Hi folks,
Any way to test a booster once it's out? Getting that dude out was not the highlight of my day and I'd hate to have to replace it with the engine in and the hood on
Normally I would err on the side of caution and just replace it but considering what we paid for propane and wood this winter I think it's time to start squeezing the pennies.

Purty ain't it? I'm having a hard time believing this was ever that cool brass color I see in the pics here on CO.

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I sure don't know how to test them out of the car.

I've never had one fail, but I know it happens. I think the maws' have already spoken, to the dismay of the pennies I'm afraid.

 

Never heard of testing one outside of the car.

Did it work before?

- Eric

 

I replaced mine last year (hood and engine were in place) and I didn't think it was a difficult job at all.

The only thing I can think of to test it is connect a vacuum source and ensure it holds vacuum. Then push the rod in and ensure there are no vacuum leaks. This only verifies it holds vacuum but does nothing to verify proper operation.
Other than that I don't know what you would do.

 

Better late than never?

Thanks guys. I'll do a little research. I should have mentioned that the brakes were pretty bad when I parked it. Mushy all the way to the floor with little braking power. I knew a rebuild was in order.

 

That problem is not the booster, though, but the master cylinder, or a leak somewhere, or maybe just air in the system.

- Eric

 

They make smaller diameter units nowadays that work just as well if not better. Buy yourself an 8" unit and tidy up the engine bay.

 

Or you can hit that one with a wire brush, paint and reinstall.

 

The master cylinder I am replacing. Unless brake fluid is supposed to be dark brown with black chunks floating in it.
The lines look surprisingly good on the outside. Any way to clean the inside? Squirt bottle of brake fluid with a jar on the other end? Or just blow them out?

Thanks for the heads-up f-85 but this may be one of those places I could save $80. I think I'll just clean it and paint it.

 

When you bleed the brakes, you will pump fresh fluid through them, pushing out the old fluid.

- Eric

 

Cardone will rebuild your original master cylinder for around $35.00, if you drop it off at a NAPA store. It will look and function as new when you receive it back, and they will sleeve it with a stainless steel sleeve if needed.

 

Good to know Eric, thanks.
Rocket, Advance has a rebuilt mc for about $25. I'm not sure where I am on the numbers matching thing. So far I've just been keeping all the parts...just in case.

 

If your original master cylinder is stamped "EB" with two bleeders on the side, it could fund some of your brake rebuilding project. Just saying.....

 

Uhh...why do you say that? It does have the bleeders on the side but I'm not sure about the EB. Trouble is I just gave it to AdvanceAuto for the $10 core charge. Do I need to get it back?

 

I just called advance and they're setting it aside for me to pick up. Where do I look for the "EB"?

 

The letters should be stamped on a pad at the front of the cylinder. They may be faint or partially stamped. Here's a tip....Keep your cores or sell them here. Many peeps make the mistake of core-ing their alts, carbs, dists or whatever. They are worth more to someone restoring their car.

 

Thanks mrolds. I'll pick it up either way. Funny thing is, I think this is the first time I actually remembered to take in the core, lol. I still have the water pump, alternator, Carburetor, and other stuff. Maybe I'll put the lot of 'em for sale on here and start my Cragar SS fund.

 

5470409EBCODE1970.jpg

 

Thanks Rocket. I got it back but no luck with the stamp. It might have said EB at one time, looks like part of the B remains....maybe?
Still deciding what to do with the cores. I'll post pics if I put them up for sale. Once I get the motor back in I'll need brakes, wheels, and tires.

 

Nice work Mac, read many of your threads, what a difference. I feel lazy after reading what you and others have done.

Quick question, when pulling the booster does it pull through with rod and Clevis attached as in your first pic?

Read the CSM and it doesn't specify.

I have to pull the MC or can it wiggle past.

Thanks.

 

I had plenty of clearance to swap the booster just by moving the master cylinder out of the way without disconnecting the lines.