Ok so i was putting finishing touchs on primer to get it ready for paint over the last few days, was putting on the coat on rear drivers quarter and BAM this black oily looking stuff starts to bleed through the primer

ANY THOUGHT I AM INCLUDING PICS OF THE REST OF CAR ALSO, IT WAS ALL PREPPED THE EXACT SAME WAY. But it looks like some oil was bleeding thru the gray primer ........ any suggestions short of re-sanding that whole quarter again and redoing it ??

 

The only thing I can think of is that there must be some oil or grease residue on the metal. Did the primer start to come up too, or did the black come through. There may be some body guys that may know or be able to help more.

 

it bled through the primer the funny thing is I have not even used black primer YET thats why I am kinda miffed.....

I had first cleaned it with the mineral spirits, then let it dry and then tack cloth each panel ( with its own separate one ) then mixed the primer per instructions. This one was the first panel then moved around the car........... as you can see in pics its was the same mix and the rest of car is fine .

Only thing I can fathom happening is the previous owner spilled something on it and it soaked into the metal over ten years it had been stored ( oil based paint maybe ) and then when I prepped it again for primer it brought all the oils back to surface.

next step is re- sanding but would rather know the cause for this never happens again

 

Are you sure your gun was clean when you started? You mentioned it was the first panel sprayed, possibly cleaned itself out while you were spraying that panel.

Just a possible suggestion.
Duane

 

it was a brand new gun .............

 

I worked in a body shop for a few years and your picture remind me of silicon contamination. If any silicon based liquid got anywhere near the paint shop the painters would freak out because if silicon seeps into the panel, the only way to get it out is to grind it down to bare metal, clean the he'll out of it, and grind it down some more. I was only a detailer, never had to do it myself, but they would almost kick my butt if they saw me walking around with Armorall, leather conditioner, anything like that. If I had to guess from your pic, if it wasen't some sort of crud in the gun, it may be tireshine overspray which most of the time contains a buttload of silicon. Bottom line, youshould grind it allback down and respray. Sorry!!

 

yea that's what I was thinking it looked like but I don't use armor all on drag radial's maybe the previous owner spilled something on it and sitting with it on it for ten years in storage it seeped into the metal and I just brought it all back to the surface.............and tomorrow it gets sanded back down to metal and wiped clean yet again thanks guys

 

You said you used mineral spirits. Where I come from you don't use mineral spirits. You also mentioned where you had the problem was where you started to wipe down the body of the car in this area where your problem appeared. Mineral spirits don't have a very good flash point and it has an oil base which your tach cloth would be the most wet in this location and allow that 1/4 panel to retain the dampness of the mineral spirits for quite some time, lacking a high point, or drying capabilities.

Your tach cloth could have also made contact with your tire which could have still had some tire silicone residue on it from previous cleanings. You must pay strict attention to cleanliness when preparing for recoating no matter what kind of product you are about to apply.

When taching down always use a product that has a reasonably high flash point but not strong enough to attach your substrates. (primers)

Pre wax cleaners are often used and also auto body degreasers for taching proceedures.

 

Right each panel had its own separate tach cloth, and did the same procedure on each panel the exact same thing for the quarter, the door, the front fenders the pass door , then pass rear quarter and then trunk.

Each one had its own tach cloth and all were done in the same manner, and all but the drivers rear quarter did this damage.................Time will tell getting tomorrow and sanding it down and will repost what I have


AND ON A SIDE NOTE I DO NOT USE TIRE CLEANERS ON MY TIRES JUST SOAP AND WATER, ITS NOT A SHOW CAR IT S A STREET DRIVEN CAR THAT GOES TO THE TRACK ON WEEKENDS

 

Without some good FOCUSED closeup shots of that area, it's all a guessing game.

If it's an oil, etc contaminant, then the paint you put on would have "fisheyed". Can't tell anything from your pics though.

 

Track on the W/E? Are you using anything to soften the tires for better traction? You don't know whats in the bleach box either!! Take it back to metal and metal prep it.Get it clean and don't touch it with bare hands.

 

Sounds like you have the right idea to take off the primer, clean it, and re-primer it. FWIW, I always thought denatured alcohol should be used to clean parts or panels the final time before paint. At least, that is what I've always used. Then again, I'm not a "body man." I've always had good luck with it though.

 

well today I found the problem out..........Lets just say someone ( NOT BEING ME ) had spilled something on it dried it off and tried to cover it up by not saying something.........cost me more work than If she would have just said something for I waste my time in prep and junk just to have to go over it again

 

That's the way to go, strip it start over and be SURE you don't have anymore contamination!!!

 

In a way that's the best news you could have...better that than some odd, mysterious metal contamination that keeps coming back to haunt you.

 

OK LIMEY PART II is all better now wow that was a mess still have a little fill in a little spots in places but for the most part solved the problem.

 

Use prep-solve not mineral spirits

 

X's 2

10-4

 

Very informative thread. Just a couple questions, as I know very little body/paint terminology. What is tack cloth, and what is "fisheyeing"? Also now I understand why a painter friend of mine some 20 years ago said that he HATED Armor-All. I've used it since the '70's on my interiors and vinyl tops. I'll be careful of the stuff around my project car which I'm also trying to get ready for paint.

 

Are you going to remove the chrome hood trim and fill the holes prior to paing the car? I think the hood trim was also part of the facia mounted hood ornament and if you had that you didn't get the Rocket emblem between the grille. So it was one or the other, anyways it looks like a custom job so no big deal as the Supreme(formal), series didn't come with the "S" coupe front-end. Put some widened SS III's on it, there's a company that offers them in widths up to 10"(15 X 10), unpainted or primed.

 

thanks but I already have the wheels I am gonna hit the street running with on the car,15 x 10 rear and 15 x 4 front.

The only trim that is gonna remain on the car is the window chrome and it will be powder coated black so what ever chrome is un nessecary will be removed, And to explain I like the slant nose of the 442 nose better so aquirred that thru a horse trade of some parts and have since sold one of the regular header panels (the car came with two LOL)

And just to clarify this build started life as a 1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon not Supreme LOL