How does this happen?? (Luckily I had a spare in the garage).

 

Oooops. Misalignment, too loose or incorrect belt for application.

 

One problem is that your belts are on wrong. The alternator belt goes on first (closest to the water pump) and then the power steering belt goes on.
You could also have the wrong water pump pulley.

 

Can anyone confirm this please? It would explain a lot.

 

If not any of above brkt could be flexing

 

I would think you could rapidly confirm via the CSM.

 

This has never happened before, so I don't think it's the water pump pulley.

 

Misalignment caused by the belts being on wrong?

 

Who knows. Incorrect spacers on brackets, incorrect brackets, spacers installed incorrectly on brackets, brackets installed incorrectly yielding to belt misalignment. It's rather well described in the CSM and the PIM.

 

 

Well, looks like I've got something else to work on...lol.
Now, if I could get some guidance on this, I'd be even further ahead.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...squeal-178810/

 

 

Belt misalignment as said above. I had that happen back in the 80s after an alternator replacement. Discovered there was a washer UNDER the pulley instead of ON TOP of the pulley. That was enough misalignment to cause the belt to roll at high RPM. Apparently it doesn’t take much misalignment to cause an issue.

 

Refresh my memory...two nuts to loosen for removal of the p/s belt. One up top and one down below, correct?

 

Two bolts on the front side (one up top and one near the bottom). There is also a nut on the rear bottom side. Loosen all 3.

 

What's the trick to getting to the bottom bolt? It's pretty tight quarters down there, and I know I've done it before, but memory fails me...lol

 

I use an open ended wrench. Tough to get a good bite on the bolt, so hopefully, you can break it loose farily easily.

 

I tried that but there's no way to get a swing once I grab the bolt.

 

Can someone please provide a pic? I'm in a time crunch.

 

This is really frustrating me because I know I've done it before but I can't remember how. I've got to be overthinking it or I'm missing something. I know it wasn't this difficult for me the last time.

 

Try a ratchet end wrench, you maybe get a click or to with that...Tedd

 

Yup...that's my plan. I just wish I could remember how I did it last time. Do you think an offset box wrench would work?

 

Can't recall exactly how I removed/re-installed that bolt but I'm nearly positive it was a swivel socket on a ratchet or a swivel adapter attached to a socket. Maybe an offset - don't recall. I have a set of 1/4" sockets & 1/4" ratchet wrench which has bailed me out in many instances. 1/4" sockets, swivels & ratchets are awesomely handy in tight spaces.

 

Norm, do you think 1/4" drive would give me enough leverage?

 

Dave - Removing that bolt isn't something I've ever routinely had to do. Wish I could answer that for you. Sometimes it's a combination of things including a small extensions & small hollow pieces of metal (pipe) over the wrench/ratchet. Think outside the box. Sorry, buddy. You'd be surprised the amount of force/leverage 1/4" ratchets, sockets provide.

 

Now I remember what I did...I used the right size wrench...lol. Went back at it tonight after work and realized I was trying to turn a 1/2" bolt with a 9/16" wrench...Doh! Things went great once I figured that out...lol.

 

Hehe….

 

 

Yep Norm...a lesson well learned...lol. I bet I wont forget again.

 

Dave - Your most admirable quality is your honesty. Not many would even admit to having made this error. I hope you get the belt issue resolved.

 

I already did Norm...switched them around last night. And I don't mind admitting my blunders...so much the better if others can benefit.

 

Yeah, I recall me installing the oil pan gasket on my 350 twice and admitting how far too much gasket sealer I had used. That was painful especially while working under the car on jack stands w/ engine hoisted just enough (4") to get the oil pan free.