Thoughts on this build?
#1
Thoughts on this build?
This is the engine I'm putting together for my wagon. Do you see any glaring issues?
The parts are already in hand so I am not looking for suggestions there, just curious if anything stands out.
Numbers used are measured distances and volumes.
The heads are Ka heads with 2.07 and 1.68 valves and porting and combustion chamber clean up done by me.
The parts are already in hand so I am not looking for suggestions there, just curious if anything stands out.
Numbers used are measured distances and volumes.
The heads are Ka heads with 2.07 and 1.68 valves and porting and combustion chamber clean up done by me.
Last edited by CustomBruiser; October 23rd, 2023 at 05:34 AM. Reason: More info
#2
Pretty high static C/R depending upon your application. Also, you shall have to check carefully the fit of the intake manifold with all the stock that was removed from the heads and deck surface of the block.
#4
#7
Depending on the fuel availability I think you are going to be right on the edge as far as compression goes. Cam should be ok with the cubic inches you have. Crower shows it for a 455 so you are right there Should be an interesting build.
#8
Yeah, I am expecting to have to run 93 which fortunately is readily available in MI.
#9
This is the current build in the car with very mildly ported J heads that runs pretty well (15.02 in the 1/4 in the wagon). It pulls really well in the midrange but runs out of breath above 4500 rpm.
What kind of improvement in power would you expect with the new cam/heads? Wild speculation?
What kind of improvement in power would you expect with the new cam/heads? Wild speculation?
#11
Current engine:
Mildly ported J heads ~9:1 measured
Comp XE262, 218/224 at .050, 0.475,0.480 lift 110 lsa
Holley 3310-1 780cfm
Torker 455 intake
Long tube headers
Updated Build:
Ka heads, 2.07/1.68 valves, ported 10.5:1 measured
Crower 229/236 @ 0.050, 0.520/0.528 lift 112 lsa
Same carb and intake although I think a bigger carb might be in order?
Mildly ported J heads ~9:1 measured
Comp XE262, 218/224 at .050, 0.475,0.480 lift 110 lsa
Holley 3310-1 780cfm
Torker 455 intake
Long tube headers
Updated Build:
Ka heads, 2.07/1.68 valves, ported 10.5:1 measured
Crower 229/236 @ 0.050, 0.520/0.528 lift 112 lsa
Same carb and intake although I think a bigger carb might be in order?
#14
it’s got 284 adv int so it’s ramps aren’t that fast.
what tappet lift are you using to calculate your dynamic comp and is it the same as the cam spec card?
#15
If you’re talking more retarded than straight up, then no. It’s already ground with a wide lsa which gives it a fairly late int valve closing.
it’s got 284 adv int so it’s ramps aren’t that fast.
what tappet lift are you using to calculate your dynamic comp and is it the same as the cam spec card?
it’s got 284 adv int so it’s ramps aren’t that fast.
what tappet lift are you using to calculate your dynamic comp and is it the same as the cam spec card?
#16
I got the heads done and ready to go on the engine after I get a trans back together and the current iteration torn down.
Last edited by CustomBruiser; November 8th, 2023 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Add photo
#17
that 284 advertised is probably at .006” tappet lift, which means the valve is still off the seat. Crower doesn’t specify on the cam card where it’s taken at…either way , it’s not zero lift
the valve can’t be off the seat at all to determine dynamic compression. stay away from using them, they are nothing but bs. not only that, there are all kinds of internet experts who have all different suggestions on what the max dynamic should be on a street pump gas engine…when asked why, they have no idea why.
all engines react differently to the trapped charge.
#18
284 isn’t zero lift..that’s why I asked. To use any dynamic calculator you need the actual zero lift number which usually takes measuring it in the engine. Most manufacturers won’t give it.
that 284 advertised is probably at .006” tappet lift, which means the valve is still off the seat. Crower doesn’t specify on the cam card where it’s taken at…either way , it’s not zero lift
the valve can’t be off the seat at all to determine dynamic compression. stay away from using them, they are nothing but bs. not only that, there are all kinds of internet experts who have all different suggestions on what the max dynamic should be on a street pump gas engine…when asked why, they have no idea why.
all engines react differently to the trapped charge.
that 284 advertised is probably at .006” tappet lift, which means the valve is still off the seat. Crower doesn’t specify on the cam card where it’s taken at…either way , it’s not zero lift
the valve can’t be off the seat at all to determine dynamic compression. stay away from using them, they are nothing but bs. not only that, there are all kinds of internet experts who have all different suggestions on what the max dynamic should be on a street pump gas engine…when asked why, they have no idea why.
all engines react differently to the trapped charge.
