the reason that blower motors don't turn on.
Before concluding that the motor itself is bad, you would definitely want to check wiring, fuses, switches, and so forth as those are probably more commonly the reason that blower motors don't turn on.
#3
Blower motor is behind the right fender. Replacement involves removing the right front wheel and the plastic inner fender. Motors are available, as well as switches, wiring, connectors, and fuses. Resistors are not reproduced, but available used.
No dash disassy is required, unless the fan switch is bad or there are wiring issues.
If this is all that is wrong with the car, Buy it! Have the seller knock off some $ and fix yourself. Not difficult to diagnose and fix, just time consuming. Many threads here on that topic.
BTW, WELCOME!!
Here is a picture of where the motor resides...
No dash disassy is required, unless the fan switch is bad or there are wiring issues.
If this is all that is wrong with the car, Buy it! Have the seller knock off some $ and fix yourself. Not difficult to diagnose and fix, just time consuming. Many threads here on that topic.
BTW, WELCOME!!
Here is a picture of where the motor resides...
#4
Yes, spend some time with a voltmeter and/or test light first. Test for power on the purple wire to the fan at all fan speeds. My issue was the ground at the firewall and easily fixed. Other likely suspects are the resistor on evap and high speed relay (plus related inline fuse) by the master cylinder.
#5
Thanks alot for the information,I'm new to this Forum and I'm really impressed with the great and helpfull response. I'm 65 years old and the Cutlass/442 is high on my bucket list. Thanks again, Ron. I will not let this be a deal breaker.
Last edited by rmoths; December 6th, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
#6
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Remove the wheel, charcoal cannister and inner liner. (Air tools make quick work of the bolts holding the liner) Be careful taking out the liner, the plastic may be brittle with aging. Drop the liner out from the back and wiggle the front loose and clear. heater motor is now really easy to get to; even if you're 65. Good for you BTW, staying active is important as you gain all those years of life experience!
#7
It's an AC car thanks for the heads up.
I've been looking for a 68 to 72 Cutlass convertible for some time now. I was looking for a rust free car I could work on without getting into major body work. Well I live in Wisconsin and that's the" needle in the haystack" I found out. So I'll spend more and find one restored like this one.The heater motor seems to be the only issue with it, but it looks like we can work around that now. Thanks again, Ron.
I've been looking for a 68 to 72 Cutlass convertible for some time now. I was looking for a rust free car I could work on without getting into major body work. Well I live in Wisconsin and that's the" needle in the haystack" I found out. So I'll spend more and find one restored like this one.The heater motor seems to be the only issue with it, but it looks like we can work around that now. Thanks again, Ron.
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