Carb choice for mild 455 build - street driven
#1
Carb choice for mild 455 build - street driven
Build:
60 over
stock replacement shallow dish pistons
stock GA big valve heads
headers
2500 stall
3.73 gears
cam Erson Hi Flow 1, 228/228@.050 with .504 lift on both
ebay China HEI
performer intake
stock mechanical fuel pump
would an 870 Street Avenger be too much? I ask because I can get one that’s practically new for $250.00.
60 over
stock replacement shallow dish pistons
stock GA big valve heads
headers
2500 stall
3.73 gears
cam Erson Hi Flow 1, 228/228@.050 with .504 lift on both
ebay China HEI
performer intake
stock mechanical fuel pump
would an 870 Street Avenger be too much? I ask because I can get one that’s practically new for $250.00.
Last edited by VinMichael; November 12th, 2017 at 09:12 AM.
#2
I had a 670 CFM Street Avenger on a SBC Camaro and it was a great carburetor. Ran great right out of the box and if that wasn't enough, it was just about infinitely fine-tunable. Very crisp and linear throttle response -- better than EFI! Your build sounds like it could probably handle 870 CFM.
Last edited by BangScreech4-4-2; November 12th, 2017 at 01:54 PM.
#6
Build:
60 over
stock replacement shallow dish pistons
stock GA big valve heads
headers
2500 stall
3.73 gears
cam Erson Hi Flow 1, 228/228@.050 with .504 lift on both
ebay China HEI
performer intake
stock mechanical fuel pump
would an 870 Street Avenger be too much? I ask because I can get one that’s practically new for $250.00.
60 over
stock replacement shallow dish pistons
stock GA big valve heads
headers
2500 stall
3.73 gears
cam Erson Hi Flow 1, 228/228@.050 with .504 lift on both
ebay China HEI
performer intake
stock mechanical fuel pump
would an 870 Street Avenger be too much? I ask because I can get one that’s practically new for $250.00.
#10
#11
Question, why do you all think a lot of these carburetors are bolt on and go? As good as the Quick Fuel stuff is that I use, I normally have to make a jet and or air bleed change to make the fuel curves correct. And those are much higher dollar carburetors than what you guys are talking about here. I'm thoroughly confused how people can say that most of these, if not all, are bolt on and go.
#12
Question, why do you all think a lot of these carburetors are bolt on and go? As good as the Quick Fuel stuff is that I use, I normally have to make a jet and or air bleed change to make the fuel curves correct. And those are much higher dollar carburetors than what you guys are talking about here. I'm thoroughly confused how people can say that most of these, if not all, are bolt on and go.
#14
Don't trust but verify and learn. I try to learn first, as much as possible before verifying by reading and looking at videos and pictures, and then try and verify. It can be a good lifetime approach and investment.
#15
Question, why do you all think a lot of these carburetors are bolt on and go? As good as the Quick Fuel stuff is that I use, I normally have to make a jet and or air bleed change to make the fuel curves correct. And those are much higher dollar carburetors than what you guys are talking about here. I'm thoroughly confused how people can say that most of these, if not all, are bolt on and go.
#16
Thought thats what ya meant, or something quickly drivable. But what ever you choose you probably need to use a current running carb, if available. Or a new carb after you tear it down to make sure it is clean inside and the floats are set right. On breaking in the cam if you have any troubles shut the process down fast, and then restart once fixed. The 20-30 minute breakin time doesn't have to be all on the first go, without a shutdown. The latest recommendations in fact advise 10 minutes and let it cool down and then another 10 minute segment I recently learned. Once started and rpms sets check timing first and get it in the ballpark. Watch oil and water temps and set a timer.
#17
Thought thats what ya meant, or something quickly drivable. But what ever you choose you probably need to use a current running carb, if available. Or a new carb after you tear it down to make sure it is clean inside and the floats are set right. On breaking in the cam if you have any troubles shut the process down fast, and then restart once fixed. The 20-30 minute breakin time doesn't have to be all on the first go, without a shutdown. The latest recommendations in fact advise 10 minutes and let it cool down and then another 10 minute segment I recently learned. Once started and rpms sets check timing first and get it in the ballpark. Watch oil and water temps and set a timer.
#18
Old carbs can stick on the floats so at least turn it over in in you hands a few times to hear both floats are free, and not sticking. An electric to pump gas in it before firing it is a good idea to make sure no drips while the pump is turned on. And make sure the shooters both squirt fine still. You can install a distributer and put the engine by turning by hand to 15 degrees or so advance. Then with power only to the ignition see which spark plug spark by rotating the distributer cap counterclockwise slowly. The sparkplug that snaps is number one (the way you have your distributer sitting) and the timing should be about 14 advanced when lock down. But a fast double check once started is always smart.
#19
Old carbs can stick on the floats so at least turn it over in in you hands a few times to hear both floats are free, and not sticking. An electric to pump gas in it before firing it is a good idea to make sure no drips while the pump is turned on. And make sure the shooters both squirt fine still. You can install a distributer and put the engine by turning by hand to 15 degrees or so advance. Then with power only to the ignition see which spark plug spark by rotating the distributer cap counterclockwise slowly. The sparkplug that snaps is number one (the way you have your distributer sitting) and the timing should be about 14 advanced when lock down. But a fast double check once started is always smart.
#21
Pretty much and you can do this before the carb. The timing will move some, as you tighten it down but you should be in the ballpark. Anyone with a better way lets hear it now LOL
#22
You're right, apples and oranges.
Last edited by cutlassefi; November 15th, 2017 at 04:32 PM.
#24
Take the engine to BTR for breakin on his dyno, if you want it done right
#31
Alright, finally have this engine together and it’s down to getting it running. I ended up using ProComp heads with 1.65 rockers and will be using an OEM HEI. The converter is a TCI breakaway 2400-2600 stall.
My question how do I setup my 870 street avenger? It’s practically new but I’m going to take it apart and make a baseline for tuning. Also, what spark plugs/wires should I choose, and is there any type of kit I should consider buying for the HEI? I’m going to run an MSD Street Fire ignition box. Is there a certain mechanical fuel pump to buy with my aluminum heads?
compression ratio is around 9.8:1
My question how do I setup my 870 street avenger? It’s practically new but I’m going to take it apart and make a baseline for tuning. Also, what spark plugs/wires should I choose, and is there any type of kit I should consider buying for the HEI? I’m going to run an MSD Street Fire ignition box. Is there a certain mechanical fuel pump to buy with my aluminum heads?
compression ratio is around 9.8:1
Last edited by VinMichael; May 8th, 2018 at 05:51 PM.
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