Tom442

I’ve been reading through old posts about the Toro trays. Olds engineers put em in, wondering why they weren’t used in other bb’s? I have a deep Milodan pan I am going to use... should I keep these in? Use the two pair stud/main bolts and the new ARP main bolts on the rest of the caps? Would they clamp and hold as well as the new bolts?

joe_padavano

That baffle in the Toro pan isn't so much a windage tray as just a baffle to control oil flow. The goofy Toro pan has plenty of oil control problems. FYI, the factory BBO pans have a similar baffle already welded into the pan itself. A real windage tray is useful in applications where you are looking to get every last HP to the rear wheels.

Here's the baffle in every BBO factory pan






Here's a Toro pan. Note the "dam" that blocks oil return to the sump. Also the scraper on the side of the pan that is a band-aid attempt to divert some oil around that hump. Those bolt-on baffles in your first photo are replacements for the one welded into the BBO pan.

Duh

Yes. The little rear tray actually works. If you look at the stock standard pan it's only a baffle, it's main function is to stop oil from sloshing forward. It does not isolate the entire sump from windage. The small rear tray protects most of the sump from the crank. As long as it doesn't interfere with a baffle in the pan use it. The front baffle is only needed when using a Toro oil pan. It's job is to stop oil trapped in the front of the pan from sloshing forward. If you have the toro pan you can take the axle hump out (cut and weld) and it works well if on a budget. The pan pictured below is modified by using a piece of exhaust pipe for the drain back. It's used on a SBO making 1.2+ HP per ci. with iron SB heads and QJ.

Run to Rund

I have used Toto pans but modify them with flattening the hump and welding in sump baffles.