I've built several engines but this will have the highest static compression ratio of them all so I wanted solicit folks feedback while I waited for the weather to get crappy and driving season to end.
Anyway, appreciate the discussion.
#19
Well, it's together and the plan is to test fire tomorrow. When I checked, the cam was 3.5° retarded from the cam card so I advanced it 2° since I'm hoping the porting I did on the heads will let it breath. I also had to take about 0.080" off the ends of the bottom of the intake to keep it from resting directly on the china walls.
This whole build is really just an experiment for fun to see if I can make my wagon faster with some time and ingenuity. Doing my own machine work and porting on the heads plus the valve job and melting and pouring pistons into the crossovers in my home shop was the fun part, if it runs decent that will be icing on the cake.
This whole build is really just an experiment for fun to see if I can make my wagon faster with some time and ingenuity. Doing my own machine work and porting on the heads plus the valve job and melting and pouring pistons into the crossovers in my home shop was the fun part, if it runs decent that will be icing on the cake.
Last edited by CustomBruiser; December 1st, 2023 at 05:27 AM. Reason: Add Photo
#26
#28
#29
Me too! Last time I used VHT spray paint and it held up pretty well. This time I wanted to brush it on and Rustoleum seems to hold up on my tractor etc. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not but this car is a never ending project and I can have the whole drivetrain out in under 2 hours at this point so if I have to pull it to repaint eventually, I will.
#30
Yep definitely curious what cranking pressure is and idle vac and cruise vac are both important for adjusting idle mixture, power valve opening, and vac advance. I'll be happy if it's over 13 inches at idle.
#31
Well, all in all it seems like a great success, I filled the carb bowls and set the timing and it fired right up. I ran it for 15 to 20 min above 2500 rpm and got it all up to temp with no issues. Afterwards it settled down happily into a 700rpm idle at 15 in vac.
Thanks for the comments and well wishes guys, here are some fun pictures we took with the thermal camera.
Thermal image of header during engine break in. 455 10.5:1, ported Ka heads.
Top of 455 during break in.
Thanks for the comments and well wishes guys, here are some fun pictures we took with the thermal camera.
Thermal image of header during engine break in. 455 10.5:1, ported Ka heads.
Top of 455 during break in.
#33
I'd be tempted to not idle much, if any, for a bit. If you've let it cool completely then another ten to fifteen minute (Max) break-in could only help the cam & lifters, but the ring mfgrs all say to drive it immediately to load the rings and seat them (but it's your only narrow window of opportunity for cam/lifter marriage).
#35
Well, all in all it seems like a great success, I filled the carb bowls and set the timing and it fired right up. I ran it for 15 to 20 min above 2500 rpm and got it all up to temp with no issues. Afterwards it settled down happily into a 700rpm idle at 15 in vac.
Thanks for the comments and well wishes guys, here are some fun pictures we took with the thermal camera.
Thermal image of header during engine break in. 455 10.5:1, ported Ka heads.
Top of 455 during break in.
Thanks for the comments and well wishes guys, here are some fun pictures we took with the thermal camera.
Thermal image of header during engine break in. 455 10.5:1, ported Ka heads.
Top of 455 during break in.
what’s the cranking psi?
#36
Went to check cranking PSI and the dang gauge broke! I guess that's what I get for buying a cheapie. I'm going to pick up a new gauge and check it.
#38
#40
I wanted to post a quick update for anyone interested. The engine is in the car and seems to be running really well and it pulls hard all the way to 6000 rpm. I don't intend to rev it that high regularly with a stock bottom end but I am happy that with the cam and my home brewed head work that it's still pulling hard up there because with the XE262 cam and J heads, it fell on it's face above 4500. I built up my own 200-4r to go behind it and I am really happy with that too. Hope everyone is having fun out there.
Here's a pic of my at home head work, these were untouched Ka heads.
Home brew Ka heads.
Here's a pic of my at home head work, these were untouched Ka heads.
Home brew Ka heads.
Last edited by CustomBruiser; April 5th, 2024 at 11:44 AM. Reason: Add photo
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