The indented metal is supposed to be a knockout. Most brake hardware kits come with the rubber plugs.

 

 

Yup, just knock it out. It should be mostly cut so you can. If not, call MBM and ask them WTH. They've been pretty good to work with in my experience.

For the prop valve, that setup is the more common Chevy configuration. You can look up just about any pic of a chevy or any aftermarket ad. There should be an L-shaped bracket in the kit. Put the master on the booster, then slip the bracket over the outboard stud. The prop valve mounts onto the bracket right under the master, then there should be some little stubby tubes to go from the master to the prop.

You can also move the prop down to the stock location, but you'll need Olds-style tubes. FWIW, the stainless tubes aren't worth it. The bends from all the manufacturers are terrible, and the stainless are almost impossible to fix and will leak if they're not made just right.

 

Oddball, thanks for your message. I'll give this a try although it seems as though my prop valve's bolt mounting holes are set on an angle in reference to the bracket and the master whereas the Chevy ones I've seen online seem to be parallel with the bracket and the master. Its hard to figure where to start having so many of these short stubby lines.
Thanks!
Chris

 

The short stubby lines you referenced have different sized fittings that will only fit one way. BTW it’s helpful to not tighten the prop valve and bracket nuts until the line fittings are threaded.