Inline Tube disc brake conversion On 1972 cutlass
March 29th, 2018, 10:31 AM
#1
Chris
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 1,284
Inline Tube disc brake conversion On 1972 cutlass
Hi! Does anyone have a photo they can share of the MBM drum to disc brake conversion kit, the non-factory correct one where the proportioning valve is mounted at the master cylinder? I specifically need a photo of how the proportioning valve mounts to or near the master.
Also I installed the inline tube rear drum set and noticed there is nowhere for me to access the adjusting sprocket, where that little rubber piece was is just indented metal. Are these self adjusting or am I missing something? Thank you!
Chris
Also I installed the inline tube rear drum set and noticed there is nowhere for me to access the adjusting sprocket, where that little rubber piece was is just indented metal. Are these self adjusting or am I missing something? Thank you!
Chris
March 29th, 2018, 12:21 PM
#2
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,311
Hi! Does anyone have a photo they can share of the MBM drum to disc brake conversion kit, the non-factory correct one where the proportioning valve is mounted at the master cylinder? I specifically need a photo of how the proportioning valve mounts to or near the master.
Also I installed the inline tube rear drum set and noticed there is nowhere for me to access the adjusting sprocket, where that little rubber piece was is just indented metal. Are these self adjusting or am I missing something? Thank you!
Chris
Also I installed the inline tube rear drum set and noticed there is nowhere for me to access the adjusting sprocket, where that little rubber piece was is just indented metal. Are these self adjusting or am I missing something? Thank you!
Chris
March 30th, 2018, 08:05 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,846
Yup, just knock it out. It should be mostly cut so you can. If not, call MBM and ask them WTH. They've been pretty good to work with in my experience.
For the prop valve, that setup is the more common Chevy configuration. You can look up just about any pic of a chevy or any aftermarket ad. There should be an L-shaped bracket in the kit. Put the master on the booster, then slip the bracket over the outboard stud. The prop valve mounts onto the bracket right under the master, then there should be some little stubby tubes to go from the master to the prop.
You can also move the prop down to the stock location, but you'll need Olds-style tubes. FWIW, the stainless tubes aren't worth it. The bends from all the manufacturers are terrible, and the stainless are almost impossible to fix and will leak if they're not made just right.
For the prop valve, that setup is the more common Chevy configuration. You can look up just about any pic of a chevy or any aftermarket ad. There should be an L-shaped bracket in the kit. Put the master on the booster, then slip the bracket over the outboard stud. The prop valve mounts onto the bracket right under the master, then there should be some little stubby tubes to go from the master to the prop.
You can also move the prop down to the stock location, but you'll need Olds-style tubes. FWIW, the stainless tubes aren't worth it. The bends from all the manufacturers are terrible, and the stainless are almost impossible to fix and will leak if they're not made just right.
April 5th, 2018, 06:36 PM
#5
Chris
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 1,284
Oddball, thanks for your message. I'll give this a try although it seems as though my prop valve's bolt mounting holes are set on an angle in reference to the bracket and the master whereas the Chevy ones I've seen online seem to be parallel with the bracket and the master. Its hard to figure where to start having so many of these short stubby lines.
Thanks!
Chris
Thanks!
Chris
April 5th, 2018, 07:44 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 336
The short stubby lines you referenced have different sized fittings that will only fit one way. BTW it’s helpful to not tighten the prop valve and bracket nuts until the line fittings are threaded.
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