Running a little warm

Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:18 AM
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Running a little warm

I just switched to 3:42's and am running a little warm on my 69 442. It has a 73 455 with the stock 69 rad. I plan on flushing the cooling system and changing the thermostat in an attempt to alleviate. It especially starts to get hot while idling after being on the highway. I realize it's not all gear related but was wondering if there is such a thing as an overdrive water pump pulley and where can it be sourced?

Thanks!
Old Apr 11, 2016 | 11:20 AM
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The only real answer is upgrade to the new style aluminum replacement radiators you can find on Ebay many brands and not too expensive usually under $200 , they cool better than a new brass four core. Being your in BC you will probably want a 180 T stat versus down here in TX I would use a 160. If you have a factory A/C car style fan shroud and clutch fan that is about all you will ever need. Put a new fan clutch from Rock Auto as well.
Old Apr 11, 2016 | 11:43 AM
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What temp is a little warm?
Old Apr 11, 2016 | 03:12 PM
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I'm with Old cutlass what temp is a little warm, do you have a 2 row or 3 row core? A different water pump pulley won't help .

Eric
Old Apr 11, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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It's running around 200 and will go higher if I idle too long. I was running the defroster to keep cooler in a border lineup. The rad is original I believe, marked IA FB CA46. It has a 6 blade fixed fan. I will be upgrading to a high compression engine in the near future. Anyone got a part number for a new aluminum fan that will "bolt right in"? Thanks.
Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RROLDSX
It's running around 200 and will go higher if I idle too long. I was running the defroster to keep cooler in a border lineup. The rad is original I believe, marked IA FB CA46. It has a 6 blade fixed fan. I will be upgrading to a high compression engine in the near future. Anyone got a part number for a new aluminum rad that will "bolt right in"? Thanks.
Also, if I switch from my current fan setup to a clutch fan what will I need to change? Shroud, fan and water pump?
Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:40 AM
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200 doesnt seem out of the norm. I usually run between 190-200 with an occasional spike to 205-210 before cycling again.
Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:44 AM
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http://www.championradiators.com/Old...ator-1966-1977 I've used champion radiators in the past and they seem to be pretty good quality.
Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Cman7713
200 doesnt seem out of the norm. I usually run between 190-200 with an occasional spike to 205-210 before cycling again.
Thanks for the response Cman but it was a cool day and it still wanted to climb. I'd like to get it cooler in prep for the warm days and high compression motor.
Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Cman7713
http://www.championradiators.com/Old...ator-1966-1977 I've used champion radiators in the past and they seem to be pretty good quality.
Thanks, I will definitely consider that when I finally order. Once I determine any shroud and new fan setup requirements.
Old Apr 12, 2016 | 10:04 AM
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Your thermostat determines your minimum operating temp. Extended idling will result in increased engine temps. Other factors are the overall condition of the cooling system and current state of tune. All need to be checked to determine what changes may be required.
Old Apr 13, 2016 | 07:10 PM
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I wasn't impressed with my Champion 3 core in my G body, which is a narrower rad, cooling wise. My 403 ran between 195-215 depending on outside temp.Quality was good otherwise. I actually put my 2 core back in with slight leak because it cooled better. Here is a USA made rad with big dual cores. $100 more with an internal cooler.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/gri-8-00008#
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 10:00 AM
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if you have no shroud, a properly set up one can make a big difference.
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
if you have no shroud, a properly set up one can make a big difference.
Thanks Retro, I do have the factory shroud in place. It appears I only have a 2 row rad with a 6 bladed fixed fan.
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 02:05 PM
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If your installing a high compression engine the 2 row rad likely wouldn't be enough to cool it.
If your just going to drive it until the new engine is ready, you could drain some coolant out just slightly below the trans cooler run it for about 15 min and see if you have decent flow through the tubes.
Also while its drained a bit see if you have hard water build up around the tubes, this could slow the flow rate down considerably.
Have a look at the fins, any loose missing full of bugs etc.
The flow you see after running for the 15 min will also tell you if you have a water pump problem as well.
A rad flush may help .

I hope this helps
Eric
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 04:04 PM
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suggestion

Randy


You wont be experiencing any freezing temps in Delta in the next 6 months. Drain the rad down & the block. Switch the car over to distilled water & 2 bottles of Redline water wetter. I bet you will run 20 deg cooler.

Dave
Old Apr 14, 2016 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oldsmobiledave
Randy


You wont be experiencing any freezing temps in Delta in the next 6 months. Drain the rad down & the block. Switch the car over to distilled water & 2 bottles of Redline water wetter. I bet you will run 20 deg cooler.

Dave
Sounds good to get me through for awhile but I'm still going to have to change my setup so I'm still contemplating which rad and fan to use. I'd like whatever I choose to look somewhat stock but cool like a Motha.
Old Apr 15, 2016 | 05:50 AM
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later

Originally Posted by RROLDSX
Sounds good to get me through for awhile but I'm still going to have to change my setup so I'm still contemplating which rad and fan to use. I'd like whatever I choose to look somewhat stock but cool like a Motha.
Do the H2O & water wetter fix for now. When you swap engines reinstall your original rad but have it re-cored with a high efficiency 3 row set up. Reinstall with your shroud & a new clutch fan. This should handle most cooling issues in your climate.


Also when the engine is out I would swap out the heater core if you have not already done so.
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