This is the engine I'm putting together for my wagon. Do you see any glaring issues?

The parts are already in hand so I am not looking for suggestions there, just curious if anything stands out.
Numbers used are measured distances and volumes.
The heads are Ka heads with 2.07 and 1.68 valves and porting and combustion chamber clean up done by me.

 

Pretty high static C/R depending upon your application. Also, you shall have to check carefully the fit of the intake manifold with all the stock that was removed from the heads and deck surface of the block.

 

Good point, the intake side of the heads have been machined to match.

 

If you took as much as needed off the heads there, your valve cover rail would be pretty thin. Are you sure they were cut that much?

 

Yes, I'm sure. I cut them. It is thin but not so thin that I am concerned about it sealing.

 

I appreciate you guys taking the time to look at this and respond. I am really looking for feedback on the compression, cam and heads combo.

 

Depending on the fuel availability I think you are going to be right on the edge as far as compression goes. Cam should be ok with the cubic inches you have. Crower shows it for a 455 so you are right there Should be an interesting build.

 

Yeah, I am expecting to have to run 93 which fortunately is readily available in MI.

 

This is the current build in the car with very mildly ported J heads that runs pretty well (15.02 in the 1/4 in the wagon). It pulls really well in the midrange but runs out of breath above 4500 rpm.

What kind of improvement in power would you expect with the new cam/heads? Wild speculation?

 

Cam? Intake? Carb?

 

Current engine:
Mildly ported J heads ~9:1 measured
Comp XE262, 218/224 at .050, 0.475,0.480 lift 110 lsa
Holley 3310-1 780cfm
Torker 455 intake
Long tube headers

Updated Build:
Ka heads, 2.07/1.68 valves, ported 10.5:1 measured
Crower 229/236 @ 0.050, 0.520/0.528 lift 112 lsa
Same carb and intake although I think a bigger carb might be in order?

 

Also, any thought on installing the cam a couple of degrees retarded to lower dynamic compression a bit? Or does it look like it should work on 93 as is?

Thanks!

 

I think it will be fine.

 

If you’re talking more retarded than straight up, then no. It’s already ground with a wide lsa which gives it a fairly late int valve closing.

it’s got 284 adv int so it’s ramps aren’t that fast.

what tappet lift are you using to calculate your dynamic comp and is it the same as the cam spec card?

 

Based on advertised duration of 284 and intake lobe center on the cam card specifying 108 and 112 LSA which I calculated to Intake valve closing (0 lift) at 70 after bottom dead center.

 

I got the heads done and ready to go on the engine after I get a trans back together and the current iteration torn down.

 

284 isn’t zero lift..that’s why I asked. To use any dynamic calculator you need the actual zero lift number which usually takes measuring it in the engine. Most manufacturers won’t give it.

that 284 advertised is probably at .006” tappet lift, which means the valve is still off the seat. Crower doesn’t specify on the cam card where it’s taken at…either way , it’s not zero lift

the valve can’t be off the seat at all to determine dynamic compression. stay away from using them, they are nothing but bs. not only that, there are all kinds of internet experts who have all different suggestions on what the max dynamic should be on a street pump gas engine…when asked why, they have no idea why.

all engines react differently to the trapped charge.

 

Hey thanks for the reply. I get what you mean about advertised duration not being at zero lift and that what i have right now is a ballpark estimate. I'll check actual intake valve closing ABDC when I get the cam installed and confirm but like you said, there seem to be multiple opinions on dynamic compression ratio and the true test will be in the spring when it's driving on the road.

I've built several engines but this will have the highest static compression ratio of them all so I wanted solicit folks feedback while I waited for the weather to get crappy and driving season to end.

Anyway, appreciate the discussion.

 

Well, it's together and the plan is to test fire tomorrow. When I checked, the cam was 3.5° retarded from the cam card so I advanced it 2° since I'm hoping the porting I did on the heads will let it breath. I also had to take about 0.080" off the ends of the bottom of the intake to keep it from resting directly on the china walls.

This whole build is really just an experiment for fun to see if I can make my wagon faster with some time and ingenuity. Doing my own machine work and porting on the heads plus the valve job and melting and pouring pistons into the crossovers in my home shop was the fun part, if it runs decent that will be icing on the cake.

 

That's cool, man. Good vibes sent for fire up

 

Looks good too ! What red did you use ? I've bought a Chrysler red for my '68 455, but haven't used any yet.

 

Rustoleum Sunrise Red

 

 

Looks good. After you break it in, do a compression test and idle vac read

 

Is there supposed to be some sort of flange on the header collectors?

 

Id be interested in knowing how well that holds up.

For the purists in readerland: how close does this Rustoleum paint match the factory red?

I used VHT Chrysler red on my engine several years ago, it needs some touch up work.

 

Thanks!

 

Yes, they have v-bands on them. They're the best thing ever for maintenance of the trans etc being able to drop the exhaust system in 2 min flat. They also seal really well.

 

Me too! Last time I used VHT spray paint and it held up pretty well. This time I wanted to brush it on and Rustoleum seems to hold up on my tractor etc. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not but this car is a never ending project and I can have the whole drivetrain out in under 2 hours at this point so if I have to pull it to repaint eventually, I will.

 

Yep definitely curious what cranking pressure is and idle vac and cruise vac are both important for adjusting idle mixture, power valve opening, and vac advance. I'll be happy if it's over 13 inches at idle.

 

Well, all in all it seems like a great success, I filled the carb bowls and set the timing and it fired right up. I ran it for 15 to 20 min above 2500 rpm and got it all up to temp with no issues. Afterwards it settled down happily into a 700rpm idle at 15 in vac.

Thanks for the comments and well wishes guys, here are some fun pictures we took with the thermal camera.


Thermal image of header during engine break in. 455 10.5:1, ported Ka heads.

Top of 455 during break in.

 

And here's a pic of where the engine lives in the summer months.


1982 Custom Cruiser

 

I'd be tempted to not idle much, if any, for a bit. If you've let it cool completely then another ten to fifteen minute (Max) break-in could only help the cam & lifters, but the ring mfgrs all say to drive it immediately to load the rings and seat them (but it's your only narrow window of opportunity for cam/lifter marriage).

 

Nice even temps it seems, that guys arm is 412* tho' !!

 

that 15 will probably drop and inch or two in gear if you have a tight converter.

what’s the cranking psi?

 

Yeah for sure it will. I didn't idle it long enough to actually set the idle mixture or see what initial timing gave me the best vacuum yet so it could be higher once I get it in the car. The converter is not tight, with the old combo it was flashing over 3000 rpm so I'm not too worried there.

Went to check cranking PSI and the dang gauge broke! I guess that's what I get for buying a cheapie. I'm going to pick up a new gauge and check it.

 

175 psi

 

well there ya go…it’s good you didn’t retard it.

You could have went with a little more advance. What altitude are you at?

 

Yep, good point. 800 feet or so

 

I wanted to post a quick update for anyone interested. The engine is in the car and seems to be running really well and it pulls hard all the way to 6000 rpm. I don't intend to rev it that high regularly with a stock bottom end but I am happy that with the cam and my home brewed head work that it's still pulling hard up there because with the XE262 cam and J heads, it fell on it's face above 4500. I built up my own 200-4r to go behind it and I am really happy with that too. Hope everyone is having fun out there.

Here's a pic of my at home head work, these were untouched Ka heads.

Home brew Ka heads.