I have had a slow weeping from my Master Cylinder for awhile now. ‘70 W-30 4 speed with a EB marked Master. At first it was weeping from the front line, bottom of the Master. I ordered new brake lines from Inline Tube. I did not make any modifications to the shape of the lines. I installed the new brake lines and they still dripped. I loosened the lines and reseated them numerous times - still dripping.
I recently took the Master out and sent it to White Post Restorations to be re-bored and restored. A friend of mine who is an A mechanic and grew up in his dad’s shop gave me a hand reinstalling the Master and bleeding the brakes. I reused the lines from Inline Tube. The Master is weeping fluid from the rear line that threads into the Master.
The Inline Tube brake lines aren’t exactly sent in a shape that is conducive to a good fit into the Master. Should I take the brake lines out of the Master and attempt to bend them in a way that will help them fit better without wrestling with them to get them in ?
Anyone ever had any similar issues with Inline Tube brake lines ? What was your solution ?

Thanks - Mike

 

Steel line 101:
No OTS brake or fuel line doesnt need a little finesse to get it to install square on the flares.
Always make the steel line submit to the component.

If you have the line squarely aligned to the component, you should be able to thread the flare nut most if not all the way onto the seat using your meat hooks.

Always snug flare nuts with a line wrench not a standard open end. You can deform the nut and over deform the line.

Do the new lines have a double flare? They certainly should.

Do you have good circular witness marks on both sides of line flare? (nut side and female flare side). Closely examine the new, now used, line flare on both sides.

If the line went in at an angle that deformation transferred to the soft steel line and its likely shot.
Start over with new lines they aren't terribly expensive.

If the master flare seat was bad and you mated the new line to it, the new line took the impression from the bad master male flare seat. Replace the lines if your confident the new seats were cut correctly.

Verify the flare nut does not bottom-out before it sufficiently crushes the line flare, there's a leak point for sure.

 

Mike - It MIGHT be the brass seats that are pressed into the master cylinder casting where the steel lines thread in. They are replaceable. We can discuss it later. The original/used seats will have a circular ridge/depression in them where the old steel brake line flares were tightened down onto the seats (the softer brass seats yield to the harder steel line flared contact ends). If they weren't replaced then you may be "fighting" against the old/original ridge/pattern imprinted onto the brass seats. Best to have NEW "un-scarred" brass seats in there so you're not trying to make a new flared end of the steel brake line fight against a already "scarred" brass seat.

Just a thought and the seats can be replaced with a bit of work....I have the items needed to pull the old seats and new brass seats are relatively cheap to buy.

 

Wait. Are you suggesting that a bolt on part doesn't fit? Even from inline goobs? Say it ain't so!

Did White Post magnaflux for cracks?