I'm in the process of upgrading to a dual circuit master cylinder in my 66 F85. It's got power drums all around. I purchased a kit from Inline Tube withe booster, the m/c and the lines that go down to the block. But, for some reason, the lines do not fit. The m/c that came with the kit has the ports on the driver side, and the lines don't clear the inner wheel well or the booster to get down to the location of the block. I've called and sent pictures to Inline Tube, and they didn't really have an explanation or a solution. My hunch is that the kit really isn't made for 66 cars with power drums.

I did some searching here on the forum and purchased a different m/c (from a Caddy: MC3637) that has the ports on the passenger side, and the different pushrod to work with it. But the lines don't work on that either. I'm contemplating buying a flaring tool and making my own, but I figured before I do that I'd post here and see if anyone knows of any premade lines that will work in my situation? If not, and I have to make my own, then how do I put the loops in them?

 

The 1967 Cutlass/F85 had the two circuit master cylinder. I would think you could use OEM parts for the 1967 on your 1966 as their engine compartment area is the same. If I'm on the wrong track someone else will need to speak up. I've got power drum brakes on a 1967 I could take some photos of if that would help you. John

 

thanks for the reply. The 67s seem to run to a proportioning block or something. Mine run down to the frame to attach to what is basically a tee fitting. I think I would need something from 66 before they changed things.

 

The Caddy M/C specifically does NOT require a different pushrod. It bolts directly to your booster with NO changes. If you change the pushrod it will not work properly. You don't need the 67 parts, just the Caddy M/C. Bend your own lines for it. Done.

 

sorry, I misspoke. I bought a new booster that came with two different pushrods. I had to change the pushrod to the other style to
try to use the m/c the came with the kid. I switched it back to the stock style for the caddy one.

do I need to bend loops into the lines to combat fatigue or can I bend a couple of lines straight down to the block?

 

The loops are actually there to allow a little flex in the lines to allow the booster to be changed without disconnecting the lines to the M/C. You won't really need them.

 

thank you Joe!

 

Joe, I'll be doing this to my 1966 at some point. If I don't already have parts to use, is there a reason not to go with OEM 1967 parts? Am I mistaken thinking they will work?

 

I pulled a complete setup from a 67 and had it in my 66 for years. the location for the distribution block was already on the frame. If I recall correctly I had to shorten the steel line going to the rear brakes and made new lines for the front. I seem to recall that the inner wheel well needed to have an indentation in it for the 67 brake booster to work but my car already had that wheel-well. Again going by memory the 67 booster is bigger than the 66, so the extra clearance is needed. I can get you a picture of the wheel well if you would like.

 

Thank you Nick, I would appreciate that! No rush as the car is still in the paint shop, but I would like to do this before driving regularly. John

 

John, the 1967 cars used an 11" booster vs. the 9" booster on the 1966 cars. As a result, the driver side inner fender on the 1967 cars has a divot to clear the larger booster that is not on the 1966 inner fender. Will the 11" booster clear the 66 inner fender? Maybe. I don't have first hand experience.

 

I used Raybestos MC 36-373 when i replaced the mc in the -65 98. I measure the depht in both before i
mounted it in the car. The old mc was about 1mm more deep than the new but i mounted it and tried , but
the clearence in the brake pedal become to tight so i have an 1 mm spacer between booster and mc and
this works fine.