J-(Chicago)

As some of you already know, I started the new Delta 88 project 3 days ago. Everything is torn down except the interior, glass, and lifting the body off of the frame. I am having everything sand and soda blasted off of the frame and shell, and was wondering how to go about getting the rust out of the inside of the frame tubes. Would I be better off trying to find a giant vat of acid and then paint to have it dipped in? Normally, I wouldn't worry about it, but I've had a previous car snap a rail from getting too rusted. I've repeatedly pulled out pea sized chunks of salt from behind virtually every panel on this thing.

Keieljun

I have absolutely NO experience with your problem, J, but I'll be doing one of these soon. I asked myselft this question a long time ago, and I've been reading and studying for a couple of years now. I've made up my mind: when you're doing a frame-off restoration, go all the way. Dip it. If you have to build a new swimming pool to do it yourself, build it. If you can't build the pool, then have someone else do it, but get it done.

You can't have your car's backbone be the weakest link in the chain. You can take a fender off completely later on down the road and re-do it, but this is your only chance on the frame.

Now please, to someone who has done several of his own, what do YOU say? Rip me apart.

Dapapadon

Just thinking (typing) out loud ----- Wonder if a rust free frame from out west might be cheaper in the long run? I'm thinking Arizona or southern California.

Seems like the expense of dipping the frame, then somehow getting paint on the inside of the rails might get kinda' high.

Don

Run to Rund

Yep, dipping carefully neutralizing, then painting your frame would get expensive, and would not replace any metal that was already rusted off. A trip out west, or getting help from western board members, would be far better.

gearheads78

I'll sell you a whole 4 door 84 Delta 88 with a perfect frame cheap $250.00
Thats about what its worth scrap and thats where its headed once I get time to take it.
Still has the 307 in it trans and interior are gone. Probably cost less to ship this one than to chemical dip that frame and still have weak spots in it.

Keieljun

J, what makes you so sure that the inside of the frame is horribly rusted?

Take advantage of modern and cheap technology and send a small computer webcam through the frame. If you can restore a classic car then you can rig up the proper lighting with a 12V light bulb right behind or beside it. Then pull or push it and see what you can see.

I think that getting one from a dry part of the US is a GREAT idea (the '54 Olds front fenders I picked up in El Paso were literally like factory new), but cheaper still is finding out that yours is very good on the inside and can be used without sacrificing strength. You can get a LogiTech QuickCam or MicroSoft LifeCam for $20-$25, and they SHOULD fit into your tubing.

gearheads78

^^^^^ excellect idea

J-(Chicago)

That's a helluva deal on the 84. If it was close by, I'd come check it out. Unfortunately, I believe the 4door frames have a different wheelbase.

I found a local company that acid dips and refinishes train cars and parts for the railroads, and they said they would do my frame and have it prepped for paint for $650.
Also, the doors, & trunk lid are going to be $150 a pop.
Not too shabby, but they have an 8 week turnaround time so I gotta get my **** in gear even more. 3 8hr days working (and drinking Coors, heh.) all by myself so far, and all that's left is the dash, glass, and body to come off. I just can't win lol, my hands hurt and my eyes are caked with rust. Not to mention I have to work 60 hrs a week between my 2 jobs.

J-(Chicago)

I'll get you a picture of what I'm talking about. The frame is VERY solid, but If I'm taking it all apart, I might as well do it right. I'm not going to be as rowdy and gung ho doing it over again in 10 years.

J-(Chicago)

Here's what It looks like inside the rear tubes.





And the 3rd pic is the only rot hole in the entire body.

Keieljun

The part of the frame inside that's easy to see looks usable to me. If I'm right then the only decision you'd have to make is not whether to replace it with a dry-climate one, but what do you want to do with the insides of this one?

What do people do with frame insides? Hey, if money was unlimited,you could make a stainless one using this as the model, or (just to live in THIS universe) you could chemically and physically (brushes, etc.) get the rust out of this one and galvanize/paint/whatever its insides....

The point of whatever you do would be to absolutely stop rust dead forever, at least on the inside. You got me thinking about something I had not yet gotten to in my mind.

Dapapadon

J- That doesn't look as bad as I thought.

So if you're going to get the frame sandblasted anyway why not just have them shoot down the inside of the rails? Then use a metal treatment or rust converter. Duct tape openings, leave one end open, set the frame on an angle and pour the stuff inside. Have a buddy help and turn the frame every which way to coat the inside. Dump the stuff out, neutralize and let it dry. Use the same idea to paint the inside.

This is just an idea. You pick the products. But I'd think a gallon of converter and 2 quarts of paint would do it. Way cheaper than someone doing it for you.

Don

Dapapadon

You might have to figure in the cost of beer. This will be messy!! Beer cost may equal the cost of supplies.

Don

J-(Chicago)

I just took all of the body mounts out.....I hope.
The CSM says there are 14 on the body, but it's a cutlass diagram. I only count 12. (excluding the 2 on the core support.)
There is nothing I can see in the frame arches in the number 5 position.
It says toros do not have the #5 position on them, but no info on the 88. I think my 88 doesn't have them either. Can anyone clarify?

J-(Chicago)

Ok I got to drinking a few beers and brainstorming on this....

I ended up buying a $15 sandblast kit, and instead of putting the rubber hose in a bucket of sand, I blooped it into a quart of paint.
I put it on 100 psi and used a 1/4'' tip Burned through the whole quart in 5 minutes lol.
Lots of drips on the under side that I had to wire wheel but well worth the peace of mind.

J-(Chicago)

B.T.W. I sandblasted everywhere accessable and hosed a bunch of rust converter in there beforehand.

Dapapadon

Wow! Way quicker and less paint than my idea. A little beer helps the ideas flow.

Don

geckonz08

Did a boat trailer chassis by hot dip galvanising --regularly gets its bum wet in the ocean backing the boat in at the marina--2 yrs later and still no rust visible and it is also parked at the marina --mind it gets vigoruosly hosed down when it comes out of the water

Oldsguy

Benjamin Franklin is credited with this, "Beer, proof that God loves us."